IN BORNEAN FORESTS [chap, xvii 



water, even at low tide, so that always and everywhere the town 

 rises out of the water. Some old chiefs, however, assured us that 

 four generations back the houses of Bruni were all constructed on 

 the river banks. 



Following the main canal, we passed right through the middle of 

 the city, and anchored in front of the Sultan's palace, which is 

 scarcely more imposing in appearance than the other houses. 



The unexpected arrival of the Heartsease caused a great commo- 

 tion in the town. The men appeared at the doors of their houses, and 

 looked at us passing with the stolid expression usual to Malays ; 

 whilst the women, wishing to satisfy their curiosity without being 

 seen, peeped out of all the holes they could avail themselves of. 

 Groups of boys squatting, more Malayano, on the bars of the 

 house-ladders, contemplated our passage ; others jumped into the 

 sampans or into the water, where, astride of a plank or any con- 

 venient piece of wood, they congregated around the vessel. The 

 familiarity of Malay boys with water is simply marvellous ! They 

 show plainly enough that they are the descendants of an eminently 

 sea or waterside people. Mr. St. John aptly remarks that Malay 

 children are suckled, smoke, and swim at the same time. 



Very soon we were surrounded by a great number of sampans 

 of all sizes. Most of them were loaded with boys, but many were 

 paddled by a single woman, always old and ugly. All had some- 

 thing to sell, generally fruits and eatables of various kinds. Krisses 

 and parangs of different shapes were also offered for sale, but they 

 asked fancy prices, far above their actual value. Bruni was once 

 famous for the manufacture of these weapons, and the Bruni blades 

 were in high repute all over the archipelago, but at present even 

 this art appears to have become obsolete. 



As soon as we had cast anchor, we sent a message to the Sultan 

 asking for an audience. The answer, which was not long in coming, 

 was to the effect that at half-past three the Sultan would be pleased 

 to receive us. 



The audience hall was not at all unlike the stage of a theatre, 

 and it was quite open on the waterside. Along its outer edge were 

 a few bronze cannons of native manufacture. I followed the officers 

 to take part in the, reception. There was certainly nothing interesting 

 or remarkable in the room, but I was, nevertheless, very glad to have 

 had the opportunity of seeing it, for it was in this very hall that the 

 cession of Sarawak to James Brooke had been ratified, as well as 

 the treaty of Labuan with Great Britain. 



Sultan Omar Ali of Bruni was then a stout old man with an un- 

 intelligent face. He complained that his strength was failing, that 

 his legs were getting weak, and that his harem had become useless 

 to him. He was dressed in Malay style, but not over well ; indeed, 

 his baju and sarong, although of silk and embroidered with gold, 



250 



