IN BORNEAN FORESTS [chap. 



stakes, leaving only a narrow passage sufficient to admit one boat 

 at a time. These Malays made a proposal to join forces and attempt 

 to get through. I accepted their offer with pleasure, for they would 

 be most useful to me as interpreters and guides, having often gone 

 that way. 



We got close to Tubao village without being discovered by the 

 Kayans, as I knew the place well. When we got to the bend in 

 the river just before the village came in view, I ordered my men 

 to paddle with all their might, and gave the same directions to 

 the Malays, who followed me closely, telling them above all, 

 not to be stopped by any kind of intimidation. We thus shot 

 through the opening of the barrier of stakes before the Kayans were 

 able to close it, and in a moment had also passed the village, dropping 

 our paddles only at the opposite end. As we paddled frantically 

 past the village I saw some of the Kayans rush along the shore 

 gesticulating as if they would speak and signing us to stop ; but I 

 pretended not to see them. 



When we came to a halt beyond the village, one of the old 

 chiefs came up to speak to us. He told us that it was a period of 

 strict mattang with them, and that I could not then enter their 

 country. The old man said this, however, in a deprecatory tone, 

 endeavouring to point out to me all the evils which would befall his 

 tribe if the taboo were violated. He also tried to excite my com- 

 miseration, dwelling on the effects of the wrath and vengeance of 

 the spirits who preside over and protect the fields and the harvests. 



I gave the good old man to understand that for me there could 

 be no question of passing through, or not passing through ; through 

 I had come and back I would not go. As to the spirits, it was 

 different ; but considering the very friendly terms I was .on with 

 them, I thought that it would not be difficult to arrange matters. 

 I added, to reassure him thoroughly, that far from harm being 

 caused by my passage, his country would derive benefit therefrom, 

 and that the ensuing harvest would be more abundant than in 

 ordinary years. 



The old Kayan appeared to be greatly quieted and consoled 

 by what I had told him. It is rare to find savage people who will 

 not believe anything that is unlikely or marvellous ; indeed, with 

 them faith appears to grow in ratio of the improbability and strange- 

 ness of the thing asserted. But, truly, one need not go among 

 savages to have proof of the popularity of anything supernatural, 

 or of the ease with which the masses are led to believe in such things ! 



Meanwhile the entire population had crowded down to the river- 

 side. They showed no hostility, but would not allow any of us to 

 go up to their houses, which, after all, I did not particularly want 

 to do. After a long palaver, or " bichara," as they call it, with the 

 chiefs, we came to an agreement as to what was to be done to appease 



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