October 4, 1S77. 



JOUSNAIi OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



277 



Plantains on Lawn (J. S.).— We know of no mode of destroying them 

 except by cutting them out with a knife or dropping oil of vitriol into the 

 centre of each weed. 



Grape Culture (E. C). — Onr " Vine Manual," free by post if you 

 enclose thirty-two postage stamps with your address. 



Geraniums \C. P. Bolton). — There are hundreds of varieties so nearly 

 alike that they cannot bs named from mere trusses. 



Fruit Trees for South-aspected Wooden Fence (T. G.).—Ot Pears, 

 Beurre Diel, Glou Morceau, Passe Colmar, and Winter Nelis. Of Plums, 

 Green Gage and Coe's Golden Drop. 



Grapes Shrivelling {Mis. Thorneycroft). — Theprema l ure shrivelling of 

 the berries of which you complain arises from insufficient moisture at the 

 roots. Have the border thoroughly drenched with sewage when the fruit 

 commences colouring, giving at the same time a surfiee-drtssing of manure, 

 and you will soon perceive a material improvement in branches, foliage, 

 and fruit. 



Iyy not Clinging — Climbing Plants for a North Aspect (F. J.). — 

 Seme kinds of Ivy do not cling readily to walls of any description, the lead- 

 ing shoots having to ba fastened with shreds and nails A cemented wall 

 can be covered with Ivy in this way, hat the branch root3 never take very 

 strong hold of snch a surface because of its dryness, a parous surface 

 capable of absorbing much moisture, as brick or stone, inducing a quick 

 strong root-growth, which enters every crevice and spreads over the entire 

 surface. Mr. Luckhurst has Lonicera flexuosa upon a north aspect, and finds 

 it answers admirably. You cannot do better t ban train it npon a trellis against 

 your wall as you propose. A few other good climbers for snch a po-ition are 

 Cotonea3ter microphylla, C. Simonsii, Crataegus Pyracantba, Escallunia ma- 

 crantha, Ampelopsis hederacea.BsrberisDarwinii.andLigustrum japonkum. 

 The address which you require is Messrs. Barr & Sugden, 12, King Street, 

 Covent Garden. 



Pruning Summer Growths of Fruit Trees (K 1SI. S.). — It is good 

 practice not to prune yet, but to give each shoot a twist about 2 inches from 

 its base, not breaking it, hut turning it downwards 6o as to direct the full 

 flow of the sap from the upper part of the shoot into the buds at its baee, 

 which thus become large and full without startiug into premature growth. 

 Prune when the leaf falls, leaving your spurs short or loDg as may be best 

 suited to their position on the tree, from one to sis buds being left on as is 

 found necessary. 



Seedlings of Pansies, Sweet Williams, and Antirrhinums {Idem).— 

 Transplant from the seed beds immediately, in order that the plants may 

 be well established before severe weather sets in. 



Gloire de Dijon Eose not Flowering (Idem).— Yon need have no 

 fear that this very free-flowering variety will not develops its true oharacter 

 eventually. As you wish your flourishing young plants to come early iuto 

 flower avoid hard pruning, simply cutting off a few inches of the lung shoot3 

 and nailing them horizontally along the wall to induce every bud to give 

 growth nest season. Continue your liberal treatment; it is hardly possible 

 to overfeed a Rose so robust as this is. 



Bone Dust for Eoses Amateur).— It is a "good thing" for Eoses, a 

 large banofal mixed with the soil employed in planting each plant, or it may 

 be given in March, a handful sprinkled around the plant for a distance of 

 lfoot to '8 inches from the stem, pointing- in lightly with a fork. Seedling 

 Briars will require to make two years' growth, and in the third be budded, or 

 ao Eoon as strong enough. 



Fungus on Water Lilt Leates {W. J. C). — We know of no means of 

 •destroying the jrlly-like sabstanca except to sponge it off. Probably some 

 newts placed in the water would tend to lessen the evil by purifying the water. 



Lettuces and Radishes in Winter (E. B. P.). — A rich friable loamy 

 soil is most suitable with about a fourth of well-decayed manure well 

 incorporated. The soil should be placed about 8 inches thick over a hotbed 

 formed of sweetened dung, over which is to be placed a frame, the seed of 

 Eadisnes being sown in the early part of November. The temperature of the 

 bed should be 65° to 75^, and the lightB may be put on but withdrawn when 

 the plants appear, the object being to prevent tbem from drawing and yet 

 keeping theui slowly growing. If the weather be frosty the lights must be 

 kept on and frost excluded by a covering of mats over the lights in severe 

 weather, the opportunity to give air being carefuby attended to whenever the 

 mildness of the weather permits. The temperature of tnc frame should 

 be 55 n . Gentle waterings will occasionally be required, also liaings of 

 fresh dung to mainrain the requisite temperature of the bed. A sowing 

 should be made every three weeks until the midale of February. The best 

 kinds for forcing are Wood's Frame, French Breakfast, and White Forcing 

 Turnip. We sow the kinds named on a border of JL<ht soil in a sheltered 

 situation at the end of September, and they come-in in early November, and 

 give a supply until near Christmas, thev being covered wiih straw in severe 

 weather, removing it when mild. The China Rose aad Black Spanish, sown 

 at the end of August or early September, are fins for winter, they being pro- 

 tected from frost or taken up in case of severe frost and stored in sand 

 Eampions are also useful for winter salading, the seed being sowu in May, the 

 roots taken up in autumn and stored in sand. Lettuces should be sown for 

 winter use about the end of July or early August, which will give plants if 

 properly cultivated which may be transplanted in frames during November; 

 they, being well ventilated and kept from frost, will give a suppy until 

 Christmas. They cannot be kept too cool, only exclude frost and wet. For 

 plant-* to succeed them sow the third week in August on a warm border in rows 

 9 inches apart, and the length of the frames the plants are to ba covered 

 with. Thin the plants to 6 inches distance apart in the rows, and place on 

 the frames in November. Air to be given very freely, aad the plauts kept 

 ■from frost by litter placed against the sides of the frame, and mats with 

 straw over the lights, removing in mild weather. Ihey will succeed those 

 transplanted in frames, and continue until the autumn-sown outdoor plants 

 ■come in. Every other plant should be cut, which wll give more room to toe 

 plants left. The best kinds for winter use are Cabbage— All the Year Round. 

 Early Paris Market, and Stanstead Park; Cos— Brown Sugarloaf, Hicks's 

 Hardy White, and Bath (black-seeded). 



Soil for Fe*ns (if.).— The bog peat is not suitable. Kent peat answers 

 well, and so will the heath peat if brown, fibrous, acd sandy The brown 

 fibrous bag peat will grow the stronger- growing kinds e.-pecially " tree " 

 kinds well. We find a majority of Ferns to do well in turfy loam ; indeed, 

 the home of most Ferns is a loamy soil overlaid with vegetable mat er* the 

 debris of their own or previous vegetation. We advise, however, two-thiids 

 of brown, fibrous, sandy peat, one-third of yellow turfy loam, and a Bixth of 

 silver sand, which will suit most kinds, whilst for the strong-growing sorts 



we should not scruple to use the "brown, fibrous, bog peat," which as it 

 grows Rhododendrons very well would grow Ferns; yet we have used black 

 b )g peat, and it became a soapy mass in which nothing flourished for a long 

 period. Leaf soil from decayed leases is objectionable for the same reason. 



Potting Lllium auratum {S. B). — Mr. Wood cuts down the stems of his 

 Liliums at the same time that he pots them. He also gives each stem a slight 

 twist and it come3 out of th« bu>b ; then there is no part left in the bulb to 

 cause it to decay. Mr. Wood's bulbs have been potted rather more than a 

 fortnight. The pots are plunged in ltaf soil on a dry bottom, not in ashes, 

 which when employed fresh contain sulphur, which is washed out of the ashes 

 with rain and is iDJuri< us to the Liliums. The plants are watered with 

 liquid manure water as Boon as the pots are full of roots until the flowers are 

 ready to open, then sofo water only is given. The bulbs are placed halt way 

 down the pots, good drainage being provided. 



Renewing Vine Border (C. 17.).— We are situated where the subsoil 

 and other surroundings are the same as yours, and have also had the Vines 

 to shank similar to yours. Our plan, which has been successful, has been to 

 dig a trench at that part of the border farthest removed from the Vines, the 

 trench -to be as deep as the bottom of the border; then with forks remove the 

 old compost and raise the roots nearer the surface. Our Vines are planted 

 inside, and the borders are both outside and inside. We only do one border 

 at a time, and generally find al the best roots in the gravel underneath. 

 We renew the border with a compost of good turfy loam eight parts, decayed 

 manure one part, and to each cartload add a bushel of charcoal and a peck 

 of crushed bones. Our borders are not concreted. Messrs. Backhouse of 

 Tork could supply you with plants of the Campanula you require, but not 

 very likely with Beeds. 



Greenhouse Climber (B. M.).— Any of the London firms can supply the 

 creeper you want, or will obtain it for you. Bignonia Chamberlaynei with 

 yellow flowers, or Passifiora cinnabirina with bright red flowers, would suit 

 yox Tne common large-leaved Ivy is the best for covering walls quickly. 

 We cannot recommend oealors in such plants. 



Show Pansies (0. J. B ). — It is best to propagate young plauts annually. 

 You will find a number of slender growths springing from the base of the 

 plants ; these are the best to make into cuttings, which strike freely now, or, 

 indeed, at any Beason under hand-lights. 



Cherry Tree Unfruitful (Tdem\ — It is not uncommon for the fruit to 

 drop off as you describe. Root-pruning or lifting the tree altogether would 

 not mend matters. Indeed, there is no help for it, as nearly all the varieties 

 of Cherry trees throw off part of their fruit in a green state, some more than 

 others. Governor Wood, May Duke, Elton, and Black Tartarian are free- 

 bearing sorts. 



Culture of Ttdxas (J. A., Croydon).— These plants require similar 

 treatment to Achimeues. Pot them in peat and leaf soil with a good pro- 

 portion of silver sand. The plants like plenty of heat when growing. They 

 also require a short season of rest, but the roots must not be too much 

 dried, as they do not form tubers similar to Gesneras and Achimenes. After 

 a short season of rest it is best to start them again. 



Hollyhocks (Quiz). — For treatment s:-e "Doings of La3t Week." Frank 

 Gibb Dougal. James Laing, Mrs Laing, and John Stewart, are good varieties. 

 Six tine Dahlias are — Artisce. Christopher Ridley, Canary, John Standish, 

 Ovid, and Herbert Turner; and three of the best Fuchsias are Avalanche 

 (Smith), Mrs. Marshall, and Mrs. Cinnell. 



Length of Gseenhouse Lights (L. F. 0.). — You do not in'orm us 

 whether the width of the bouse includes the side walls or is the interior 

 width only. The back lights being 4 feet 8incb.es you will Deed lights for 

 the front part of the roof 5 feet 6 inches in length, presuming ths whole 

 width to bs 9 feet, including the side walls, which should not be less than 

 9 inches thici, but should tha width be 9 feet clear of the walls inside you 

 will require light3 for the front part of the ro >f 7 feet long. The lights should 

 project 1 to l£ inch beyond the walls. We should have the front of the house 

 above 2 feet t> inches from the floor line sashed fur glass, and every other 

 light made to open, with corresponding lights in the npper part of the roof 

 also to open for ventilation. As your house is not to be heated we should 

 be content with fuch plants as will be useful to you in future years for 

 forcing, such as Deutzia gracilis, Dielytra spectabilis, Spmea japnnica, 

 Prunus sinensis alba flore-pleno, Hellehorus niger, and Tea-scentea Eoses. 

 Clematises Lady Londesboiough, Miss Bateman, and Albert Victor are very 

 fine. With these and buibd — dyacinths, Narcissuses, Tulips, and Crocuses, 

 you may have an effective displa? in spring, especially if you add a few of the 

 early-flowering Rhododendrons, and .- zalea pontica in variety. 



Canon Hall Muscat Grape3 Stoneless {Alfred Powell). — Stoneless 

 Grapes betjken a waut of vigour in the Vine. Is the soil thin and poor ? 

 If so, lose no time in applying a liberal surface- dressing of manure, to which 

 add any such substances as wood ashes, mortar rubbish, burnt weeds, or 

 chopped turf. How about the drainage and watering ? Any defect or want 

 in either respect does harm. If nothing is wanting in any of the points 

 indicated, and the crop is abundant and fine, then we can only suggest care- 

 ful impregnation nest season with pollen of this or any other Grape, taking 

 care to remove the globule of moisture so frequently found upon the pistil 

 of the flowers of this Grape before yon apply the pollen. Our reply to your 

 inquiry is necessarily suggestive rather than conclusive, for you tell us 

 nothing about the condition, of the Vines. 



Heating a Plant Protector {An Old Subscriber). — If yon have any 

 hot-water apparatus the best plan would be to run a 3-inch pipe round the 

 Bides, iruch a pipe could, of course, be attached to an ordinary kitchen 

 boiler. Failing the pipe, a small furnace and brick flue would answer very 

 we U, letting the flue pass through or rather under the centre in an open 

 trench of brickwork, the top of the flue being a few inches below the bottom 

 of the protector, with a grating or strips of wood over it, whereon plants 

 might be placed, as the heat need never be bo violent as to parch the roots, 

 your object being only to exclude frost. One flue would suffice, the furnace 

 being at one end, and the chimney with a damper near the bottom at the 

 other end. 



Ventilation of a Conservatory (A Subscriber). — If by drawing down 

 the blind and opening all the ventilators you cannot reduce the temperature 

 to within a few decrees of that outside the house, then more openings must 

 be made in the roof, where in any case tLere should be some ventilators near 

 the ridge on the Bouth slope, or how can you admit air when a cold north or 

 north-ea-t wind is biowiug on a clear day? We are inclined to think there 

 is something wrong in the watering. Do you give enough water during 

 hot days ? All the plants do not require water at the same time, and in hot 

 weather they must he inspected three times a-day, taking care that all neie3- 



