• October 31, 1872. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



353 



those -which have been properly transplanted. Those which have not been 

 frequently transplanted are not worth planting. j^g J ,;^ 



Guernsey. Lilies after Flowering (C. E.). — Keep them on a shelf in 

 the greenhouse, and well supplied with water until the leaves turn yellow, 

 about nest May or June, and after that do not water at the surface of the 

 pots until they begin to grow again in autumn, but keep the pots on saucers 

 filled with sand which should not be allowed to become dry in summer, or at 

 any time. The bulbs may flower nest autumn, but it is rarely they do so, for 

 being taken np so near the time of their blooming, they are so much weakened 

 that they rarely flower the second year. 



Tuberoses not Flowering (Idem).— Continue the tubers in the pots, 

 lessening the supply of water, and keep them dry after December. In March 

 repot them, removing all the old soil that comes away freely from the roots, 

 also the offsets; pot singly in 6- inch pots, just covering the tubers to the 

 neck. Use two parts light turfy loam, and one part leaf soil or very rotten 

 manure. Place the pots in a hotbed of 70° to 75°, and continue them there 

 until a good root-growth has been made; when the tops have advanced to 

 about 6 inches or so gradually withdraw the pots from the hotbed, and place 

 them in a warm part of the greenhouse, or light airy part of a vinery. Keep 

 the plants well watered, and frequently syringed so as to prevent red spider. 



Heating Peach House (Idem).— We do not know the terra cotta stoves 

 to which you allude, and do not think you could do better than heat by hot 

 water. Two 4- inch pipes (allow and return), along the front and one end will 

 be sufficient, and we should advise you to take another estimate ; the one you 

 have received appears very much too high, probably owing to the kind of 

 boiler employed. Write to those advertising in our columns, stating what 

 you require, and sending a plan of the house. 



Forcing Lily of the Valley (T. E.)—The best way is to take up the 

 roots carefully, those with plump round crowns, and place them in pans or 

 boxes, filling-in the interstices with rich turfy loam made fine. Place them 

 on a bed of leaves or dung with a bottom heat of 65 : , let them remain there 

 a fortnight or three weeks, then put on the lights of the frame, keep covered 

 with mats until the flower-stems are an inch above the soil with their lower 

 flower-bads, then espose them fully to light, and the leaves will soon become 

 green, and the flowers espand. The temperature of the frame should range 

 from 55° to 65\ After the turn of the year bottom heat is not essential. 

 We place our roots on the wooden stage that rests with the laths on the pipes, 

 eo that the plants in the pans and boxes receive some warmth. The tem- 

 perature is 55° to 60°, 70° or more by day with sun heat and plenty of air. 

 When the first flowers open they are placed in a house with a temperature of 

 45" to 5CT. We force about a dozen pans or boxes of this lovely flower fort- 

 nightly, from November to April. Meyen's " Outlines of the Geography of 

 Plants," published by the Ray Society, and Masters's (t Vegetable Teratology." 



Various (An Amateur). — Tour plants in a room will be injured by the 

 1 through" draught; strive to avoid it. The window will afford you all the 

 ventilation you require. The main point is to give a change of atmosphere, 

 and to give no more water than is absolutely necessarv to keep them fresh. 

 Madame Treyve Pear, like many other kinds, is very late and considerably 

 below the usual size this season. We think you have the right sort. Pears 

 ought not to be kept in a higher temperature than 45 1 " 1 to 50 ' when ripening. 

 None of the Abutilons that we have seen is so good as A. Thompsoni, but 

 we have no doubt they are useful for greenhouse decoration. The Beet for 

 spring decoration we should allow to remain where it is until required, and 

 then move it with all the soil practicable, watering at planting. Cover the 

 ground about the roots with sifted coal ashes to the depth of one-half to 

 three-quarters of an inch. We presume the soil is light and well drained. 



Variegated Elder (W. H.).— Both the silver and golden variegated are 

 common. Yours is the Silver, Sambucus nigra argentea. 



Spring-flowering Shrubs (E. F. D.). — You do not say what you intend* 

 therefore we name some of the best evergreen and deciduous kinds. Ever- 

 green : Berberis Darwinii, B. japonica, B. Aquifolium, Cistus algarvensis, 



C. august if olius, C. purpureus, C. ladaniferus, Helianthemums, Ligustrum 

 ovalifolium, Spartium junceum, S. multiflorum, S. scoparium, Ules eu- 

 ropoea flore-pleno, U. stricta, Viburnum Tinus, Vinca major, V. minor, 

 Rhododendrons Andromeda floribunda, Erica mediterranea, hibernica, 

 E. herbacea, carnea, Kalmia angustifolia, K. latifolia, Ledum angnstifolium, 

 L. latifolium, and Pernettya mucronata. Deciduous shrubs are Amelanchier 

 arbutifolia fleribunda, Amygdalns nana, A. persica flore-pleno and vars., 

 double carnation, crimson, rose, and white; Cerasus prostrata, Cornus mas- 

 eula variegata, Crataegus Oxyacantha, vars. coccinea plena, multiplex, punicea 

 flore-pleno, rosea; Cydonia japonica, C. iaponica alba, Cytisus alpinus, 

 Daphne Mezereum, D. Mezereum flore-albo, Deutzia crenata flore-pleno, 



D. gracilis, D. scabra; Forsythia suspensa, Genista tinctoria flore-pleno, 

 Kerria japonica flore-pleno, Pfeonies, Philadelphus coronarius and var. flore- 

 pleno, P. laxus,P. grandiflorus, Prunus triloba, Ribes aureum, R. sanguineum, 

 R. speciosum; Sambucus racemosa, Syringa Emodi, S. persica and var. alba, 

 S. vulgaris and vars. alba, Charles X., Dr. Lindley, and grandiflora; Vibur- 

 num dentatum, V. Lantana, V. plicatum, V. Opulus nanuni; Weigela rosea, 

 W. amabilis, W. amabilis alba, and Azaleas. 



Pruning Gooseberries (Mem). — In pruning your Gooseberry bushes you 

 will need to leave young shoots for forming the bush, so that when grown a 

 foot they will be 1 foot apart ; they should only have the points of the shoots 

 removed, or say one-third of their length. When the bushes are formed yon 

 will not need to leave any young shoots, except it be to replace a worn-out 

 branch, which should be cut clean out or shortened to the young shoot, 

 training that in its place. All the young shoots along the branches should be 

 cut-in to within half or three-quarters of an inch of their base, but the shoot 

 at the end of the branches should be cut back to 2 or 3 inches, or left longer, 

 according as increased size of the bushes is wanted. Rivers's " Rose Amateur's 

 Guide " will suit 3 on. 



Wood Ashes (Monitor). — They may be applied as a top-dressing through- 

 out the garden, and to flower and vegetable crops alike. They are valuable 

 for heavy soils. We should apply them now, or after the ground is dug, and 

 they may be put on an inch thick, and pointed-in in spring with a fork. 

 They are beneficial to Onions, Carrots, and, indeed, most crops. We do not 

 advise them to be used for plants, or only to the same extent as sand, or one- 

 sixth of the compost. Tothe Vine border they may beappliedas atop-dressing 

 In March. The border may be covered an inch thick throughout. 



Destroying Slugs (C. L.).— We approve of your plan of proceeding with 

 quicklime, but yon must not expect to exterminate them by a single appli- 

 cation. Clear away as much of the decaying parts of the plants as you can, 

 and towards evening on a mild day, and. after rain, give the whole of the 

 ground a good dressing of quicklime. It will not injure the foliage of the 



most tender plants, but we would not place more of it over them than can be 

 helped, yet covering the ground about them, and dusting it on the stems and 

 crowns. The lime will onlv kill , the slugs it touches, therefore yon must 

 apply more at intervals of three or four days. This persisted in during the 

 mild weather we have now, and again in spring and early summer, will re- 

 duce them considerably. A dressing of 1 lb. of nitrate of soda to 30 square 

 yards given in March or April will destroy many of them, and is beneficial to 

 plants. 



Evergreens for Border Planting (Conifer). — Your border will hold 

 twenty plants in each row at 8 feet apart. For the back row (nest the hedge) 

 Abies orientalis, Bex Hodginsii, Pious austriaca, Tasus pyramidalis, Cedrus 

 atlantica, Thuja orientalis stricta, Pinns Laricio, lies aqnifolia flava, Picea 

 nobilis.Retinosporapisifera, Pinns Lambertiana, Juniperus hibernica, Welling- 

 tonia gigantea, Tasus elegantissima, Abies Donglasii, Cupressus Lawsoniana 

 stricta, Pinus excelsa, Thujopsis borealis, Thuja Lobbi, and Taxus adpressa 

 stricta. Nest row : — Abies Clanbrasiliana, Taxus adpressa, Gold-leaved Holly, 

 Thuja compacta, Osmanthus ilicifolius argenteus variegatis, Cupressus Law- 

 soniana variegata, Phillyrea ilicifolia, Thuja orientalis elegantissima, Picea 

 grandis, Silver-edged Holly, Picea Nordmanniana, Pinus sylvestris pumila, 

 Picea Pinsapo, Pinus Cembra, Picea lasiocarpa, Cryptomeria japonica nana, 

 Cupressus Lawsoniana, Ilex altaclarense, Cedrus Deodara, Desfontainea spi- 

 nosa, Juniperus chinensis. The deciduous trees in the hedgerow ought to be 

 removed, and we should not plant any less than S feet apart as a permanency ; 

 but we should certainly fill-in with common Laurel, Berberis Darwinii, 

 B. Aquifolium, and other low-growing cheap shrubs. It is easy to move 

 them, and they would give a finish to the border. 



Gesneras not Flowering (G. T. B.). — In the specimens you enclosed to 

 us, the growing, and, of course, the flowering parts are destroyed, and they 

 will not flower. It is occasioned by the plants being kept too close and wet. 

 They require a good brisk heat, an abundance of moisture, but not over the 

 foliage, and the atmosphere to be well ventilated without creating a drying 

 current of air. Slight shade from bright sun is necessary, but do not give too 

 heavy waterings at the root — in fact, none until they become dry, then give a 

 good supply before the foliage becomes limp. We ought to say that the leaf 

 bore evidence of mildew, but we think that is a consequence of their being 

 scorched or destroyed by excessive moisture. 



Orchid House (A Gardjner). — We should not have an open stage only 

 6 inches above the hot-water pipes. The Orchids would suffer if you required 

 a high temperature. 



Removing Wood of Vine Outside a Stove House (M. I. E.). — You 

 ought to prune your Vine, and move it outside at once. Do not give it any 

 water at the roots during winter. 



Transplanting Welltngtonia gigantea (J. W.). — When of large size 

 it is probably the most uncertain of all the Conifers to move. Last year, 

 however, we removed three trees from 12 to 15 feet high, and they have all 

 succeeded beyond our expectations. We took out a trench all round, about 

 3 feet from the stem, cut off all roots, and then worked below the roots 

 towards the stem, removing all the loose soil, and secured with mats the soil 

 adhering firmly to the roots. We then lifted all out and carried away the 

 trees on planks. With care we were enabled to plant with a good ball. Some 

 good rich soil was put about the roots, and the plants were placed rather 

 high, about a foot above the surrounding ground level, and a good watering 

 was given after planting. They were made secure against winds. From the 

 present time to the end of November is suitable for transplanting, and from 

 March to the middle of April is equally^ good. 



Pruning the Filbert (Octogenarian). — In Kent, where large quantities 

 of Filberts and Cobs are grown, it has long been the practice to prune the 

 trees with what may be called great severity — i.e., leaving very little young 

 wood; and as a vigorous tree will grow in some form, often making shoots 

 6 feet long, it has been the custom with many growers of late years to remove 

 in summer — say August — all the strong rank-growing shoots, by pulling them 

 out from the centre of the tree where they are mostly produced. With regard 

 to the male catkins which appear in the autumn, there is much difference of 

 opinion. Some affirm that they are always in sufficient number to insure fruit- 

 fulness in the female flowers if the weather and other circumstances be favour- 

 able at the time the latter are out, and they prune when most convenient. 

 Others, again, affirm that it is better to delay "that work until after Christmas, 

 in order to give the male catkin a chance of assisting. All parties, however, 

 agree that the little rosy-purple blossom which constitutes the female organ 

 is very tender and easily damaged, and all cultivators try to finish the prun- 

 ing ere it make its appearance, as any rubbing against the " brush," as the 

 tiny pink blossom is called, is fatal to bearing. In your case we would at 

 once cut away all that is in the way of the path you speak of, and leave the 

 rest till after Christmas. We are sorry an answer to your communication has 

 been delayed so long from unavoidable causes. 



Size of Boller (Devon Subscriber). — To cut close, a saddle-back cast-iron 

 boiler, 34 inches long, 22 inches wide, and 20 inches high, would suit you; 

 but we do not thin k anything is lost by having extra surface in the boiler ; 

 and were we in your case we would take the next size, though it cost a pound 

 more — say about 30 inches long, 24 inches wide, and 22 inches high. As to 

 the other matter, the circulation in two nouses, we do not see our way so 

 clearly to advise you. A plan of the elevations would have made all clear. 

 As often intimated, the best way to heat two houses independently of each 

 other is to have the boiler in the centre, with T flow and return pipes and 

 valves on each flow. In your case the new house is to be 3 feet above the 

 level of the old house, and we presume the old house is nest the boiler. 11 

 so, we would heat the old house as now, with a flow and return entirely to 

 itself. But as you must have a new boiler, we would have a second flow from 

 its top, if that flow were only a 1-inch pipe ; take that through the first 

 house, which would not greatly increase its heat, and join it to the 4-inch 

 pipes in the new house. A stopcock placed a yard or so from the boiler would 

 shut off all heat except when you wanted it. A similar pipe should connect 

 the return 4-ineh pipe with the return-pine in the lower-level house. We 

 know that there is a prejudice against such small pipes, but we say Try it. 

 We just now heat a considerable quantity of 4-inch pipes in a separate house 

 some 70 feet from the boiler, and it is amazing how soon the_l-inch pipe that 

 goes all that length heats the 4- inch pipps in the house. 



Conseevatory Roof Leaky — Forced Sea-kale (X Y. Z.).—A.s the rain 

 comes through the laps ol the glass we should have them puttied-up when 

 quite dry with equal parts of ordinary putty and white lead. The canvas 

 would answer a similar purpose, but not so effectually; besides, it wonld 

 obstruct the sun's rays, particularly at a time when there is a dim inish ed light . 

 If you decide on the material, we consider tirlany'No.3 sufficiently thick and 

 suitable for your purpose, but we do not advise it or any kind whatever. The 



