December 19, 1872. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



499 



Winter Nells is a more compact-growing 

 slender. 



tree, and the young wood is very 



Emigrating Gardener (A Subscriber). — The answer in our last number 

 has caused a letter to be sent to us which might be useful to you. We will 

 send it if you forward your address. 



Cedar Wood of Lead Pencils (J. T.\— The Bermuda Cedar (Juniperus, 

 berrnudiana), is the tree that furnishes that fine, fragrant, red wood with 

 which black-lead pencils are covered in this country ; it was formerly much used 

 for furniture and wainscoting, but it is now chiefly employed for the purpose 

 just mentioned, for lining cabinets, and for fancy wood-work. The wood is 

 red, Tery light, fragrant, and almost incorruptible. 



Bones for Manure (Q. Allen)— 1o dissolve bones for use as fertilisers 

 the cheapest treatment is with oil of vitriol, sulphuric acid, and we have 

 detailed the process in previous volumes. Bones ground small also become 

 speedily yet gradually useful to the crops. 



_ Camellias for Trellis (Oentwion). — Since we replied to you we are 

 informed that Messrs. Veitch, King's Boad, Chelsea, have a fine lot trained 

 suitable for such purposes. They were moved last autumn so as to keep them 

 saleable. 



Tubes for Rose-showing (C. J. D.).— Any of the leading seedsmen who 

 advertise in our columns could supply you. 

 Prolific Plum (F. Fane).— The variety you refer to is, probably, Denyer's 



Heating a Conservatory at a Distance from the Boiler (Suburba)i). 

 There can be no question that there would be a loss of heat in heating a 

 conservatory 20 feet by 11 feet, the connecting pipes having to pass under a 

 walk and lawn of 105 feet before reaching the conservatory. There are many 

 cases in which, however, a distant stokeholo aud boiler would be desirable; 

 and even the loss of heat would not be anything like so much as is generally 

 supposed if the following things were kept in view :— First, in using, as you 

 propose, 4-inch pipes for the conservatory, we would have cap joints for the 

 now and return as the pipes enter and leave the house, but the connecting 

 pipes, flow and return, of 105 feet we would make of 1-inch or H-bore, 

 as these would take little room, and the circulation of the flow would be 

 ^^ In tn e second place we would so sink the boiler, that for that space 

 ol 105 feet there should be a rise to the house of at least from 8 to 12 inches 

 before joining the pipes in the house. Thirdly, we would place these connect- 

 ing pipes in a close bos or chain from 6 to 12 inches below the surface, as it 

 would be better every way that the connecting pipes should be kept dry. A 

 small, close, brick drain would do, or even an earthenware tile drain, large 

 enough to receive both, conneting pipes, and mortared or cemented at the 

 joints. A small wooden box for that length would also answer. Fourthly, 

 as to packing or not packing such connecting pipes, I am a little in doubt. 

 We have packed them with'dry sawdust when the pipes, as in your case, were 

 out of doors; aud, again, we have left the pipes ppen in the drain, and the 

 end of the dram opening into thehouse ; and by leaving a small opening with 

 a plug at the end nest the boiler, the heat from the connecting pipes was 

 carried by the opening into the house. On the whole, we considered this last 

 plan most effective. The dry sawdust merely prevented the heat escaping. 

 ±ne open mode permitted the heat to reach the house, and thus help. In 

 your case economy will be consulted by the use of small connecting pipes, 

 and they will be more effectual if they are kept dry. With pipes sunk as 

 stated and enclosed, the heat given off will make little or no perceptible 

 appearance on your lawn. We see nothing to prevent you succeeding, and, in 

 Srn ^ mon ' ** carried out ftS above, there will not be much extra fuel wanted, 

 btill, if a nearer place could be got we would use it for such a small house. 

 1 H or a large house we would not hesitate. 



Changing Potato Sets (S. C.).— Every fourth or fifth year we consider 

 it desirable to have a change of seed Potatoes ; but if you change the ground 

 repeatedly, and that vary considerably, you will gain little, if anything, by a 

 change of seed, for you obtain the benefit of it annually, though not to such 

 an extent as if you were to have fresh seed from a distance. 



Pruning Abies oeovata (N. Devon).— This is the name of the Eh- shoot 

 enclosed to us. It is a pity you should have to prune it on account of its 

 branches encroaching on the walk. We fear the pruning would injure it, as this 

 class of trees needs no more pruning than the removal of the badly-disposed 

 branches. Could you not change the direction of the walk, so as to save the 

 tree from the pruning that appears necessary if the walk remain ? If you 

 must prune, cut out the shoots or branches to a fork, and shorten no shoots 

 except to buds. The shoots will only die further back if they be cut so 

 closely as to remove the growing parts or their buds. The beginning of 

 March would be a suitable time to prune it ; but we should not prune if it 

 could in any way be avoided. 



Scarlet Rhododendron (R. F.).— John Waterer, and there are several 

 rosy crrmson kinds nearly approaching to scarlet, none we should consider 

 true scarlet. 



American Blight {J. P.).— Dress the trees with paraffin oil, brushing it 

 well into the crevices. Bare the roots and dress them, as well as the 

 branches and stems, but only the thicker portions of the roots, taking the 

 soil away and replacing with fresh. 



Paxton's Manure for Hyacinths (C. B.).—It would he beneficial to the 

 Hyacinths to sprinkle a little on the surface of the pots, and point it in with 

 a piece of wood, just moving the surface ; or you may water the plants with 

 it in the same proportions as for guano — i.e., 1 to 2 ozs. to a gallon of water, 

 applied at every alternate watering. 



Rose through Wall to Conservatory (C. B.).— Take the shoot through 

 the wall at the end of January, stuffing the space round the shoot with hay 

 or tow. The stem outside ought also to be wrapped with a hayband, and the 

 roots mulched over with about 3 or 4 inches of litter, partially decayed 

 leaves, or other protecting material. We would not cut away more than the 

 weak unripe points of the shoots, unless you wish to start shoots lower than 

 this pruning would give, in which case you must prune at the point whence 

 you wish the shoots to originate. 



Sea-kale Stringy (E. S. T.).— If your Sea-kale be all like that sent us, 

 it is good for nothing. The causes appear to us to-be two— viz., it is very 

 weak, and too long or old. The first is, probably, a consequence of the 

 plants being old, weak, and grown in a soil unsuitable or wanting manure ; 

 and the second, allowing the shoots to remain too long before being cut. after 

 they are of a suitable size. The proper size to out them is when they are from 

 6 to 9 inches long, and if they are left on the plant until the stems' are a foot 

 long the latter are tough and stringy. Yours appear to be in this case; the 

 plants have been slowly forced, the growth has been allowed to become too 



loDg. Had you forced to have shoots fit to cut in from fifteen to twenty-o: e 

 days, we think you would have found them tender and good, though weak 

 Encourage growth next year with liberal manurings and applications of 

 liquid manure from April to September, dressing with salt in May and July 

 at the rate of one peck to 30 square yards. There is no work specially on 

 the (( Gathering and Storing of Apples and Pears," but the subject is treated 

 of in the "Cottage Gardeners' Dictionary" and " Gardener's Assistant." 



Pruning Roses for Forcing (A. A. M.).— The Roses potted last Septem- 

 ber will be suitable for forcing gently after this month. We should prune 

 the leading shoot, or, as you term it, main stem, back to within six eyes of 

 the present year's growth, and the side shoots to three eyes, hut keep in view 

 the ultimate form of the trees, and leave some shoots longer than others, 

 with a view to the formation of a handsome plant. 



Planting Lilium lanclfoltum (speciosum) roseum Bulbs (Idem): — It 

 is quite hardy, and succeeds planted out in good rich loamy soil, adding a 

 dressing of well- decomposed manure and some sandy peat, which should be 

 mixed well with the soil. Plant the bulbs about 3 inches below the surface, 

 placing them on and surrounding them with silver sand, and after planting 

 mulch over the spot with an inch thick of partially- decayed leaves or cocoa- 

 nut-fibre refuse. The situation should be open, but sheltered from cold and 

 high winds. 



Shrubs for Fowls' Run (S. W. G.). — We should plant the four walls at pre- 

 sent bare with evergreens, the north aspect with Ivies — viz., Hedera Helix, 

 H. digitata, H. Biegneriana, H. canadensis (hiberaica) ; the east wall with 

 Cotoneaster microphylla, Berberis Darwinii, B. stenophylla, Crataegus Pyra- 

 cantha, Cerasus Laurocerasus, and Ligustrum japonicum, which may be 

 varied with Jasminum nudiflorurn, Viburnum suspensuni, Cydonia japonica; 

 west similar to east; and south, Escallonia macrantha, Garrya elliptico, 

 Ceanothus azureus, C. floribunda, Wistaria sinensis, and Clematis Jackniamr. 

 If these ore liable to suffer from the fowls before they become established, 

 place some wire netting about 9 inches from the wall all round. After the 

 plants are established the fowls will not interfere with them, or, if they do, 

 only at the lower part of the wall. For the run we should plant common 

 Yew, Hemlock Spruce, and variegated and green Hollies. We know of no 

 plant which fowls are so fond of basking and scratching under as the Portugal 

 Laurel; they also affect Cupressus Laweoniana. Lilacs are good, and so are 

 Thorns, pink, scarlet, white, both the single and double. If you do not wish 

 for so many plants for the wall, plant Ivies. 



Winter Treatment of Cannas, &o. (Donna Serafina). — The roots should 

 be stored in sand barely moist, and kept in a cellar or other place safe from 

 frost, potting and placing in heat in March. The cause of the Escallonia, 

 pruned last spring, not flowering this summer, was probably all the points of 

 the shoots being cut off. Gloxinias may be started from the middle of 

 February to the beginning of March, using a compost of equal parts of light 

 loam and sandy peat, one port leaf soil, and a sixth of silver sand. For grow- 

 ing under the shade of trees the different varieties of Periwinkle are good. 

 Latania borbonica should be kept rather dry up to March, then be potted in 

 two parts light loam, and one part each sandy peat and leaf soil, with a sixth 

 of silver sand, watering freely after it begins to grow. Whilst growing it 

 would do better in a house with a higher temperature than a greenhouse. ,- We 

 cannot name plants from a leaf. 



Pelargonium oblongatum (J. H. B.). — It is a greenhouse perennial. Wo 

 do not know where it can be purchased. A plant of it flowered this year in 

 the garden of W. Wilson Saunders, Esq., Hiilneld, Reigate. 



Plants for Rockwork Shaded by Trees {H. H. 23.).— You object to- 

 Feins, and elect to have flowering plants, which will not do well unless the 

 shade be slight and you can water thoroughly in dry weather. Alpines re- 

 quire as much air and sun as a mountain Daisy. Yon cannot grow them 

 under trees, yet some of the plants that are put down in catalogues as Alpines, 

 but which belong to woods, copses, and shaded places, will probably succeed, 

 Of such the following are a few ; — Adonis vernalis ; Ajuga reptans; Anemone 

 apennina, A. hortensis, A. nemorosa plena, A. nemorosa rubra plena, A. ra- 

 nunculoides ; Aquilegia alpina, Asperula odorata, Aubrietias, Azalea procum- 

 bens, Bellis perennis aucubsefolia, Cardarnine trifolia, Colchicum alpinum, 

 C. autumnale flore-pleno; Convallaria majalis, and varieties gold-striped, 

 pink, and double ; C. rosea; Crocus Aucheri, C. autumn alls, C. biflorus, C. nu- 

 diflorus, C. Sieberi, C. marathonicus ; Cyclamen Coum, C. europajum, C. hede- 

 raefolium, C. repandum ; Eranthis hyemalis; Galanthus nivalis, G. nivalis 

 flore-pleno, G. plicatus ; Festuca glauca, Glechoma hederacea foliis variegatis ; 

 Helleborus niger, H. olympicus, H. orientalis, H. atrorubens ; Hepatica angu- 

 losa, H. triloba, and vors. blue, white, pink, crimson, purple, double red, and 

 blue; Hypericum calycinum, Meconopsis cambrica, Miniums cupreus, Myos- 

 otis alpicola ; Narcissus Ajax, N. angustifolia, N. pseudo-Narcissus, N. junci- 

 folius, N. poeticus, aud var. plenus ; Papaver alpinum, P. nudiflorum ; Pin- 

 guicula gi-andiflora, Primula acaulis, and double white, lilac, purple, dark 

 crimson, and sulphur varieties ; Puhnonaria angustifolia, and var. rubra; Scilla 

 amcena, S. bifolia, S. sibirica; Trollius asiaticus, T. europaeus, T. napellifolius ; 

 Viola calcorata, V. biflora, V. odorata in variety, V. striata ; and Wahlenbergia 

 hederacea. Soxifragas might do if not too much shaded, but Sedums cannot 

 have too much sun. 



Names of Fruits {A. C). — 1, Mousiegneur Affre ; 2, Princess Charlotte j- 

 4, Passe Colmar; 5, Thompson's; 7, WhiteDoyenne ; 8, Cornte de Flandres; 

 9, Knight's Monarch ; 10, Triomphe de Jodoigne ; 11, Prince Albert ; 12, Easter 

 Beurre. 



Names of Plants {A. 23. C.).- 

 sethiopica. 



-The plant you call a Lilium is Richardia 



POULTRY, BEE, KEY) PIGEON CHR0KLCLE, 



N.B.- 



-Owing to want of space we are compelled to postpone the 

 Reports of several Shows which we have in type. 



NORWICH POULTRY SHOW. 

 This was held on the 11th inst. 



Game.— Black-breasted and other Reds.— Cock or Cockerel.— -1. Cup, and Extra, 

 J. Fletcher, Stoneclough. 2, J. Harris, he, 3. Jeken, Eltham ; S. Matthew- 

 StowmarUet. Hen or Pullet.— 1 and Cud, J. Fletcher. 2, C. F. Barnett, Biggies, 

 wade. vhc. T. Fenn, Ipswich, he, H. E. Martin ; S-Ma thew. c, J. Haughton, 

 Long Stratton; J. Jeken. 



Game.— Any other variety.— Cock or Cockerel.— 1 and Cup, S.Matthew (Duck- 



