October 3, 1872. ] 



JOOBNAL OF HOBTICULTUBE AND COTTAGE GABDENEB. 



273 



of a -widely-perforated rose, are very injurious. This is a sure 

 means of rotting the flowers and blotching the foliage while 

 yet undeveloped. On the whole, while they delight in an abun- 

 dant supply of water at the root, when in full growth syring- 

 ing should never be practised, further than a light dewing at 

 intervals after excessive dry heat ; but a humid warm atmo- 

 sphere is to be preferred, both to grow them well in, and to 

 keep them in healthy rich foliage. 



Culture from the Leaves. — There are various methods followed 

 in multiplying by this means. Some make incisions in the 

 main veins on the lower surface of the leaves, and lay them flat 

 on a bed of silver sand in the propagating house. Over the 

 cuts small pebbles are placed, to prevent the leaf shifting until 

 roots are formed ; and in the course of time small crowns are 

 formed, and each makes separate plants, which will flower tho 

 following summer if carefully ripened and preserved over the 

 winter. Another, and I think a better plan, is to cut up the 

 leaves into slips, following the direction of the veins, and 

 running the knife out without damage to the margin. This 

 operation should be performed with a very keen-edged knife, so 

 that the tissue of the leaves is not lacerated. By this means 

 the leaves may be divided into a number of wedge-like pieces, 

 narrowing to the bases. These are inserted into pots filled 

 with silver sand intermixed with a little peat soil ; and after 

 moistening the body of the compost cover with a bell-glass, or 

 place the tops inside the glass case, if the house is furnished 

 with such. Eeep moderately close, and never wet the leaves 

 while applying water to the roots, at the same time being care- 

 ful that the cuttings do not suffer from damp. Under such 

 favourable conditions roots will soon be formed, to be suc- 

 ceeded by bulbs and minute leaves ; but it is the best plan to 

 pot off singly as soon as well rooted, so that the progress of 

 the two latter is not checked, and that nice plump bulbs may 

 be produced before the fall of the year. After the rooted 

 portions of the leaves have been put separately into pots, have 

 them watered and returned to the place they formerly occupied, 

 and give them the same watchful attendance as hitherto, not 

 once allowing the soil to get dried up, which would perma- 

 nently cripple their growth, until indications of their going to 

 rest are shown at the end of summer. No more water will be 

 required after such symptoms, except enough to prevent the 

 soil from getting dust dry, and thereby causing the bulbs to get 

 shrivelled up. 



General Attention. — Early in the February following examine 

 the bulbs, after having wintered them in a warm dryish place, 

 and in all probability signs of fresh action will be seen in some 

 of them. Those should at once be repotted into- pots of some- 

 what greater dimensions, using a compost of equal parts loam, 

 leaf mould, and silver sand, adding a little well-reduced cow 

 manure, but only a little : sift the whole through a half-inch 

 sieve, crock the pots abundantly, and cover the drainage with 

 rotten moss, then fill with the compost to the rim of the pot, 

 place a little heap of silver sand in the centre of each pot, 

 and insert the bulbs amongst the sand. Bather more than 

 cover the bulbs, and press the soil moderately firm together ; 

 and when all have been potted, plunge them into a bottom heat 

 of 70°, but do not give any water for some days ; water has a 

 tendency to rot the bulbs while yet in a partially inactive state. 

 When the plants begin to grow kindly, they may then be 

 freely watered, always heating the water to the temperature of 

 the soil. Allow abundant root-accommodation by fresh shifts 

 when the roots have reached the outside of the balls of soil, 

 and admit air cautiously ; at the same time they should not be 

 kept wholly without air if the weather is at all favourable. By 

 pursuing these simple instructions handsome plants will reward 

 the efforts of the cultivator. — A. Kerr (in The Gardener). 



WOEK FOE THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



Trench and ridge every spare inch of ground ; however, to 

 have vacant ground to any extent in the present age is in 

 my opinion a sign of bad gardening, especially if drainage and 

 a proper rotation of cropping be systematically followed. Plant 

 out the main crop of Cabbages for cutting in May, June, and 

 July. Let the ground be thoroughly manured, as they will 

 occupy it a long time, producing after cutting a most abundant 

 crop of Coleworts in the summer and winter, especially the 

 Vanack and Early York. Prick out all the small plants in beds 

 to stand the winter, likewise plants of Bed Cabbage. Trans- 

 plant Cauliflower plants in frames, hand-glasses, or matted 

 beds for spring planting. A few of the largest plants may be 



potted and kept in a cold frame ; they will suffer no cheek in 

 the spring when planted out, and will come in very early. 

 Earth-up Broccoli, Green Kale, and Savoys as high as possible 

 without injuring their leaves. Store the late Onions, and ex- 

 amine the earliest ones ; likewise store Carrots, Beet, Salsafy, 

 Scorzonera, and SMrret in sand. The Parsnips are better in 

 the ground and protected with a little litter in frosty weather. 

 A good piece of early or second early Potatoes ought to be 

 planted this month when the ground is dry and suitable. It 

 is quite possible te have good Potatoes nearly ready for lifting 

 before the disease can do much harm in our climate. This 

 has been proved three years in succession, and the seasons 

 different in earliness and dryness. It may be said that early 

 Potatoes failed this year as much as the late ones ; this is true- 

 to a certain extent where they were not ripe and ready to take 

 up by the middle of July. Planting in February or early in 

 spring is best in wet soils ; the crop will be as early as, or earlier 

 than the autumn-planted one, as the sets need not be buried so 

 deeply. Either way, I find planting on ridges the best, the rows- 

 made very wide, so that Cauliflower, Broccoli, and other vege- 

 tables can be planted between them in the spring. No manure- 

 is used, but charred earth is laid 5 or 6 inches deep in the 

 drills above the sets, which are planted whole ; the frost never 

 penetrates so as to hurt them through this substance. Pot- 

 Mint, Tarragon, and Sorrel for forcing in winter. Gather 

 Tomatoes as soon as they begin to colour ; if there be danger 

 from frost the latest may be cut off in bunches and ripened 

 in-doors in a good dry heat. As soon as the Cabbages, Let- 

 tuces, Cauliflowers, <fec, are transplanted, the kitchen garden 

 should be thoroughly cleared of all weeds, cut vegetables, and 

 decaying substances. Where chips of wood, old pea-stakes, or 

 hedge-clippings can be procured, it is a good plan to keep a 

 fire constantly burning and charring every sort of refuse ; keep 

 the material for spring cropping, it wiU be found the most 

 useful of composts. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



Let the planting of fruit trees be proceeded with by the end 

 of the month where it is necessary to do so, avoiding deep and 

 highly manured borders, draining well for stagnant water, and 

 planting high if the situation is naturally humid. Proceed 

 with gathering Apples and Pears on all favourable opportu- 

 nities ; set the former in heaps to sweat, then wipe and ex- 

 amine them singly, and finally store them away on dry open 

 shelves in layers. Some sorts'of Pears must be kept warmer 

 in order to become mellow. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



Where evergreens are to be removed let it be done as soon 

 as possible or circumstances will admit, for the most favourable- 

 season for this kind of work will soon be past. The scarce 

 varieties of zonal and variegated Geraniums should not be 

 risked in beds too long ; they had better be taken up and 

 potted immediately the weather becomes at all threatening. 

 After potting, it will be a good plan to place them on a gentle 

 bottom heat in a pit or a house where the atmosphere can be 

 kept sufficiently dry to prevent the foliage being injured. So 

 circumstanced they will soon become established, when they 

 may be stored away for the winter in a cool dry house where 

 they will be out of the reach of frost. Any beds which may 

 have become shabby, and which are to be planted with bulbs 

 or anything else for spring decoration, should be cleared at 

 once and replanted. Keep grass short and frequently rolled;, 

 so as in some measure to prevent the growth of moss and keep 

 the surface firm and smooth ; also roll gravel walks frequently 

 in damp weather, so as to render them smooth and comfort- 

 able to walk on. I would recommend those of your readers 

 who are fond of making experiments to cultivate the yellow 

 Picotee, being certain there is ample room for improvement, 

 and that those who persevere in well-directed efforts to 

 ameliorate them will reap an abundant harvest. Auriculas 

 will require to be placed in their winter quarters ; being 

 perfectly hardy, many are destroyed or materially injured by 

 being overmuch cared for- Too much moisture must be- 

 a voided, and a dry airy situation should be selected for the- 

 frameto stand in during the winter. Plant offsets, and prepare- 

 for the best beds of Tulips. Take advantage of dry weather- 

 to turn and sweeten the beds. Small pipings of Pinks are 

 often dragged out of the ground by worms ; carefully attend 

 to them, and refasten where required. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



Early Chrysanthemums wiU now be in a forward state, and 

 such as show their buds prominently should be placed under 

 glass if it is desirable to have them in bloom as soon as 



