IN BORNEAN FORESTS [chap. 



The Malay servants who were with me at " Woodlands " used 

 to follow me, being afraid to remain alone even for a short 

 time, as they knew that tigers were abundant in the neighbour- 

 hood. But when they heard that, a few days before, a tiger had 

 been seen entering the kitchen (a small hut a few feet from the 

 bungalow), they insisted on sleeping in my own bedroom. 



For several evenings I lay in wait for the tiger until overcome 

 by sleep ; but nothing occurred to disturb the peaceful quiet of my 

 pleasant stay at this place, where I should have been glad to stay 

 still longer, for the forest was a constant source of manifold interest. 

 But the day approached on which the steamer for Europe was to 

 leave, and I naturally wished to see as much as I could of Doria 

 before he started. 



The parting with my friend was a great disappointment to me, 

 for it left me alone to carry out the programme of exploration 

 which we had planned together, and to the fulfilment of which I 

 had so ardently looked forward. After he had gone, I left in the 

 Rainbow for Kuching, getting there at the beginning of April. I 

 very soon started to take up my abode in the house on Mattang, 

 where I intended remaining some time. On this occasion I went 

 there by water, as being more convenient for the transport of my 

 provisions to the foot of the mountain. 



Just near the starting point on the river was one of the Chinese 

 social-houses which they call " kunsi " or " kongsi." Like all 

 Chinese houses, it was built on a dry levelled site, not raised on 

 piles. It was divided into three parts, the central one being open 

 in front ; and here, at the end opposite the entrance, was an altar 

 with the image of " Tai-pek-kong," the god of riches, at the side of 

 which hung tablets covered with large gold characters. One of 

 the lateral rooms was a dwelling place, the other a store. The wife 

 of the head Chinaman was a Chinese girl, very young and very 

 small, not a beauty, but with hair such as I had never seen before : 

 it was of an intense black, very abundant, and hung loose down her 

 back, reaching quite to her heels. She was evidently proud of this 

 natural ornament, and could often be seen, to the admiration of 

 lookers-on, combing it in the central hall, which was also used as 

 an assembly room. 



The Chinese are extremely superstitious, and never undertake 

 anything without previously seeking to propitiate by certain 

 ceremonies the spirits which they believe may prove malevolent. 

 On one occasion I got to the kunsi just as they were performing 

 the ceremonies considered necessary to ensure success to a new 

 gambir plantation. The small Chinese colony, consisting of eight 

 or ten persons, were congregated in the central hall ; on the altar 

 were a number of porcelain cups containing eatables, and many 

 lighted tapers of red wax. Joss-sticks, too, were burning in pro- 



86 



