July 18, 1872. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGK GARDENER. 



C7 



the attacks of four-footed intruders. Nothing secures those 

 grown for cutting like a twisted wire. Of course, were we to 

 show fine specimens, we would single out our dozens of blooms 

 to two or three blooms on a plant. Unfortunately, from want 

 of space, &c, we have been obliged to give prominence to 

 some things in succession. Years ago we detailed how we got 

 literally sheaves of fine blooms from the perpetual Carnations 

 and Picotees, and we had nothing to surpass them in the 

 autumn months, and then the younger plants under the treat- 

 ment specified bloomed all the winter and spring. If we could, 

 we should like to grow the best of these beauties again, as 

 nothing, especially for cut flowers, could be more lovely. For 

 beds out of doors to be masses of bloom after July and 

 August, we used to turn out strong plants in spring, protecting 

 them from enemies in the usual way. For fine plants under 

 glass in winter and spring we used to nip out the terminal bud 

 of smaller plants in March, turn out into rich stiff soil in 

 April, nip off any flower-buds that showed early, raise the 

 plants with balls, and repot in September, when they were 

 ."bristling with flower-buds. The four-footed intruders were too 

 .many for us at last, and in one night destroyed a collection 

 that it had taken us years to procure. 



Anemones, Ranunculuses, Hyacinths, Tulips, &c, as soon as 

 <the foliage decays, if good kinds, will be all the better to be 

 raised, gradually dried in the shade, and kept dry afterwards 

 until they are planted. Common kinds may be left in the 

 ground, but even they often do better from having a regular 

 dry rest before planting out. 



Many things have been attended to, so as to bring up our 

 leeway. The lawn, taken up and relaid last year, has well paid 

 ■the labour, but the addition of earth, to take away all irregu- 

 larities, has made the grass so grow as to require almost con- 

 stant cutting in this moist weather. The rains have just 

 suited the flower-beds, and more sun is now needed to make 

 them masses of bloom. A dry day or two would enable us to 

 get the edgings into shape, as some have grown too much. 

 Moved plants to corridors and conservatory, repotted succes- 

 sions, and fresh potted Fuchsias, Coleus, &c, for autumn. In 

 dressing cut flowers with sprigs of Maiden-hair, we find the 

 older fronds stand the best. We also find that these fronds 

 will stand a long time in damp sand or water by themselves 

 but only a short time when mixed with other flowers. — R. F. 



TRADE CATALOGUE EECEIVED. 



Ant. Roozen & Son, Overveen, near Haarlem. — Catalogue of 

 Choice Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocus, and other Dutch and Cape 

 ■Bulbs. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



*** We request that no one will write privately to any of the 

 correspondents of the " Journal of Horticulture, Cottage 

 Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By so doing they 

 are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All 

 communications should therefore be addressed solely to 

 The Editors of the Journal of Horticulture, $c, 171, Fleet 

 Street, London, E.C. 



We also request that correspondents will not mix up on the 

 same sheet questions relating to Gardening and those on 

 Poultry and Bee subjects, if they expect to get them 

 answered promptly and conveniently, but write them on 

 separate communications. Also never to send more than 

 two or three questions at once. 



N.B. — Many questions must remain unanswered until next 

 week. 



Books (R. K, C.).— Sir James E. Smith's " English Botany " costs £25. The 

 plates are coloured. Another work illustrating the wild plants is " The 

 Wild Flowers of Great Britain," published at our office in monthly parts at Is. 

 (C. B. L.).— Dr. Masters' " Botany for Beginners" is the best you can have. 

 (J., Richmond). — "Notcutt's Handbook of British Plants," is the most con- 

 cise and cheapest. You can have it sent from our office for Ss. Sd, in stamps. 



Grubs Eating Grapes {J. A.).— The grubs you have enclosed did not 

 cause the damage to your Grapes. They are scalded, and require to have 

 more air given them, and the border protected from too much wet. The 

 caterpillars had nothing to do with it. 



Grapes Scalded (C. F.).— Your Grapes are scalded. Give more air, and 

 protect the border, if possible, from excess of moisture. 



Grapes Changing Colour (A. M. R.).— We never heard of Black Ham- 

 burghs after they had acquired their full colour change to a lighter. The 

 Green Eose is not common, and we should like a few buds. „ , , [/ - 



Budding Manetti Rose Stocks (More).— If the Manetti stocks are large 

 enough you can bud them ; if not large enough, let them remain till next 

 year. The buds should not be inserted in the shoots of the current year; put 

 them into the stock. Bud as low as you can— as near the roots as you can. 

 You may bud below by scraping the soil away, or above the soil. The bud 

 should not be more than 4 inches above the roots. You should not hoe the 



earth over the buds. If a severe winter set in you may put on a little litter, 

 bnt not so as to exclude the air from the buds. There is a vast difference 

 between Manetti cuttings planted in the fine soil of a nursery and those 

 planted in general grounds. I saw at Mr. Keynes's in August, 1860, some 

 cuttings put in during the previous September. They were mighty bushes; 

 some of the wood as thick as my finger, and some of the plants from 3 to 

 4 feet high. — W. F. Radclyffe. 



Names of Roses [G. Strickland). —4 is Souvenir de Malmaison, and the 

 other somewhat similar in colour to Gloire de Dijon; but we cannot under- 

 take to name florists' flowers. (C. Z.). — Your Moss Rose is the White Bath. 

 Any nurseryman can supply it. 



Roses for Walls [Kent). — Put on your south wall any of these — Marechal 

 Niel, Celine Forestier, and Gloire de Dijon at not less than 10 feet apart. 

 They are yellow Roses, sweetly scented, and good and constant bloomers. For 

 coloured Roses, put Charles Lefebvre, crimson; Empereur de Maroc, maroon; 

 Souvenir de Malmaison, blush; John Hopper, reddish rose; Felix Genero, 

 reddish rose; Due de Cazes, purple crimson; Madame Victor Yerdier, rich 

 red; Duke of Edinburgh, brilliant scarlet; Edward Morren, light crimson; 

 Lady Suffield, rosy purplish crimson ; Baronne de Maynard, pure white. . On 

 your opposite wall put Sir Joseph Paxton, light crimson; Acidalie, white; 

 Madame Charles Crapelet; Souvenir de Dr. Jamain, maroon; Jules Mar- 

 gottin, light crimson; Baronne Provost, rose; Marguerite Bonnet, tinted 

 white, and very beautiful ; Achille Gonod, light crimson ; Madame Charles 

 Verdier, soft silvery rose; Gloire de Dncher, lake red; Leopold II., brilliant 

 scarlot rose. For clay soil tbe Briar is the best stock. 



Manetti- stocked Roses for Sandy Soil {R. Davies). — At page 47, for 

 Vicomtesse de Cazes, read Vicomtesse de Vezins. — W. F. Radclyffe. 



Cherry Tree Unfruitful (G. A.). — The cause of the unfruitfulness of 

 your Cherry tree is no doubt due to the cultivation of the border in which it 

 is planted. The tillage necessary to grow Potatoes upon it keeps the roots of 

 the Cherry from reaching the surface, and, their action being impaired, the 

 jruit is not perfected. 



Gooseberry Caterpillar (C. A. S.). — The only safe present remedy is 

 hand-picking. In the autumn cover the surface of the ground round the 

 bushes 2 or 3 inches thick with spent tan from the tanyard, and leave it there 

 till spring, when you may dig it in, and you will find no more caterpillar. 



Yew Hedge [H. T.). — We would recommend you to leave the Yew hedge 

 as it is till next spring, and then cut it down. It will not suffer in the least 

 by being cut down to 6 feet, but will, on the contrary, be much improved by 

 the operation. 



Air Roots on Vines (H. A. B.). — There is little doubt that the cause of 

 air roots on Vines is a deficiency of power at the root. Were the root in a 

 healthy condition these air roots would not be formed. Being there, they are 

 not injurious in themselves, though they indicate injury at the root, and 

 rather assist to nourish the leaves and fruit with food which they do not 

 derive in sufficient quantity from the root. You had better in autumn ex- 

 amine your Vine border and bring the roots of the Vines to the surface, giving 

 them some fresh soil and a good top-dressing. 



Gas Stove {Stafford). — We cannot possibly give you the cost of a gas stove 

 per week, as that will depend upon the price you pay for your gas and the 

 quantity you use. We have had no experience of Clarke's gas stove. 



Orchid-house and Conservatory Arrangement {Beginner). — The 

 shade from the morning sun will do no harm tg your Orchid- houses, and we 

 quite approve of your proposed arrangement. The group of houses will be 

 more artistic, and look better than if Orchid-houses and conservatory were in 

 the same line. 



Greenhouse Aspect {Mrs. Bain).— "None of the aspects referred to are so 

 good as a south one, as that may be shaded if wanted. We should prefer the 

 aspect that enjoys the afternoon sun to that only exposed to the morning 

 sun. 



Heating (TF.il/.). — A pipe with an inch bore will answer; but no doubt if 

 you could employ an inch and a half it would be better. 



Orchard-house and Vinery Borders (H. G.). — As you are so near gravel 

 and water, the simplest mode would be to make your inside and outside 

 borders above the ground level. If you can fill the space between the ground 

 level and the subsoil gravel and water with rubble all the better, and if the 

 soil were at all fair we would mix that with the new ioam, &c, to form the 

 border. But for the expense, howevor, we would rather have all fresh loam, 

 though such is not absolutely necessary. The arches in the front wall are all 

 right, Dut we would have none in the back wall, otherwise the Morellos Cherries 

 you plant on the north side of the back wall would soon rob the trees inside. 

 For that wall Apricots will do, if you do not use much artificial heat. They 

 require great care then. Peaches would be more easily managed, as they 

 stand more fire heat than the Apricot. 



Greenhouse Lilies <J. W. Bond). — You may put the Lilies out if you 

 require the room, but not necessarily. Do not disturb them in the pots, only 

 top-dress them ; or if they require larger pots shift them without disturbing 

 the roots. The drying of the soil did not affect the germination of the seeds. 

 They must be imperfect or old. 



Achtmenes Culture (<?. B, R.). — Your system of managing Achimenes is 

 good. Pans are good, but potB, too, do well. The plants are covered with 

 thrips. Several early smokings with tobacco not overstrong, and syringing 

 with clear soot water at 100°, might have cured them. You may do so now, 

 but from the forwardness of your plants it is rather late, and we should be 

 more anxious about the tubers for the future. 



Onions for Autumn Sowing {St. Edmunds). — Giant Rocca and Tripoli 

 Flat Italian Red, White Italian, and Globe. They should be sown from the 

 10th to the 15th of August. 



Gathering Rhubarb Late {A. E. F. C). — It is not advisable to gather 

 Rhubarb after the middle of July, but as this is a late season you may safely 

 take what you require for preserving, leaving, however, to each root a good 

 number of stalks untouched. 



Planting Strawberries {F. J.).— You must plant at once, so as to secure 

 a good crop next year. H you have the plants by you we should advise you 

 to layer the runners in small pots, and when well rooted plant them out 2 feet 

 apart every way. The ground should be well trenched and manured. Water 

 at planting, and in dry weather until established. Sir Joseph Paxton, Presi- 

 dent, and Dr. Hogg, are excellent sorts succeeding each other. Plant as soon 

 after this as you can procure runners. For the cuttings of Geraniums it is 

 not necessary to more than dig the ground, and then put on from 4 to 6 inches 

 of soil, which should consist of light loam two parts, and equal parts of leaf 

 soil and sand. Put in the cuttings about 2 inches apart. The more sunny 



