December 22, 1870. ] 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



495 



indeed, it seems to be their natural " habitat." It is interest- 

 ing to the naturalist to watch the great numbers of the "pied 

 finch " which feed upon the nuts when they fall upon the 

 ground. Alas! it ia equally to be regretted, that in this district, 

 where the thrush and blackbird abounded so muoh as first to 

 attract me favourably to the looality a few years ago, scaroely a 

 bird exists to welcome in the approaching spring. Surely 

 something might be done to stay the wanton destruction of 

 our British birds. — Hortator. 



IRON GRATINGS FOR BOTTOMS OF 

 MUSHROOM BEDS. 



Have any of your readers ever used iron gratings for the 

 bottoms of Mushroom beds ? I saw them in use some ten 

 years ago at Harding-atone, at the residence of the late Mr. 

 W. H. Barwell, iron-founder, of Northampton. The gratings 

 were of cast iron, made to the width required, and were used 

 for the bottoms of the beds instead of boards. In making up 

 the beds turf was first placed on the grating grass side down- 

 wards, and the beds were filled up with droppings and spawned 

 in the usual way; the result was that as many Mushrooms 

 came through the grating at the bottom as on the top of the 

 bed, thus giving a double orop. When I saw them the bed was 

 completely covered, top and bottom, with Mushrooms of all sizes, 

 some of them 6 or 7 inches in diameter. The spawn used was 

 taken from a hovel on the premises whioh had been used by 

 cows and horses in the winter and spring before, and as the 

 material was undisturbed all the summer it was found in the 

 autumn to be a whole mass of spawn. — H. Harris, Gardener, 

 Naseby Woolleys. 



[We have met with such Mushroom-bed bottoms, and doing 

 well. We know of no objection except the rusting of the iron. 

 That could be avoided by placing the pieces of grating in a 

 galvanising trough, but we are not aware how long the galvan- 

 ising would stand the steam from the dung. We should have 

 no objection to such a house being all iron inside. When wood 

 is used we prefer the bottom of the beds to be sparred instead 

 of close, as in the former case they are more easily influenced 

 by the heat from the bed beneath. We have frequently thus 

 had double crops, but in shallow beds we thought the crop on 

 the upper surfaoe was sooner exhausted.] 



PORTRAIT OF MR. RIVERS. 



The following additional subscriptions have been received : — 



£ s. d. 



Hanbury, Robert, Esq., The Poles, Ware 2 2 



Matheson, Sir James, Stornoway Castle 2 2 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN 



In most gardens in the country leaves can be collected, and 

 when properly managed they form, perhaps, fhe most useful 

 source of bottom heat with which we are acquainted, except, of 

 course, the tank. All the leaves necessary for carrying on the 

 business of the ensuing year should be collected as early as 

 possible in the autumn, and be placed close together to ferment. 

 After fermenting for three weeks or a month they are in excel- 

 lent order for use ; in this state they will both heat with more 

 certainty and tread more closely. In order to be ready for 

 forcing of all kinds, to form powerful linings, or to build new 

 beds, it is necessary to have at hand a mixture of hot dung and 

 leaves. In the course of this month, therefore, the whole of 

 the hot dung should be drawn from the stable yard to the leaf 

 yard, and immediately thrown together and well watered in 

 order to dispel the fiery heat. When fermented thus for a week 

 or so, it may be mixed with leaves. About four parts of the 

 leaves to one part of hot manure will make a powerful and 

 enduring mixture, and in most cases provide a bulk of material 

 which will carry on all the hotbed and lining work for two 

 months to come. Thus provided, a gardener can make up a 

 frame or pit at any time, or furnish new linings, at a couple of 

 hours' notice ; for if the dung has had one powerful heating 

 previous to its being mixed with the leaves, little danger need 

 be apprehended from impure vapours, provided the most ordi- 

 nary precautions be observed. The wet weather we have ex- 

 perienced will, in some situations, have greatly retarded much 

 that would otherwise have been done ; it is therefore necessary 



to forward all that can be done within-doors, so that there will 

 be no hindrance to out-door work when the weather becomes 

 fine. There are numerous operations which can be performed 

 by labourers within-doors, and which, if not immediately neces- 

 sary, may at some time reduce labour when most wanted 

 The making of labels, brooms, flower- sticks, shreds, &o., is 

 usually done in bad weather, also the cleaving of wood. Take 

 advantage of a dry day to lay tiles over some of the Endive in 

 the open ground ; take up a portion of the best, and lay it in ft 

 frame or shed as a reserve in case of severe frost. In favour- 

 able situations, where neither forcing-houses nor pits are at 

 command, another sowing of Peas and Beans may be made, 

 but where a common frame can be spared till March it is far 

 preferable to sow in pots. Radishes sown in frames must have 

 air as soon as they make their appearance, if the weather 

 permit. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 

 Proceed with pruning and nailing as opportunity offers. 

 Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, Gooseberries, Currants, Rasp- 

 berries, and Grape Vines should all be proceeded with. All 

 spare nails should now be drawn from the Peaches, Nectarines,. 

 and Apricots. They should be sorted, dried, and cleaned ready 

 for immediate use. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



Go on according to the advice of last week. Take the first 

 opportunity, when fine weather sets in, of carefully looking 

 over Carnation layers that are in frames. It is possible that 

 soil may have settled in the axils of the leaves ; as this retains 

 moisture in a very inconvenient degree, it is highly necessary 

 for the health of the plants that it should be removed. With 

 respect to Ranunculuses, lose no time in making purchases, 

 and take care during this rather variable weather that the roots 

 do not contract mouldiness, whioh is fatal to them. In con- 

 cluding my directions for the present year I would counsel all 

 cultivators of florists' flowers, and especially those who are 

 about commencing, always to bear in mind that quality is pre- 

 ferable to quantity, and that it is the best policy to purchase 

 good strains and good Borts. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



Keep as moderate a temperature as possible when the Ca- 

 mellias are in bloom, in order to prolong their, season. Drip 

 is generally found inconvenient during a frost, and it may be 

 advisable to withhold water altogether for a few days ; or cover 

 the roof with a canvas screen, which, by preventing condensa- 

 tion through a low roof temperature, will accomplish the object 

 more effectually. The conservatory should now be very gay, 

 and, if former directions have been attended to, some of the 

 finer kinds of Azalea indiea will be developing their charms 

 — suoh as Exquisita, Coronata, Carminata, Variegata, Late- 

 ritia, and Gledstanesi ; with these there may be a few Ixoras, 

 Allamandas, and some other stove plants, several kinds of 

 Chorozemas, Boronia pinnata, Styphelia tubiflora, a few kinds 

 of Heaths and Epacrises, and some minor softwooded plants. 

 In the greenhouse look well to plants in a growing state, such 

 as Lesehenanltias, Pimeleas, &o. Remove the bloom as fast 

 as it appears ; but those plants of the former which are intended 

 for early blooming must not have their flowers removed after 

 the first week in January. 



STOVE. 



Here all is still and quiet. Keep no a moderate heat of from 

 50° to 60°, and give plenty of air. The Ixoras should be ele- 

 vated near the glass to set their bloom, and have plenty of air 

 at all times. Keep them comparatively dry. Stephanotis, 

 Allamandas, &c , may be potted and trained preparatory to 

 starting after Christmas, and the staking of all specimen plants 

 must be proceeded with as fast as possible. It will soon be 

 time to commence potting Orchids. Let a stock of proper 

 materials be provided without delay. Free fibrous heath soil 

 cut into squares about the size of walnuts, fresh sphagnum 

 chopped or cut, plenty of broken crocks, charcoal in lumps, 

 and some chopped sticks (avoiding Fir wood), will all be found 

 necessary. The whole of these materials, except the crocks 

 and charcoal, should be subjected to some process that will 

 destroy snails and other insects, with their eggs. The sphag- 

 num and heath are generally Bcalded, but from experience an 

 objection is taken to this, as the process so much hastens de- 

 composition in the vegetable matter that it soon becomes a 

 pulpy mass impervious to the atmosphere. It is better to lay 

 it in some warm and dry place, turning it occasionally. 



FORCING PIT. 



Introduce suoh plants as are generally used for forcing, 



