November 24, 1870. ] 



JODBKAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



417 



growth than the green-leaved. We would try Hedera rhombcea variegata, 

 and argenten major, two of the most free-growiag variegated sorts. The 

 New Silver-striped iP, however, one of the finest. We should plant the 

 Irish Ivy and Rsegner's Ivy (H. Raigeeriana), the finest of all the green- 

 leaved sorts. 



Roses in Pots (G. B.). — The Roses having been potted in spring we 

 would not now Bhake them out and repot them, but we would see that 

 the drainage was good, making it 60 if it did not prove sat i --factory. 

 Then remove the surface soil down to the roots, aHd replace it with fresh 

 rich compost. The Vines i» pots, not of a size fit for fruiting, we would 

 at once cut down, shake out, and place in pots sufficiently large to hold 

 the roots without cramping. Of course, you will shift the Vines into 

 larger pots when they have started into free growth, giving the fruiting 

 size by May. 



Briars for Rose Stocks (Mareehal Niel).— The Briar for budding 

 is not the Sweet Briar, but the Dog- Rose Briar. Select out of the hedges 

 stems with clean, healthy hark and firm spines. Take them up carefully 

 with a mattock, and cut the jagged ends of the roots to a uniform radius. 

 Cut off all the branches, and head the Briar back to the required height. 

 They should not be, except for pendulous or drooping trees, more than 

 3 feet high, as if the sort budded should grow well yDU cannot see the 

 blooms without pulling the twig down. Eighteen inches or 2 feet I think 

 the best height. If the sort budded do not grow well, one of two things 

 will happen— either tho Rose will deteriorate the Briar, or the Briar will 

 deteriorate the Rose. Briars with bad growers on them are soon covered 

 with Lichens or Moss. A wash of fresh-slaked lime and a little salt dis- 

 solved in water is the best cure for this. After planting the stocks mulch 

 them, and keep them mulched next summer, and well water the roots 

 two or toree days before budding, also occasionally afterwards. After 

 budding the Briar, tie a leaf over the bnd for a day or so. Nurserymen 

 do not uBually sell Manetti cuttings. — W. F. Radclyffe. 



Rose Cuttings (Capt. G.).— Some of tho hardiest Hybrid Perpetuate 

 will strike from cuttings taken off tho tree and put into the open ground 

 in November, but it requires a favourable soil aud situation. The wood 

 should be well ripened, and with a heel to it — i.e., a side shoot of the 

 current year's growth taken with a piece of the brunch from which it 

 sprang. The soil must not bo too heavy, and the rows where the cut- 

 tings are planted should not be exposed to the full sun. The per-centage, 

 however, of failure is in m jBt places very great, and far more satisfactory 

 results can be obtained by taking off cuttings in August aud September, 

 and striking them in an old spent hotbed or Cucumber frame, putting a 

 layer of fresh soil with a little sharp sand at the top, and keeping the 

 frame shaded and close at first. Protect in winter, and allow the 

 cuttings to remain till spring, when they can either be potted off or 

 planted out in nursery rows. Cuttings will also strike in pots in a cold 

 frame with proper attention to shading and watering. Roses can like- 

 wise be obtained on their own roots by layering, where they are grown 

 as dwarfs ou the Manetti. 



Select Roses— Transplanting Them (Scotus).—! do not know why 

 Coupe d'Hebe was called tho " Queen'B Rose." The thirteen Roses which 

 you gave your friend are a good collection. As you wish to give another 

 dozen or so I name Madame Victor Verdier, brilliaut red ; Pierre Notting, 

 purple red ; William Griffiths, salmon rose ; Madame Clemence Joigneaux, 

 deep rose ; Marie Rady, carmine crimson ; Felix Genero, reddish rose in 

 the centre, with 6ilvery lilaceous reverse to the petals ; Dr. Andry, bril- 

 liant red; Maurice Bernardin, doep vermilion red; Abel Grand, silvery 

 rose; Due de Cazes, crimson purple; Victor Verdier, warm rose; Tri- 

 omphe de Rennes, canary or golden yellow; Jules Margottin, cerise. I 

 add two rather new Roses, both good growers on the Manetti (as, indeed, 

 all the above are), which gave me great satisfaction last season: they 

 are Edouard Morren, deep rose, and Souvenir de M. Poitoau, soft rose. 

 As long as Roses do well I do not move them. If they do not flower, 

 or if they produce long blind wood, root-prune or remove them. If you 

 remove them to your semicircular mound, put the tallest in the centre, 

 and graduate the others. Iu some &oils Manetti-stocked Roses require to 

 be moved biennially, or tbey do not bloom well in the autumn. At once 

 remove what you mean to move, mulch them over the roots, and draw 

 the earth over the mulching lilte a molehill. Mine are served so evory 

 winter. I lost only one Rose last winter and one this trying summer, out 

 oi 2000- I kept on two watercrs for ten weeks, or I should have lost, as 

 others have done, hundreds of my Roses. Yon can train your vigorous 

 Charles Lefebvre as a pole Rose. Do not cut away altogether the lower 

 portion; shorten the main stem one-third. Charles Lefebvre breaks 

 chiefly from the top of the shoot ; you must therefore encourage the 

 wood that is now at the base of the plant. If you have no low furniture 

 you had better cut the Rose down to within 12* inches of the base. The 

 best two dark Hybrid Perpetuala for pole Roses are Empereur de Maroc 

 and Pierre Notting. — W. F. Radclyffe. 



Willow with Curled Leaves. — *' Several years since I had in my 

 garden a species of drooping Willow, in growth and size like the com- 

 mon Weeping Willow. It had, however, a peculiarity in regard to the 

 leaf, the upper surface of which was of a beautiful shining dark green B 

 the under surface being covered with a short, white, fine cottony down. 

 These leaves were dependent, and each made two or three spiral turns, 

 thus showing alternately a varnished green surface and a downy light 

 one. This tree I possessed many years, but an early frost entangled in 

 it the spray of a fountain beneath while my tree was in full foliage, thus 

 loading the Willow with thousands of icicles, the weight of which split 

 th© tree in quarters, and utterly destroyed it. I should like to know 

 something more of this species of Willow; perhaps Eoroe of your many 

 readers ccuid give me a few words of information. I should also be very 

 glad to become a purchaser of a young plant, and so repair my loss. — 

 C Bailey, The Clift, Chippenham." [We think that the Willow was 

 Salix babylonica, var. crispa. It is described, and the leaves figured, in 

 Loudon's " Encyclopaedia of Trees and Shrubs," and in Forbes's " Salix 

 Woburnensis.' ] 



House Sewage {E. B.).— Mix the sewage with the soapsuds. Pipes 

 would convey the mixture to any part of the garden, as there is a con- 

 siderable fall. A tank to which a vulcanised Indlanrubber hose could be 

 attached would probably be available. 



Hot Water not Circulating in Pipes (J. S. Milton).— For anything 

 we can perceive to the contrary, the feeding cistern to your boiler is all 

 right, and so is the flow- pipe attached to the top of your boiler ; but that 

 ia of but little importance compared with having an air pipe at that 



corner where you have marked the rise of tho pipe as being 3 inches from 

 the boiler, and the rest of the pipe on a level, until coming near the 

 boiler it drops 2 feet. The first thing, therefore, to do, is to drill a hole 

 at the highest point of your pipe, and fix there a gas pipe from one 

 quarter to three-eighths of an inch In diameter, leaving the upper end 

 open, and 2 or 8 feet higher than the supply cistern, and with the end 

 beat over and downwards. This will be your great safety valve. But, 

 secondly, in such a small house.it is easy to make the water very hot, 

 and there must be room for expansion. Careful firing i3, therefore, ne- 

 cessary, so as not to give the water too much heat. Wa would rather 

 have more piping in a house than have limited piping over hot. You will 

 do no good without the air-pipe. If the top end go outside the house all 

 the better. 



Fixing Hot-water Pipes (A Con»tant Reader).— On the whole, per- 

 haps, there is no plan better than flllincr the joints with iron filings and 

 salts of ammonia. If filled too tight and full the joints are apt to crack. 

 If a base of tow or lint is used we quostion if anything is much better 

 than red or white lead. With a similar base at the socket of the joint, 

 we are sure that Portland cement will ausw*r well if properly put on, 

 where there is no extra heat nor pressure. We think you will find they 

 will answer in your greenhouse. The pipes in most, if not all, the forc- 

 ing houses at Woodhall, were jointed by Mr. Beales with such cement, 

 and no pipe3 could be sounder nor stand better. 



Hot-water Pipes for Vinery (Vitis).— Wo see nothing to prevent 

 the proposed plan answering, only to have Grapes ripe in May we would 

 not be satisfied with less than four 3-inch pipes — two as flows along the 

 front, round the further end, and then as returns along the back. We 

 would prefer the flows to go along the front as yon propose, and the 

 returns at the top of the raised border at back, instead of the bottom of 

 the passage. See answers to a correspondent about having the pipes 

 near the aoil. an advantage in your case, also as to air pipes at the highest 

 point of the pipes. 



Hot-water Pipes on Vine Border (T.H.D.). — We see no incon- 

 venience in having your heating pipes merely the thickness of a brick 

 above the inside Vino border. They would not heat the soil too much. 

 Tbey will tend to dry it, it is trne, but all the better for the border filled 

 with roots, as then you ean water the oftener with weak clear manure 

 water. If you would rather lesson heat in your border, and as a conse- 

 quence lessen evaporation from it, place a thin board below the pipes, 

 or common slates, painted white on the exposed surface. Were we in 

 your case, however, we would let well alone, and just use a little more 

 water than would otherwise bo necessary. 



Destroying Worms on Lawn (G.S.I.). — As you have tried lime water 

 it is useless for us to advise that, though we think you have applied it 

 much too weak. 12 lbs. of slacked lime to 30 gallons of water stirred well 

 up and allowed to stand two days, and the clear liquid applied to the 

 lawn in moist weather, the lawn boing well rolled the previous evening* 

 will mostly prove effectual. Ammoniaca! liquor from the gasworks diluted 

 with six times its volume of water will also destroy them, but has the dis- 

 advantage of making the lawn look rather bare for a time afterwards. 



Names of Fruits (Cambria).— Cox's Orange Pippin. (K. Harpur).— 

 Emperor Alexander. (J. H.).—l, Passp Colmar; 2, Red Doyenne. (A 

 Subscriber),— 1, JoBephine de Malines ; 2, Vicar of Winkfield ; 3, Triomphe 

 deJodoigoe; 4, Vicar of Winkfield; 6, Doyenne Boussoch; 7, Van Mons 

 Leon Leclerc ; 8, Chaumontel. 



Names of Plants (Gambetta).-l. Selaginella apns ; S. Braunii (the 

 S pubescons or S. Willdtmovii of g-irdens) ; 3, S. Kraussiana (S- hortensis). 

 (E. Emery).— Tecome radicans. (E. S. &).— 1 ; , Polystichum angnlare ; 

 2, Cystopteris fragilis; 8, C. fragilis, var. dentata ; 4, Athyrium Filix- 

 fcemina. (M. R.).~ 1, Lastrea spinulosa ; 2, L. dilitata ; 3, Adiantum his- 

 pidulnm ; 4, Nephrodium molle ; 5, Pteris longifolia. (St. Eenox). — Euo- 

 nymus europseus, the common Spindle tree or Prick-wood, so calledl 

 because skewers are made of it. 



POULTRY, BEE. AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. 



THIS SEASON'S MOULT— PREVENTING 

 PULLETS FROM LAYING. 



My experience with regard to the moulting of my birds has 

 this year been rather peculiar, several of them, both old and 

 young, having moulted twice over. One or two Brahma hens, 

 which moulted very well and quickly rather early in the autumn, 

 are now in the midst of a second and much more lingering 

 renovation, while nearly all show more or less signs of it. One 

 or two have suffered severely, not from any complaint, but 

 having lost many pounds in weight through the drain upon tho 

 system, they became almost like skeletons, a rather fine hen 

 being at one time reduced to little more than 4 lbs. weight. 

 Others, again, appear to have only gone through the usual pro- 

 cess in an average manner ; but these are chiefly hens which 

 commenced late in the year. 



Chickens, as is well known, do not experience a regular 

 " moult " the first year, but the chicken feathers are gradnally 

 and imperceptibly exchanged for the adult plumage. This 

 autumn, however, several, both of my pullets and cockerels, 

 after nearly completing this normal process, are now in the 

 midst of a regular moult, which entirely spoils them for show- 

 ing. I have often found such a thing occur with early pullets 

 which have become broody ; but none of my birds were hatched 

 before April 9th, and except ane, which I sold sometime since, 

 not one has yet laid an egg. The best marked pullet I have, 

 hatched in the middle of April, was in full plumage a month 



