516 



JOURNAL OF HOETICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ December 29, 1870. 



to my experience in our gardens at the west of London, the 

 eggs are very often laid in small patches, sometimes about a 

 dozen together. This species is notable amongst our Lepi- 

 doptera, as being one of those where there is a degree of re- 

 semblance between the colouring of the caterpillar and the 



Abraxas grossulariata. 

 moth, though the latter is liable to vary. Hatched in the sum- 

 mer, these caterpillars make their appearance perceptible on 

 the bushes, and in very warm seasons they will be of good 

 size in the autumn ere the time of hybernation, though ordi- 

 narily they are but small when they cease eating. In the 

 former case they are apt to verify the proverb, that "more 

 haste is less speed," for becoming conspicuous on the Goose- 

 berry bushes when the leaTes are falling, they are a prey to 

 birds, and never become mothi at all. Bat it is in the spring 

 months the gardener has most reason to dislike A. grossula- 

 riata, for the caterpillars go to work eagerly, and eat not only 

 leaves, but also the buds, and even, as I have observed, the 

 flowers in some seasorjs. The moth, which "flaps" very 

 languidly about, rarely going far from its native spot, is com- 

 monly thought a butterfly by the unscientific. — J. E. S. G. 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



The state of the weather prevents much being done in the 

 garden. See that the Artichokes are securely covered to pre- 

 vent their being injured by frost. The young plants of Gauli- 

 flowers in frames must be protected from severe frost by 

 covering the lights with mats ; if there are any in the open 

 borders protect them with arched sticks and mats. Liy a coat- 

 ing of long dung over the ridges of Celery, particularly that 

 required for use, to preserve it from frost. Wheel manure to 

 vacant ground when the weather is frosty and this can be 

 done without injuring the walks, and let all spare ground be 

 turned up so as to expose it to the action of the weather as 

 long as possible. For land which has been long cropped with 

 vegetables a dressing of fresh loam would in many cases be 

 preferable to manure, and where this is wanted and can be 

 procured, it should be in readiness, so that advantage may be 

 taken of frosty days for wheeling it upon the ground. Where 

 fresh soil cannot be obtained, charred vegetable refuse — such 

 as prunings of shrubberies, edgings of walks, and many things 

 which turn up in the course of the season, may be cheaply 

 • made to form an excellent substitute. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



Make a point of regularly examining every week all the 

 choice kinds of fruits that may be approaching ripeness, or 

 which are found not to be keeping well, so that everything 

 may be used at the proper time, for the finest Pears are worth- 

 less enough if allowed to become over-ripe before being used, 

 and the same is the case with many varieties of Apples. Also 

 look over the whole stock as often as lime can be spared, re- 

 moving any fruit that exhibit symptoms of decay, and put 

 them aside for immediate use. Any of the choicer kinds of 

 Pears that do not appear to ripen properly in the fruit-room, 

 should be removed to a warm dry room for a few days. This 

 will be found to greatly improve them. Keep the fruit as dry 

 and cool as possible, and if the frost is excluded the fruit- 

 room can hardly be too cool when the object is to preserve the 

 fruit plump and sound for a long time. No newly-planted fruit 

 tree should remain without a mulching overthe roots. Standards 

 must be securely staked, and they should afterwards be fre- 

 quently looked to, as they are sometimes apt to get loose and 

 rub against the stake ; if preventive measures are not taken the 

 trees will then be seriously injured. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



The winter weather which we have lately experienced may 

 have Berved to remind those who have neglected to afford pro- 



tection to tender Boses, and other things which are found to 

 require this care, that its application cannot with safety be 

 delayed any longer. The flower garden is now of meagre in- 

 terest, as there is little to be done save those routine operations 

 which ensure high keeping. Take advantage of frosty morn- 

 ings to manure Eose beds, and renew the soil in bedB intended 

 for masses of flowers. Endeavour to forward in inclement 

 weather the preparation of labels and pegs for the beds, or 

 any other article which will be wanted at this busy time of 

 year. Put all implements in good order for work. Be not 

 satisfied with having done things well, but be always striving to 

 improve. Set your standard high, and endeavour to reach it. 

 All planting should have been finished. Complete alterations 

 when the weather is favourable. Any trees or shrubs loaded 

 with snow should have it carefully shaken off. The places in- 

 tended for Hollyhocks, Dahlias, &c, next summer, should be 

 prepared by deep digging, and worbing-in plenty of rotten 

 manure, for there is generally as much time to spare for this 

 kind of work now as at planting-out time, and by preparing 

 the spaces at the present season the soil will be in better con- 

 dition than would be the ease if the work were delayed until 

 planting-out time. Shrubberies may be thinned, where this 

 involves only the cutting-out of overgrown plants or lopping 

 deciduous trees, but where evergreens generally require prun- 

 ing, this is best done in March ; for although, when the winter 

 proves mild, such work may be safely performed at aDy time, 

 it is safer to defer it till spring. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



While frosty weather continues be satisfied with as low a 

 night temperature in all plant houses as it will be safe to keep, 

 taking advantage of bright days to increase the temperature, 

 and using a little fire heat in order to be able to admit fresh 

 air to dispel damp, &c. The proper night temperature for the 

 conservatory very much depends upon the kind of plants it 

 may contain. Where Camellias, Epaerises, Heaths, and other 

 winter-blooming plants form the principal inmates, 40° will be 

 sufficiently high, and with a dry atmosphere the temperature 

 may safely be allowed to sink a few degrees on hard nights ; 

 but in cases where the hardier kinds of winter-flowering stove 

 plants are brought in while in bloom, 45° should be considered 

 the proper mean night temperature. Let whatever watering 

 may be required be done early in the day, so as to allow ad- 

 vantage to be taken of sunshine, whenever that may occur, to 

 give air for the purpose of drying the foliage, &c. Many per- 

 sons appear to entertain an opinion that very little attention 

 is needed to properly supply plants with water at this season, 

 and they only look over their stock at intervals of several days. 

 I would, however, caution youDg gardeners against this mis- 

 take, and advise them to examine every plant at least on alter- 

 nate days, deferring the application of water until it is really 

 required, and then giving a liberal soaking. Attend daily to 

 the removal of dead and decaying leaves, and directly any of 

 the flowering specimens become shabby remove them to some 

 out-of-the-way place, taking care that they are placed under 

 proper conditions as to temperature, &c, according to their 

 wants, and. if possible, supply their places with others in full 

 beauty. Where necessary, the leaves of plants should be 

 sponged over and thoroughly cleaned, and twiners pruned, 

 trimmed, and put into proper order for the spring. Early 

 Hyacinths will soon be in flower, and with care a succession of 

 them may be kept up till spring. For late flowering, the bulbs, 

 if not already planted, should now be put in. The beBt pots 

 are 5-inch (48's) for one bulb, and 6 or 7-inch (32's and 24'b) for 

 three bulbs ; and when a fine display is sought for, three bulbs 

 grown together in one pot secure that object much better than 

 single bulbs. For potting, the soil should be as rich as possible, 

 such as one-half fresh loam, cut from a pasture with the turf 

 decayed in it, well-decomposed cow or horse manure, and a 

 small quantity of clean sand well intermixed. If, however, 

 this kind of compost cannot be obtained, then the lightest and 

 richest at command must be employed instead. Drain effi- 

 ciently, and after filling the pots lightly with the soil, place the 

 bulbs upon the surface, slightly pressing them into the soil. 

 After watering liberally set the pots, thus planted, out of doors 

 on a dry bottom, and cover about a foot deep with old tan, 

 ashes, sawdust, leaf soil, cocoa-nut fibre refuse, or any other 

 light material. After remaining thus for a month, the bulbs 

 will be sufficiently rooted to render it safe to remove them to a 

 gentle bottom heat of about 55°, introducing the pots in num- 

 bers proportionate to the demand at intervals of about a fort- 

 night. In this manner a succession of flowers will be secured 

 until those in the open air come into flower, In foroing, en- 



