August 1, 1S72. \ 



JOUBNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



101 



Orange Trees, &c. ! E. M. M.). — The clayey loam would hare been better 

 for the purpose of plastering up the split in the hark of the Orange tree if it 

 had been mixed with cow dung, which would have kept it cooler and moister. 

 The decayed Oranges will not do much for it as a manure. Use sheep dung 

 or rich farmyard manure. Plaster the bark of the Lime tree with the clay- 

 and cow-dung mixture. "Wash the bark of the Beech tree with strong brine. 

 Tour Jasmine will so~n develope into blooming condition. 



Liltum auratum (J. T. G.). — We cannot tell what is the matter with your 

 Xjilium auratum, for you give us no particulars as to the soil it is in, or the 

 treatment it has received. It succeeds best inpeat or other vegetable mould. 



Planting- a Vinery (A Six-years Subscriber). — l'ou may plant your 

 Tines at once; it will give them a chance to establish themselves before the 

 autumn, consequently they will start stronger next season. The best Grape 

 Tines to plant in a cool house are Black Hamburgh and Black IVIuscat of 

 Alexandria; the best white, Buckland Sweetwater aud Foster's White Seed- 

 ling; for a Muscat house, Muscat of Alexandria aud Black Alicante. The 

 best late-keeping Grape is Lady Downe's. Plant the Tines 2 feet 9 inches 

 apart. 



Treatment of Orchard- house Trees (TF. C.). — By a little management 

 you may keep your trees within bounds. The young wood should bethinned- 

 out and the trees cut-back to a certain extent annually. If you were to cut 

 them back too much all at once you would fail in securing a crop the follow- 

 ing season. We keep up a supply of healthy well-furnished trees in our 

 orchard house (all the trees in pots) by purchasing four or five "maidens" 

 annually, and faggoting as many more of those which may be badly fur- 

 nished or out of order. 



Achimenes Shoots Browned (G. J. B.). — The shoots may he browned 

 owing to the sun's rays falling powerfully on them whilst wet. Give them 

 more heat, and shade them from bright sun. The tops probably die off from 

 want of heat and from too much water overhead. Maintain a moist atmo- 

 sphere, but avoid watering overhead, especially after the flower-buds show. 



Corn Bluebottle for Bouquets (Idem). — To have it in flower in May 

 and Jane the seed should be sown in April or May of the previous year, and 

 the plants pricked-out when large enough to handle in good, rich, light soil in 

 au open situation. In September plant them out in a warm sheltered spot, 

 where they will flower early in summer. Same place the plants in small pots, 

 winter them in cold frames, and plant-out in spring; sometimes they are 

 shifted into larger pots, their growth encouraged, and then flowered in the 

 greenhouse. The double-flowering dwarf sorts are best for the latter pur- 

 pose. Sow them in July, prick off the seedlings in small pots, shift them 

 "into larger pots, and grow them on shelves near the glass in the greenhouse, 

 and they will flower in early summer. 



Ripening Melons (E.). — After a Melon is set and begins Jo swell, say 

 from the time it is the size of a hen's egg, about fifty days are required for its 

 full swelling and ripening — a few days more or less, according to the weather. 

 Tou will be able to tell when the fruit is ready to cut by its changing in a 

 Beechwood Melon to a mottled yellow, by its giving off a fine aroma, and by 

 the footstalk parting. It is well, however, to cut with the stalk on, taking 

 notice when there is a slight cracking of the footstalk ; then cut it, and 

 keep it for a day or two in the full sun. 



Amaranthus salictfolius Culture (Amateur). — It is a half-hardy 

 annual. We consider that north of the Humber it is best grown as a tender 

 annual, sowing it in March in a hotbed, and potting-off the seedlings in small 

 pots when they have made two or three rough leaves; afterwards continue 

 them in the hotbed, and shift them into larger pots as those in which they 

 are become full of roots. In this way fine plants may he had in 7-ineii 

 pots, and in 9-inch pots handsome specimens a yard or more high. The 

 latter are suitable for greenhouse decoration. For this purpose we grow ours 

 in frames until the middle of June, giving them plenty of room and air. 

 Primrose (C. B., GodaJming). — We have never seen this variegation before. 

 Portugal Laurel from Cuttings (Julia). — Put in the cuttings of Por- 

 tugal and Green Bay Laurels in August, and to the latter let there he about 

 auinch of the wood of last year attached. 



Holly Hedge (Tree Guard). — In such a case, the best thing yon can do is 

 to wash the hedge occasionally with a solution of Gishurst compound, 2 ozs. 

 to the gallon. To pick off the insects would be an endless labour. 



Purple, Bronze, and Golden Edging Plants (Young Gardener).— -We 

 will not attempt to name all such plants, but we have found the following 

 good : — Ajuga reptans rubra, dark purple leaves, 6 inches ; Perillu nankinensis, 

 dark purple, almost black, 18 inches; and Dell's Crimson Beet, dark bronzy 

 purple, 1 foot. The last two are too tall for edgings, except in very large 

 arrangements. The only bronze that we shall name is Oxahs tropa^olpides, 

 dark bronze, 6 inches. Golden edging plants are more numerous, as Arabis 

 alpina variegata aurea, 6 inches; Coprosma Baueriana variegata, 1 foot, but 

 it may be kept to 6 inches by pinching; Pyrethrum Golden Feather, G inches ; 

 Sedum Fabaria foliis variegatis ; Thymus citriodorus aureus. 6 inches ; and 

 Tinea elegantissima, 6 inches, if well pegged. A purple-tipped edging plant is 

 Sempervivum californicum, growing only a few inches high. 



Ice Plant Culture (Idem). — It is raised from seed, which may be sown 

 •early in April in rich light soil, barely covering the seed with fine soil, 

 then water gently, and place the pots near the glass in a house or frame in a 

 temperature of 60° to 75°. The soil should not be kept more than moist, and 

 air must be freely admitted, otherwise the plants will damp off. Pot them 

 off singly in 3-inch pots when they can be handled, place them in a gentle 

 liotbed, be careful not to overwater, and shade them from bright sun for a 

 few days until they are again established, then admit air freely, and water 

 orly to keep the plants from flagging. Harden them well off, and plant them 

 out early in June in rich light soil, in an open warm situation, watering 

 -at planting. Any light loamy soil, with a free admixture of leaf soil or well- 

 decayed manure, will grow them well. The shoots and leaves are used as a 

 garnish for fruits. 



Figs Mildewing (C. B. H.). — We think the fruit would ripen perfectly if 

 ■you were to -maintain a drier atmosphere, giving a gentle fire heat, which 

 -would assist the ripening and admit of freer air-giving. The laterals of Tines 

 should be stopped at the first leaf, and this repeatedly thi-ougho.it the season, 

 stopping them at eveiy additional leaf of growth. They may be brought 

 closer in after the wood becomes firm and brown, but do not lemove them 

 •altogether until the leaves begin to turn yellow. 



Ity Borders. — In reference to Ivy borders, Mr. W. S. Burton, of the 

 Inner Circle Regent's Park, says : — " Noticing your remarks upon Ivy borders, 

 lie, in your last number to eorrespon dents, I venture to say ths I., should you- 

 ■of any friend of your3 be passing this way, having five minutes'tinie at their 



disposal, I could show a growth ■ of Ivy worth seeing, and I shall be happy to 

 show it. I have, but not here, grown Ivy borders, say 9 inches in diameter, 

 kept cut hard hack, giving the idea of an immense rich green rope." _, 



Orchard-house Peaches (An Amateur). — We think the fault in your 

 early Peaches is entirely owing to defective setting. We had a Peach house 

 this season that, when in bloom, had scarcely three hours' sunshine. An 

 hour's sunshine beats all our care otherwise. As to perfecting the wood of 

 early-fruiting Peach trees, it is advisable not only to give less water, but even, 

 contrary to your idea, to give less air, in order to harden and mature the 

 wood early; but this must be done with some judgment, for much dryness 

 will cause the buds to drop, and too much confined heat will do the same ; 

 hut, nevertheless, an early ripening of the wood from comparative dryness at 

 the roots, and a somewhat dry and higher temperature, are the first essentials 

 for forcing early the next season. 



Tinert (A Market Gardener). — From what we can make out of the bank 

 you refer to, and the winds which sweep over the place so mercilessly, we 

 should decide on having a lean-to instead of a span-roofed house, with venti- 

 lation at the top and front in the usual way. If you gave us a rough plan of 

 your ground, with a section showing the incline, &c, we might be able to 

 advise better. Without such a guide, what we should recommend might 

 prove quite unsuitable. 



Tine Leaves Burned and Scalded (G. B.). — It is quite possible the 

 Tines would have been better of being stopped earlier, and the laterals from 

 the main shoots repeatedly pinched back. The size of the foliage indicates 

 that the Tines are strong and healthy. The blotched and burned appear- 

 ance of the leaves has no connection with syringing or not syringing: it 

 chiefly arises from not giving air early enough in the morning. Sometimes, 

 though in a more limited sense, it is owing to bad, scored, and noduled glass. 

 In your case we should say that the evil is owing to heated, moist, enclosed ah. 

 Concrete Walks (A. B.). — We are sorry we cannot tell the proportions 

 and preparations. 



Melons not Setting (Rude). — We should attribute their not setting to a 

 deficiency of bottom heat and ventilation; the deficiency of the latter may 

 cause too close and moist an atmosphere. Thin-out the principal shoots to a 

 foot apart, and stop the laterals or secondary shoots at the first joint beyond 

 the fruit, lining the bed, and, if need be. watering, so as not to wet the sur- 

 face of the bed more than can be avoided. Admit air freely, leaving a little 

 on at night, and impregnate the female flowers when fully expanded, choosing 

 the early part of a fine day. 



Peas for August Sowing (Idem). — If you did not reside in the Isle of 

 Wight we should say that it is too late to sow Peas, but you may sow any of 

 the early kinds, as First and Best, Kentish Invicta, and Little Gem, the latter 

 a very dwarf kind, which may bo sown in rows 2 feet apart. 



Liming Heavy Soil (J.McQ.). — As your land has been heavily manured 

 for the past ten years, it will be much benefited by liming in March ; draw 

 the lime on to the land in dry weather, place it in small heaps, and cover it 

 with soil. When it falls, but whilst it is quick, strew it over the ground, and 

 as soon afterwards as convenient dig it in. Ten tons per acre will not be too 

 much for your heavy clay soil. 



Fruiting One Tine in Two Houses (Hamburgh). — It is best to grow 

 the Tine with all its branches in one house, so that the Grapes may ripeu at 

 one time. You may, however, take a rod into the cool house, and as a result 

 of the lower temperature the Grapes will ripen at* a later period than those in 

 the warmer house. We are not prepared to say what the ultimate effect will 

 be on the Tine, but we think such a mode of proceeding will interfere with 

 the season of rest, and be injurious to the well-doing of the Tine. If we 

 were to try the proposed plan we should take a cane from near the root of 

 the Tine, and introduce it into the second house, without allowing foliage or 

 Grapes to be produced in the warm house, and in this case we do not think 

 any injurious effect would be produced. Should you try it we shall be glad 

 to know the result. 



Training Tines out of Doors (Glevin). — Leave the upright rods 15 to 

 IS inches apart. 



Tines Scalded (A Seven-years Subscriber).— ■Your Tines that have lost 

 the principal leaves from scalding will have the eyes to which they belonged 

 imperfectly developed, and not improbably they will not fruit well next 

 season. Keep the laterals well stopped to one leaf of each successive growth, 

 and we think you will have a good growth if not a fair crop of fruit, provid- 

 ing you secure the thorough ripening of the wood. 



Sowing Eucalyptus and Wellingtonla Seeds (Idem). — The seeds are 

 best sown in spring; those of the Eucalyptus in a hotbed, and those of the 

 Wellingtonia in a pan placed in a cold frame, keeping close and just moist 

 until the plants appear, then admit air freely. In autumn prick-off an inch 

 apart in store pots or pans, and winter in a cold house or frame; in spring 

 plant-out in nursery lines 6 inches apart, and the plants 3 inches apart in the 

 rows. In two years double the distance, and after two years they will be fit 

 to plant-out finally. The Eucalyptuses should be potted-off singly when they 

 show the second leaves, he returned to the hotbed, and be removed to a 

 greenhouse after they have become well established. 

 Seeds (James Smith). — No. 1, Abrus preeatorius; 2, Andropogon cernnnm. 

 Names of Plants (A Subscriber). — 1, Trifolium stellatum; 2, Malva syl- 

 vestris; 4, Centaurea Cyanus; 5, Shrivelled up; 6, Calluna vulgaris; 7, Poly- 

 gonum Convolvulus. (P. H., Gardener). — Spiraea arieefolia. l-Hf.). — We can- 

 not name such small pieces of plants. (John S.). — Terbascum floccosum ; 

 Menispermum canadense ; Polygonum Persicaria. (G. S.). — 1, Solidago gracilis 

 Poir (?); 2, Teronica longifoha; 3, Epilobium angustifolium ; 4, Geranium 

 pratense; 5, Orobus albus; 6, Campanula rapunculoides. 



POULTEY, BEE, AND PIGEON OHBOIHCLE. 



LAVENDER POISON TO FOWLS. 

 I have lately lost two valuable Light Brahma cocks in a very 

 singular way. In preparing a garden next door for a new tenant 

 two large lavender trees were taken up, and put int=> my fowl 

 yard for the purpose of being burnt ; in this yard were twenty 

 Light Brahma hens and one cock. On my visiting the yard 

 shortly afterw arda I found the cock dead, and several of the hens 

 looking bad ly T?he birds were at once removed, and the trees 



