u 



JOUENAL OF HOBTICULTUBE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ July 18, 1872. 



wizened tilings called Peaches that you buy in Switzerland for 

 a batz. 



Eleventhly, I advise you to set traps for woodlice and ear- 

 wigs, and to wage war with ants. 



Twelfthly, Mulch the surface of your border with rich ma- 

 nure (this is no contradiction to what I said in Eule 1) ; then 

 the water percolating through the interstices of the soil will 

 convey to the roots as much nourishment as they require. To 

 drench your trees with strong liquid manure is like dosing 

 your friend with spirits neat, under the delusion that you are 

 thereby making hi in jolly. 



Lastly, See that your house is well ventilated. Could you 

 have been happy in the black hole of Calcutta ? Then think of 

 your trees gasping for fresh air. Keep your shutters down at 

 night. I know that some differ from me in this respect, who 

 teach you to reserve heat by closing shutters ; but as my theme 

 is the happiness of fruit trees, on behalf of their comfort I say, 

 Give them air. 



And now I have furnished thirteen rules. I will not 

 add more. I am well aware I have said nothing new — that 

 would be a difficult job in these days of enlightenment — I 

 have but tried to dress up an old matter in a new garb. It is 

 quite possible that I have laid myself open to adverse criticism, 

 but I am determined that no amount of censoriousness shall 

 have the power to disconcert me, so long as I can walk through 

 my own spacious orchard house and survey my trees (as the 

 result of adherence to the rules I have ventured to prescribe) , 

 looking thriving and happy. — A Constant Reader. 



THE STRAWBEBEY IN 1872. 

 The season of 1872 has been remarkable for a pretty general 

 failure of the fruit crops. In this neighbourhood (Ilford) Plums, 

 both as standards and pyramids, are a total failure ; Apples and 

 Pears are not the fourth of a crop, and Gooseberries and Red 

 Currants are far from plentiful. Under such adverse circum- 

 stances it is some satisfaction to know that Strawberries are 

 abundant, and the weather being highly favourable for ripen- 

 ing them, the quality is also good. 



There is still considerable difference of opinion as to which 

 is the best system of culture to adopt with the Strawberry. 

 Some growers contend that it is best to destroy the old beds 

 annually and make a fresh plantation every year ; others prac- 

 tise a different system — they plant in autumn, and continue to 

 pinch all runners and any flowers which may appear the 

 following season, trusting to make up for the loss of a crop 

 one season by gathering an abundant one in the following year. 

 I believe that the different classes of soils have much influence 

 as regards this difference of opinion. A clayey loam seems to 

 be that best adapted to the requirements of this fruit, and on 

 such soils I have seen the same beds continue in good bearing 

 condition for many years, requiring no attention except to 

 keep the ground free from weeds and to loosen the soil be- 

 tween the rows with a fork in autumn or winter, having 

 previously dressed the beds with a liberal portion of rotten 

 manure. In light sandy loam with a gravelly subsoil similar 

 treatment would not insure success, and would probably end 

 in failure. There are examples of both old and young plants at 

 this place — the soil is light and the subsoil gravel — oh the old 

 plants, and they are only two years old, the crop is very scanty 

 and the quality indifferent, while on the plants which were 

 " set out" as young runners in August last year, the crop is 

 most abundant, and the quality all that can be desired. In- 

 deed, so unsatisfactory have been the crops from old beds with 

 me, that I have determined to form fresh beds annually, and 

 destroy the old ones as soon as the fruit has been gathered 

 from them. 



Before planting out it is well to see that the ground is pre- 

 viously well prepared by trenching it 2 feet deep, if the nature 

 of the soil will allow of it, taking this opportunity to add to it 

 a liberal proportion of good manure. This is placed in the 

 trenches in two layers in the following manner : — A trench is 

 thrown out at one end of the ground and the soil wheeled to 

 the farther end ; one layer of manure is placed at the bottom 

 of this trench ; a similar space is marked off parallel to the first 

 trench, a spit of earth is thrown out, and the loose portion is 

 shovelled on the top of it, another layer of manure is spread 

 over it, and another spit and the loose earth are thrown out. I 

 also fork up the bottom of the trench so that the ground, when 

 the subsoil admits of it, shall be stirred to a considerable 

 depth. The planting ought also to be done in a careful manner, 

 as on this much of the ultimate success depends. 



Whether for culture in pots or for planting out I always layer 

 the plants in small pots which are filled with rich loam. When 

 they are well established, which will be in a fortnight, more or 

 less, sever them from the parent plants, and as soon afterwards 

 as may be convenient let them be planted out. Do not on any 

 account allow them to remain in the pots until they are root- 

 bound. I have sometimes, when the ground has not been 

 ready for them, shifted into larger pots rather than they should 

 receive a cheek. If the ground is dry, as it frequently is at 

 this season of the year, it ought to be flooded with water and 

 allowed to remain twelve hours before planting. 



The after-treatment should be directed to obtaining sturdy 

 and robust plants sufficiently large to carry a good crop of fruit. 

 If a dry period sets in give a good soaking of water at least 

 once a-week ; and should the red spider (a most inveterate 

 enemy of the Strawberry plant) appeal - , syringe occasionally 

 with soot water, which will keep it in check. Stir the ground 

 frequently with a hoe, and keep it perfectly free from weeds. 



Pot culture is also extremely simple. The plants are layered 

 in small pots 3^ inches in diameter, inside measure ; they are 

 potted as soon as established into 6-inch pots, using four parts 

 of good loam and one part of rotted manure. In potting, the 

 compost ought to be pressed in quite firmly ; the plants should 

 then be removed to an airy position, fully exposed to the sun 

 yet sheltered from furious gales ; give abundant supplies of 

 water after the roots have taken firm hold of the sides of the 

 pots, but do not at this time give any manure water. Towards 

 the end of September the pots will be completely filled with 

 roots, the crowns will begin to ripen, and less water must be 

 given to them. 



At the end of October the pots should be removed under 

 some glass protection, and, if the structure is unheated, plunged 

 in some light material to protect them from frost. The best 

 place to winter them in is a pit sufficiently heated to keep the 

 frost out. From this pit they can be removed in successive 

 batches for forcing, but they must not be placed in too strong 

 heat at first, and the plants should be kept as near as possible 

 to the glass, where they can have the benefit of all the air that 

 is admitted. The most troublesome insect pest is red spider, 

 which, however, can easily be kept under by syringing. The 

 plants must be well supplied with water, especially after the 

 flower-trusses appear. It is the custom with some to place 

 the pots in saucers which are kept full of water. When this is 

 the case they do not require so much attention, but it is a 

 method I do not approve of, as the quality of the fruit is im- 

 paired, and the leaves and stalks of the fruit are drawn up. 

 When the flowers are fully expanded it is time to thin them 

 out. From six to twelve fruits will be sufficient for a 6-inch 

 pot. 



I have grown eighteen sorts this year, and all of them are 

 distinct. I have not had any variety yet to supersede the 

 Black Prince for earliness ; it is also exceedingly fruitful, but 

 small and rather deficient in flavour. Vicomtesse Hfoicart de 

 Thury is said to be quite as early, and the fruit is larger and 

 of better flavour, but I have not yet tried it. Through the 

 kindness of Mr. Sage, of Ashridge, I received a supply of Keens' 

 Seedling, a variety which has previously failed here, but I be- 

 lieve I never had the true sort. It is, though one of the oldest, 

 one of the best both for forcing and out-door culture. Presi- 

 dent is next in earliness, and ripened simultaneously with 

 Alexander II., a new variety which has done remarkably well 

 both in pots and planted out. It bears an abundant crop of 

 large even-sized fruit of a bright red colour throughout ; the 

 fruit is also of good flavour. British Queen and Mr. Eadclyffe 

 still hold a very high position, but as I have them here they 

 are so much alike that it is not possible to distinguish the one 

 from the other either in the plant or fruit. Neither of them 

 produces such large-sized, fine-looking fruit as Dr. Hogg. This, 

 when it succeeds, is magnificent, but in our light soil it has 

 much degenerated ; the plants are very liable to die off, and 

 50 per cent, of them become barren. Lucas and Premier are 

 highly desirable varieties, they produce very large highly- 

 coloured fruit, and are excellent exhibition varieties. Lucas 

 is of very good flavour, a point in which Premier is deficient. 

 La Constante is true to its name, and is a variety I should not 

 like to dispense with. It is excellent for pot culture from its 

 exceedingly dwarf and compact habit of growth, and for this 

 reason it can be planted closer together than any of the other 

 sorts ; it is well adapted for small gardens. 



Frogmore Late Pine is one of the best productions from the 

 Eoyal Gardens, and is a most useful late variety, dark in colour, 

 an abundant cropper, and of a rich Pine flavour. Cockscomb 



