August 20, 1872. ] 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



177 



rich or not well drained. Gumming is sometimes caused by injury to the 

 bark from ties cutting it, &c. Syringe your Scarlet Runners "well, give air 

 abundantly night and day, and water well at the roots. They would do best 

 out of doors at this season of the year. 



Heating a Vine Boeder (A. C. Cade). — If you want very early Grapes, 

 say to be ripe early in April, it would be a decided advantage to have the 

 border heated from hot-water pipes placed underneath, and ii well managed 

 we think it would pay. Failures have often occurred with heated borders, 

 generally from overheating the pipes, and not giving the border sufficient 

 water. 



Management of Young Vines (.4 Cottage Gardener). — As each of your 

 young Vines has made one strong shoot they will very probably bear fruit 

 next year, but you ought only to take three or four bunches from each. Cut 

 the canes back to about 6 or 7 feet from the ground, Do not allow water 

 from the sink to drain into the border. You may drain it into a cesspool, 

 and after diluting it with clear water apply it to the roots when the Vines are 

 growing freely. Black Hamburgh is the most suitable variety. It is not 

 true that the finest fruit grows farthest from the root. 



Show-boxes for Roses (Cornubia). — The following are Mr. Reynolds 

 Hole's directions for making them: — "Any carpenter can make them from 

 1-inch deal. 



Length. Breadth. Height. 



For 24 Roses, 4 feet. 1 foot 6 inches. Back of bos, 6 inches, front 4. 

 » 18 „ 3 „ „ 



„ 12 „ 2 feet 2 in. „ „ „ 



,, ,6 „ 1 foot 6 in. „ „ „ 



The covers, being 7J inches in depth at the back, and 5 inches in front, 4 feet 

 1 inch in length, 1 foot 7 inches in breadth, and having a narrow beading 

 within the four sides, half an inch from the bottom of the lid, overlap the 

 boxes, leaving ample room for the 'Roses, and are secured for travelling by 

 stout leather straps. "Within the boxes some exhibitors have holes pierced at 

 equal distances on a uniform surface of wood; but as Roses differ in size, it 

 is more convenient to have the facility of placing them where we please, and 

 for this purpose it is desirable to have strong laths (three-fourths of an inch 

 in depth, andl inch seven-eighths in width) extending the length of the box. 

 These laths should be six in number, and should be nailed on two strong 

 pieces of wood, crossing the box one at each end, 2 inches below the surface. 

 The upper and lower laths should be fixed one-eighth of an iuch within the 

 box, and the four remaining so arranged that there will be five interstices 

 1^ inch in width — three for the Roses, and two merely to reduce the weight. 

 There will be a space of IJ inch between the laths and the upper edge of the 

 box, to be filled as follows : Cover the laths with sheets of brown paper, two 

 deep, and cut to fit the box, and upon these place the best moss you can 

 obtain. The Roses are placed in tubes of zinc 4£ inches in length, 2 inches 

 wide at the top, gradually tapering until they become 1 inch in width at the 

 centre, the tops being moveable. This top is taken off, and the stalk of the 

 flower being brought through until the Rose is held securely, it is replaced 

 upon the tubes, previously filled with pure rain water." 



Pears on North Wall (F. H. Law).— Probably the Pears you name may 

 bear fruit on a north wall in the north of England, but they will not ripen, 

 and will only disappoint you. We think Moreno Cherries and Red Currants 

 the best fruit trees to plant on a north aspect. 



Pear Tree Unfruitful (Idem). — You have evidently a late worthless 

 variety, which you had better cut over, and regraft with a sort that succeeds 

 in your neighbourhood. 



Rating Market Garden (L. if/.). — We do not understand what you mean 

 "by "rates to the rector." He is entitled to tithe yourmarket garden. Grow- 

 ing garden crops for sale constitutes the ground on which they are grown a 

 market garden. 



Sending Nuts to Australia (S. B.). — Put them in a small cask in layers 

 alternating with dry sand. We cannot give an opinion as to whether they 

 will pay or even flourish, for Australia is a country including even a' tropical 

 climate. 



Muscle Plum for Stocks (G. S.). — The best are raised from seed sown as 

 soon as the Plum is ripe, in drills 2 inches deep, and a foot apart. In the 

 autumn of the next year the saplings should be taken up, their tap roots 

 shortened, and then planted in nursery lines, to remain one year, and then 

 cut down to within two buds of the surface. One shoot of the next year is to 

 be retained for budding or grafting on. 



Cork for Rockwork (A Subscriber). — It has been advertised by the 

 Lisbon Corkwood Company, 28, Upper Thames Street, London, and is sup- 

 plied by many of the London seedsmen. 

 -Hollyhocks at the Royal Horticultural Society's Show. — The cut 

 spikes referred to at page 149 as taking the first prize, and which were 

 ascribed to Mr. W. Chater, were shown by Lord Hawke. 



Hot-water Pipes for Early Forcing {Bob).— For a vinery 18 feet by 14, 

 height of ridge about 20 feet, span- roof , you will require three 4- inch pipes to 

 commence forcing the first week in November. 



Boiler for Small Conservatory (J. Smith). — We should ourselves pre- 

 fer a saddle-back boiler from 24 to 30 inches in length. 



Glass for Vinery (E. C.).— The glass and size proposed will answer well. 



Black Mildew on Roses— Vinegar to Orange Fungus {Charles Smith). 

 — The leaf sent is affected with black mildew or spot. It is the effect rather 

 than the cause of disease, and arises from insufficient root action, so that the 

 flow of sap is checked. Give the plants a good watering with liquid manure, 

 and syringe with guano water 2 ozs. to the gallon, well stirred up, and only 

 the clear liquid used after the mixture has been allowed to settle. We are 

 not surprised at the foliage of your Roses being injured by the application of 

 vinegar. We have tried a very weak solution of sulphuric acid and water. 

 It certainly, like the vinegar, checks the mildew, and will kill the orange 

 fungus, but unfortunately it kills the foliage as well. We have heard of but- 

 termilk being successful as a cure; have any of our readers tried it? You 

 need not be afraid of your trees dying from their losing their leaves from 

 black mildew ; they will start afresh if properly watered and manured. The 

 alternation of temperature and very hot sun have been very trying for some 

 kinds of foliage. 



Seedling Geranium (J. C). — The trasses are very large and the growth 

 robust, but no one can judge of its merits as a bedder without seeing a plant 

 growing. 



Flowering Chlidanthtjs fragrans (Gf. S.). — This increases so rapidly by 



offsets that it is difficult, as you say, to flower it. We do not know of any 



treatment calculated to lessen the production of offsets. Probably your best 

 plan will be to grow the offsets to a flowering size, and when they begin 

 splitting up into offsets discard them. We have an idea that the tendency to 

 break up into offsets is produced by too liberal watering and treatment. We 

 should be glad of any information on the subject. 



Cutting Laurel and Holly Hedges {Esmeralda).— If they do not re- 

 quire more than cutting off the irregular growths of the current year, tho 

 early part of August is a good time, and it may be practised now ; but if the- 

 hedges are overgrown and need cutting-in severely to the old wood, it should 

 be deferred until showery weather early in April, when you may cut back as 

 much as you like, going over the hedges again early in August, and removing- 

 any irregularities of growth. 



Ltlium speciosum (lancifolium) and Gloxinias after Flowering 

 {Idem). — Keep the Lilium moderately supplied with water in an open warm 

 position, not removing the flowering stem or the stems, whether they have 

 flowered or not, until they are quite yellow; then cut them away, repot tho 

 plants, and keep them in a cool house safe from frost with the soil no more 

 than moist. After flowering, the Gloxinias should only have enough water to 

 keep the leaves from flagging, and when these are withered cut them away 

 with the stems, and set them in a house with a temperature of not less than 

 45°. They should be kept from becoming dust-dry, to prevent which the pots 

 may be placed on a damp bottom, or be sprinkled with water once a-week. 



Propagating Coleus Verschaffelti, Iresine Lindeni, and Cen- 

 taurea (G. F. R.).— The cuttings of the Coleus and Iresine should be put in 

 now, taking off the growing points about 3 inches long and inserting tho 

 Coleus singly in 3-inch pots, the Iresine round the sides of pots or pans at 

 about an inch apait. Both strike readily in a temperature of 70° if kept close, 

 moist, and shaded. When the roots reach the sides of the pots the Coleuses 

 should be shifted into 6-inch pots, taking out the points of the shoots, and 

 be kept in a house with a temperature of not less than 50° at night during 

 the winter, giving no more water than enough to keep the plants fresh. In 

 March you may make cuttings of every available shoot, and in a hotbed they 

 will speedily root. When they are rooted shift them into larger pots, keep 

 them well stopped so as to have them bushy, and encourage growth by afford- 

 ing plenty of heat, moisture, and light, either in a frame with a gentle heat, 

 or 'in a house ranging from 55° to 60° at night and 70° to 75° by day, and SO' 3 

 or more from sun heat, admitting air freely. By May they will be fine plants. 

 Harden them ofl gradually, and do not plant out before the first week in 

 June. The Iresine should be potted off singly in 3-inch pots when well 

 rooted, returned to the hotbed until established, then placed in a light airy 

 position in a house with the winter temperature named for the Coleus, stop- 

 ping the plants at 3 inches high, to cause them to branch. These will 

 produce shoots in spring, but they should be potted and their growth encou- 

 raged, and they will be nice plants by May. Cuttings put in during March 

 will also make good plants by May, but to secure these it is well to take up 

 the old plants in autumn before frost, pot them, and winter them in a cool 

 stove or warm greenhouse. They should produce a number of cuttings in 

 February or March, and these, if potted-off , stopped, and grown in heat will bo 

 fine plants in May. All should be well hardened off before pi anting out. June 

 is quite early enough. Of the Centaureas we like candidissima (ragusina) the 

 best. It may be raised from seed sown in a hotbed in March, potted off when 

 large enough to handle or when the rough leaves show, watering carefully. 

 If growth be encouraged the plants will be suitable for bedding-out at the 

 end of May. All succeed in a compost of tfwo parts sandy fibrous loam, one 

 part leaf soil, and a sixth of silver sand; but use one part of silver sand for 

 the cuttings, with a half-inch surfacing for the cutting pots for the Iresine. 



Nerine corusca not Flowering (0.).— The potting will not promote 

 flowering, but a firm soil, and keeping the plant under-potted will do so._ Re- 

 potting every second or third year is often enough. Good yellow loam is the 

 most suitable soil. Keep the plant dry when it is at rest, but to prevent the 

 roots drying up, set the pot on a saucer filled with sand, which should always 

 be kept wet". When growing, water freely. A light airy position in a green- 

 house is most suitable. 



Seedling Carnations Flowering (Idem). — The plants now showing fox- 

 flower will bloom so late that we should remove the flower-stems. Allowing 

 them to flower would weaken the plants. Their throwing up so early is not 

 a good sign. We presume they are not tree Carnations. If they are, take 

 them up about the middle of September, place them in 6-inch pots, and in a 

 house with a temperature of about 50° they will bloom finely. In their case 

 the flower-stems must not be removed. 



Removing Geranium Leaves (Idem).— la removing parti ally- decayed or 

 yellow leaves, take them off close to the stem. If left on, the stalk might 

 decay and affect the stem. 



Rose Cuttings (Idem).— The cuttings now well rooted should be potted 

 singly in 4-inch pots, return them to the cold frame, keep them rather close 

 and shaded until they are re-established, then admit air freely. Before frost 

 plunge the pots in coal ashes, and with the protection of mats over the lights 

 they will winter safely in a cold frame. 



Keeping Ripe Melons (A. B., Ireland).— "We know of no means of keep- 

 ing Melons after they are ripe, except putting them in a cool place, as an ica 

 house. They will keep much longer if they are cut when they first commence 

 ripening, and they are not much injured in flavour. 



Select Gooseberries (Idem). — None of the large show kinds have thin 

 skins. These are good — Bed: Hopley's Companion, Guido, Prince Albert, 

 Atlas, Huntsman, Top Sawyer. White : Whitesmith, Ostrich, Sheba's QuGen, 

 Wandering Girl, Tallyho, Smiling Beauty. Green : Angler, Wistaston Hero, 

 Elijah, Massy'e Heart of Oak, Conquering Hero, Thumper. Yellow: Two to 

 One, Marigold, Broom Girl, Bank's Dublin, Teazer, and Husbandman. We 

 are not aware that soil has any effect on the thickness of the. skin. 



Grub on Fruit-tree Leaves (F. Appleby). — It is the Slimy grub, larva 

 of a saw-fly, Selandria eethiops. Dust the trees with slacked quicklime. 



Insects (A. B.).— The pretty two-winged fly sent is the common'! Ort alls 

 pulchella. (T. Nicol . — The young Fir shoots are attacked by the common 

 Hylurgus piniperda, a species quite distinct from Strophozomus Coryli which 

 you previously sent as one of the causes of the mischief in question.— I. O. W. 



Names of Plants (F. G. S.).— Pedum Cspea. (Mrs. H. I.).— The Editors 

 cannot name the varieties of florists' flowers. They are too numerous and 

 too nearly alike to be distinguished from single blooms. (C. F.).— Antennaria 

 margaritacea, and a Sedum not in flower — S. Telephium, or near it. {M. D.). 

 — Verbascum phceniceum. [Downie). — 1, Gentiana Amarella; 2, Melampyrum 

 pratense; 3, Montia fentana. (Ella,).— A Muhlenbeckia (Polygon ace^), pro- 

 bably M. complexa or near it. (J. C.).—l, Blechnum boreale; 2, Nephrodium 



