September 6, 1877- ] 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



203 



will be reduced, and the plants repotted into clean pota. It is a 

 good plan to sow a few seeds of Cyclamen annually, and to 

 throw away the large plants which have deteriorated. Many of 

 the plants continue to increase in size, and annually throw-up 

 large numbers of fine flowers, others as the corms increase in 

 size fall off in the production of both leaves and flowers. The 

 Cyclamen is one of the easiest managed of greenhouse plants, 

 and few others give such good results for the amount of care 

 bestowed upon them. The Cyclamen may be sown at any time, 

 bat we have had the best plants by sowing about the last week 

 in January or the first in February. As soon as the seedlings 

 can be pocted-off we pot one in the centre of a thumb-pot in 

 light soil. When the plants have made some progress they are 

 shifted into small 60's, and onwards into their flowering pots, 

 never permitting them t:> becomg pot pound before repotting 

 them. Place them on shelves near the glass in a temperature 

 of not less than 55° at night, and by the following Christmas 

 each plant will have an average of fcwenty-four fine flowers on 

 it. After the plants ara established they require the shelter of 

 oold frames only in the summer, and a greenhouse temperature 

 in the winter. 



Cinerarias have also been potted into their blooming pots. It 

 is necessary to pot them at this time for early blooming, and we 

 find that tne flowers are the most valuable when we can have 

 them from Christmas onwards. We are carefal not to allow 

 a single trace of green fly or thrips to remain upon them. They 

 require to ba potted in the same compost as Pelargoniums. 



We are now " setting " .the blooms on Chrysanthemums. 

 Those who are not acquainted with this should look at the 

 strong leading growths at the point. They will find a flower 

 bud with three or four growths starting from each side. It 

 these growths are stopped the buds will swell; if they are 

 allowed to grow the bud will probably perish. — J. Douglas. 



TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 



James Carter & Co., High Holborn, London, W.C. — Catalogue 

 of Fresh Imported Dutch Floioer Roots, <£c, 



B. S. Williams, Victoria and Paradise Nurseries, Upper 

 Holloway London, N.— Part 1, General Bulb Catalogue ; Part 2, 

 Fruit Trees, New Plants, and Hoses. 



James W. Mackey, 40, Westmoreland Sbreet, Dublin, — Cata- 

 logue of Dutch Flower Boots, <&c. 



Ed. Webb & Sons, Wordsley Nurseries, Stourbridge. — Autumn 

 Catalogue of Dutch Bulbs and Garden Requisites. 



Louis Van Houtte, The Royal NurBery, Ghent, Belgium. — 

 Catalogue of Camellias, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Lilies, <&c. 



Dickson & Robinson, 12, Old Mitigate, Manchester. — Catalogue 

 of Dutch Flowering Bulbs, <&c. 



John Laing &Co., StansteadPark and Rutland Park Nurseries, 

 Forest Hill, London, S.E.— Catalogue of Bulbous-rooted Plants, 

 Moses, Spring-flowering Plants, Vines, Sc. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



%* All correspondence should be directed either to "The 

 Editors," or to " The Pablisher." Letters addressed to 

 Mr. Johnson or Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoid- 

 ably. We request that no one will write privately to any 

 of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to un- 

 justifiable trouble and expense. 



History of the Rose (T. H. Q.).— It was not a natural Eose, but an 

 artificial Eose made of gold, that Julias II. sent to Henry VIII. 



Black on Leaves (S.H.). — It is a fungus, the mixture will remove it as 

 well as the scale. 



Varieties (X. Y. Z.). — If the Committee really mean varieties, then three 

 ■distinct varieties of Croton would ba admissible, but you had better ask the 

 Secretary. Species might be intended. 



Pear Leaves Blotched (J. B.). — The brown blotches are caused by the 

 grubs of the Pear-tree Blister Moth. A description and drawing of the 

 insect is in No. 476 of our Journal. 



Eucalyptus globulus (J. Clodc). — It will endure the winter planted as 

 you state. 



Orange Fungus on Eoses (W. A.). — No one could tell you whence the 

 spores which cause it come from. Your only re medy is to dust the leaves 

 and the surface of the soil with flowers of sulphur. 



Peach Tree Unhealthy (D. H.).— Tha shoot sent is much infested with 

 mildew. All growths similarly leafless aud decayed Bhould be cut-out at 

 once, and the trees should be syringed with a solution of Gishurst compound 

 or Boft soap made by dissolving 2 or 3 ozs. of either in a gallon of water. 

 After syringing them dust the trees with sulphur. The trees miy be in bad 

 health in consequence of old age, unsuitable soil, or inelement weather, or all 

 combined. You afford us no data to guide ns to a satisfactory conclusion as 

 to the real cause of their ill condition. 



Climbing Devoniensis (B. F. W.).~Tdo not consider this agood autum nal 

 Eose, but certainly it ia a Perpetual. Anyone who tries such a Eose as Sol- 

 iaterro or Reve d'Or by the side of Climbing DBvoniensis will be struck by 

 the difference in blooming ia the autumn. These Eoses are growing against 

 my church porch, and while Solfaterre is now blooming freely Davoniensie 

 has only two poor blooms. Climbing Dsvooiensis requires the sane treat- 

 ment as to pruning as any other Eose3. Only the dead wool should be cut 

 out.— Wyld Savage. 



Asphalt Wale:3 and Roads (A Correspondent). — Take two parts of very 

 dry lime rubbish, and one part coal ashes also very dry, and both sifted fine. 

 In a dry place on a dry day mix tbem, aud leave a hole in the middle of the 

 heap as bricklayers do when making mortar. In this pour boiling hot coal 

 tar, mix, and when as stiff as mortar put it down 3 inches thick to form the 

 walk. The ground should be dry, and be beaten smooth. Sprinkle over it 

 coarse sand. When cold pass a light roller over it, and in a few days the 

 walk will be solid and waterproof. A neater appearance i3 given by sprinkling 

 with spar, yellow or other gravel, which must, of course, be flue, and put on 

 immediately after laying down the asphalt in place of the Band. It will bear 

 horses without breaking-up. 



Amaryllis longifolia and Pancratium maritimum not Flowering 

 (A. S. S.). — Give them a cool stove temperature and a good sapply of water 

 when growing; as they approach the resting period, which is ascertained by 

 the leaves changing yellow, gradually withhold water and keep the plants 

 dry for three months. 



Worms in Soil (J. H ). — We cannot give you better advice than to apply 

 clear lime water to the plants. We also advise you to procure different soil 

 if possible. Soot water does good to many softwooded plants and is repug- 

 nant to worms. 



Treatment of Young Vines (L. H.).— Cut the canes back to within 

 5 feet of the base of the rafters. It will be better not to plant any fresh 

 Vines this year, but if you have taken up only one rod from each, train up a 

 second rod from each of the Vines. That will give you six rods in the house 

 at 1 foot 3 inches from each end, and 2 feet 6 inches apart. If the Vines 

 grow very strougly five rods will ba sufficient at 3 feet apart and 1 foot 6 inches 

 from each end. 



Evergreen Climber for Unheated Conservatory (R. M.). — Berberi- 

 dopsis coralliua is the best plant tor your purpose. It has handsome dark- 

 green foliage and crimson coral-like flowers. Give the roots a plentiful 

 supply of ric'i soil, water freely, especially during -summer ; keep the foliage 

 clean by spon ig and syringing, and it will make a strong growth, covering 

 a large area o. svall quickly, and be gay with flowers in August and Sep- 

 tember. 



Grape Vines on a Wall (J. B. A.).— Let the wires be 1 inch from the 

 wall, the horizontal branches 18 inched apart, the spurs 12 inches apart, and 

 the Vines 8 feet apart. 



Tuberous Begonias (G. L., Whitby). — Cat off the old growth down to 

 the fresh shoots, to which afford every encouragement, and thus secure a 

 fine late bloom. Liberal doses of liquid manure will materially assist this 

 second growth and prevent exbaustion of the tubers. 



Bark-bound Faurr Trees {A. B. (?.). — Scoring the bark of fruit trees 

 with a knife is an antiquated way of trying to afford relief to trees that have 

 become bark-bound through imperfect root-action arisiug from something 

 wrong in tbe soil, such as a want of nutriment, or that sodden sour condition 

 which is caused by asi accumulation of stagaait water. Instead of hacking 

 about the bark we now turn immediately to the roots and the soil in which 

 they are growing, doing all we cau to drain, enrich, aod sweeten it, knowing 

 that if wo can get plenty of healthy roots established in a sound wholesome 

 soil the health of stem and branches will follow in a season or two. 



Read's Challenge Boiler (G. X>. Mundy). — From what we know of this 

 boiler we believe it will suit you very well for heating your small greenhouse 

 12 by 15 feet. 



Water Lilies Planting (Colonel M.). — The water is too deep. The 

 Lilies should be planted in about 3 feet depth of water. If there is mud or 

 the pond has a soft bottom we shouldmerely secure a stone to each root with 

 wire and drop in the water at the places desired. If, however, the bottom of 

 the water be gravel or other firm substance, we should plant the plauts in 

 strong loamy soil, just oovering the root portion of the plants with soil and 

 make the plants secure in position with wire, pushing them into the requisite 

 depth of water. Shallow wicker baskets, as fishing hampers, answer well for 

 placing the plants in. The best time to plant is in spring (March and April) 

 up to May and June ; the earlier the better, so that the plants may make 

 Borne growth — become established before winter. Plants may be procured of 

 most nurserymen, especially those growing herbiceous plants. We oannot 

 recommend anyone in particular. Other desirable aquatics are— Villarsia 

 nympheeoides, Aponogeton distachyon, Iris pseud- acoris, rftratiotes aloides, 

 Potamogeton oblongus, Richardia fethiopica, Butomus umbellatus, Alisma 

 nutans, Hottonia palastris, Polygonum amphibium, and Eanunculus aquatilis, 

 all of which succeed in from 18 inches to 2 feat depth of water. Tueymaybe 

 planted as described for the Water Lilies. Nymphsea alba isthewhite Water 

 Lily, and Nuphar lutea the yellow Water Lily. Propagation is effected by 

 division. On the margin, in water, you may have EpUobium hirsutum, 

 Lobelia Dortmanni, Lythrum Salicaria, Caltha palustris llore-plano, Cyperus 

 longus, Juncus glomeratus, and Acorns Calamus. 



Painting Wooden Garden Fence (Idem).— We should paint the wood 

 when thoroughly dry with thin oreosote at a temperature of 180\ and in 

 three weeks or a month paint with anti- corrosion paint stone or oak coloar. 

 We have a diamond paling fence done over with thin cold creosote about 

 eleven years ago, afterwards painted oak colour, and the paint is as good ap- 

 parently as when first put on. See what "Observer" writes respecting 

 thi3 mode of painting at page 119 of the Journal for August 9th. The 

 wood wall would be better wired, but the wires ought not to be more than 

 half an inch from the wood. 



Stopping Budded Rose Growths (St. Ed7iiund).—Yon did right to stop 

 tbe growths to prevent the growths flowering ; but wrong if you stopped 

 closely, inasmuch as with a moist autumn the eyas at the bise of the shoots 

 may start into growth, such growths, from the wood not being ripe, often 

 being killed if the winter prove severe. The plants may be transplanted to 

 their permanent quarters in November, or so soon as the leaves fall, or a 

 majority of them. Merely remove the flower bad from those advancing for 

 bloom. 



Markchal Niel Eose Cdttings (Idem).— Take up the cuttings now, 

 potting them in pots no larger than will hold the roots easily, and place on 

 ashes in a cold frame, shading from sun until established. The pots should 

 be plunged in ashes to the rim or a little over before severe weather, in which 

 a protection of mits over the lights will be found serviceable. Plant out in 

 late March or early April. We presume you intend to plant against a wall 

 or in a warm situation. 



Names of Fruits (W., Berks).— Early Nonpareil. (A. H.).— We do not 

 recognise the Apple. It is fearfally acid, and is no donbt good in pies. This 

 is an illustration that an Apple which suits a boy does not always suit a 



