November 8, 1877. ] 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



371 



that the same vigour will be immediately shown under cultiva- 

 tion aa was before exhibited. 



" It is especially in the removal of the rock- loving Ferns that 

 the greatest violence is usually done to the plants. Most of the 

 rook-growing species have very abundant, wiry, fibrous rootlets, 

 which penetrate in a very remarkable way the stony interstices 

 in the neighbourhood of the rootstock. It is often made a sub- 

 ject of complaint by Fern-collectors that the rock-growiDg 

 species are more difficult than any others to establish under 

 Cultivation. But the difficulty arises chiefly from the circum- 

 stance which has already been alluded to. No doubt it is often 

 a matter of difficulty to uproot the rock-loving Ferns, and it is 

 for this work that a hammer and chisel are neoessary, so that 

 by the careful undermining and removal of the adjacent por- 

 tions of rock the crown, rootstock, and rootlets of the specimen 

 desired may be got out unharmed. 



" Where by the careful process recommended Ferns are got 

 out from their places of growth, damp moss or other moist 

 material should be wrapped securely round their rootstocks and 

 rootlets. In this way they can be conveniently carried to a con- 

 siderable distance without any covering to the fronds, although 

 if the air be very hot, dry, and sultry the fronds, if intended to 

 remain on the plant, must, especially those of the most fragile 

 or herbaceous kinds, be kept under shelter, as they would be if 

 put into a covered basket or other convenient covered receptacle. 

 In removing the larger kinds of Ferns, however, during the 

 Bummer it may often be found convenient, especially where 

 room for putting the specimens has to be economised, to cut off 

 all, or at least the largest of the fronds, and to wrap in moss, or 

 keep oovered merely, the rootstocks and rootlets. When planted 

 in the garden or other place of cultivation new fronds, as we 

 have already said, will, if nnder favourable conditions, speedily 

 be thrown up to supply the place of those removed. Where a 

 tour is made in search of small specimens of Ferns it is best, 

 after wrapping moss (which is generally to be found in the 

 neighbourhood of Ferns) around each little root, to pack together, 

 root side by side with root, the whole of the specimens. If a 

 moist wrapper be then placed round them they will keep fresh 

 for days, and even for weeks if occasionally looked at and 

 sprinkled with water. If a quantity of reed straw be taken 

 with the collector on a Fern-hunting excursion it will be pos- 

 sible to preserve the fronds of the larger species by putting the 

 reeds on the ground in a line with the direction of the fronds, 

 and rolling them round the mass of roots and tying them in 

 that position. In this way the tops of the reeds standing out 

 around the fronds will protect them from injnry until they 

 are safely disposed of in the garden at home. In collecting the 

 rock-loving species of Ferns it is desirable when possible to 

 detach a little portion of the rock, so as to avoid tearing off the 

 rootlets of the plant. 



" One important object in Fern collecting should always be 

 kept in miud. Before removing a plant from its home, the soil 

 in which it is growing, its position? as to shade or shelter, and 

 the manner in which it has fastened itself to sloping bank, to 

 tree fork, or to rifted rock, should be carefully noted ; and the 

 oultivator should then endeavour aB nearly as possible to pro- 

 vide similar conditions of growth under cultivation. In this 

 way many curious and beautiful lessons will be learned from 

 the teachings of Nature." 



FORCING SEAKALB. 



Vabious mode3 of forcing Seakale are adopted, but the 

 method I wiBh briefly to point out is the simplest, cheapest, 

 and best I have found. 



In the first place the ground is measured out in 5-feet beds 

 with 2-feet spaces between the beds to form alleys, the soil is 

 taken from these spaces 18 inches or 2 feet in depth and thrown 

 on each side to form the beds, which are made firm at the sides 

 with the spade to keep them from crumbling down. The beds 

 are made level, and are then ready for the insertion of the 

 roots. A trench or drill is chopped out at one end of the 

 bed ; the plants are placed in the trench about 2 inches apart 

 and 6 inches from row to row, leaving 6 inches on each side 

 of the bed. After enough has been planted for a batoh fill the 

 trenches with well-heated manure (which should be prepared 

 beforehand) and treading it rather firmly into them. The beds 

 will then be ready for covering over, which is done by bending 

 bean or hurdle rods over the beds, placing the thick end on 

 the outside of the bed, or rather into the trench, and tying 

 the thin ends together to form an arch about 3 feet high. A 

 covering of mats is then tied over the hoops ; sometimes two 

 or three coverings are used according to the weather. In very 

 severe weather, or when the Kale is wanted quickly, a lot of 

 long manure is used between the mats, the outside mats being 

 secured to pegs driven into the sides of the beds to prevent 

 the wind blowing the mats off; they are also tied to each 

 other on the top. 



By this treatment Seakale can be obtained in a month or 

 five weeks. If too much is likely to be produced at once, or 

 if it is required to keep some back, take off some of the cover- 

 ing, which will also improve the flavour of the Kale. It 

 never tastes so earthy when grown in this way as when 

 large quantities of manure and leaves are carted together to 

 grow a few dozen heads quickly and too often poor and 

 spindly.— J. P. 



OUR BORDER FLOWERS— CROWFOOTS. 



Amongst the most beautiful of our border and spring garden 

 plants are the Hepaticas. In years gone by they were classed 

 with the Anemones, but now form a family of themselves that 

 may be said to be always bright in sunshine or in shade — 

 indeed, all the more beautiful in partial shade. 



We are indebted to North America for these charming spring 

 beauties. They are well adapted for all purposes that flowers 

 and plant3 are required, for they are a very accommodating 

 race. They are everybody's flower. Place them where you 

 may — in pot, basket, rock or border, indoors or out — they 

 afford us a pleasure that no other flowers can in the sunny 

 days of spring. Then they are among the old, old border 

 flowers, and planted in masses or in lines, alternating their 

 colours, the effect is charming. Being evergreen they may 

 remain as permanent plants, or be removed to make room for 

 the summer occupants of the garden. 



Of Hepatica the single kinds are increased by seed and 

 division. The seed is best sown as soon as ripe in well-drained 

 pots in a mixture of sandy loam and peat in a cool moist pit 

 or frame. Patience will require to be exercised, for the young 

 plants may not make their appearance until the following 

 spring. They will require care in watering. When large 

 enough they can be pricked out in pans or boxes as most 

 convenient, affording a little shade in bright weather until 

 established. The double varieties are increased by division 

 in the autumn, that they may be ready for their work in the 

 spring. They are rather impatient of removal, and are better 

 when left where raised. They like a free soil, moderately rich ; 

 all the better if gritty. They should have efficient drainage. 

 To Bee these plants where they are grown by the thousand for 

 sale is a sight never to be forgotten. 



The kinds most common in cultivation are the single blue 

 and white, double blue and red. Hepatica angulosa, the 

 largest of the race, is a most telling plant for all purposes, and 

 is worthy of very extensive cultivation. It is to be regretted 

 that we have not more variety in colours of these old favourite 

 plants. — Yebitas. 



FORK AND HOE. 



The benefits accruing from the liberal use of these tools 

 are generally underrated. The primary use of the hoe is 

 to uproot and destroy weeds. Its secondary use is to keep 

 in moisture and admit the heat of the sun and air. A hard 

 close soil dries much quicker, and is not so easily moistened 

 either by irrigation or by rain. Plants grown in soil which is 

 in a close and hard state always suffer from drought sooner than 

 plants which are grown with a surface kept loose by hoeing. 

 The reason of this is, that a compact surface evaporates mois- 

 ture drawn from beneath by the force of capillary attraction 

 less readily if there is some Iooeo material on the surface. 

 Everyone knows that litter or short grass strewn over a piece 

 of ground will be the means of keeping that ground in a moist 

 state, while an uncovered piece will be parched and dry during 

 a long drought. A surface of loose soil acts iu the same way, 

 only leBS effectually. A well-hoed piece of ground admits the 

 sun's rays more readily than an unhoed piece. This may be 

 proved by the use of a thermometer. After heavy rain has 

 battered the soil until it is quite smooth, and cracks on the 

 surface after the rain is gone and the sun comes out, hoe a 

 piece of ground which is exposed to the sun, insert a thermo- 

 meter in it to the depth of 8 or 10 inches, insert one in an 

 unhoed piece, and after the lapse of twenty-four hours examine 

 the two thermometers, and you will have convincing proof that 

 a loose surface favours the absorption of heat. The advantage 

 of warmth in the soil we may pass over without remark, as 

 almost anyone can tell whether plants thrive better in a warm 

 or cold soil. I may remark, however, that a fresh surface in 

 pots aots in the same way, and that a clean pot absorbs heat 

 more readily than one covered with Blimy matter, and at the 

 same time retains it better. 

 Forking the soil has the effect of drying it in wet seasons 



