IN BORNEAN FORESTS [chap. 



were few for our boat, which, although not one of the biggest, 

 was quite sixty feet in length. We accordingly stopped at two 

 other Kayan houses to recruit men. One of these houses was 

 empty, all the inmates, women and children included, being away 

 either in the fields or hunting in the forest. A wag in our party, 

 catching sight of a big gong, began to beat it in the manner these 

 people do when some danger, notably an attack by enemies, is 

 imminent. We had not long to wait to see the effect. People 

 began to appear from all sides in a state of alarm and excitement. 

 First came the women, with the smaller children on their shoulders ; 

 and, following close, the men, panting and excited. But as soon 

 as they saw our inoffensive selves and their inoffensive neighbours, 

 they took the joke goodnaturedly, and burst into a hearty laugh. 

 Possibly this little joke may have helped to induce some of the 

 young men to join my party, though another good reason 

 may have been the cause of their willingness to accompany me 

 to Sibu, the capital of the Rejang. A journey down to the sea 

 is not an easy undertaking for the Kayans ; for, in addition to its 

 length, it is rendered perilous by possible Dyak hostilities, not- 

 withstanding the relative security which the Government of Sarawak 

 had succeeded in establishing along this river, mainly through the 

 energy of the Tuan Muda. Thus the natives felt a greater amount 

 of security in being with me, and I was also quite an excellent 

 opportunity for them in another way, for with the pay I promised 

 them on my arrival at Sibu they would be able to procure various 

 articles they coveted, and especially salt, of which they were then 

 much in want, and which they usually buy from traders at an 

 exorbitant price. I was thus able to get together twenty young 

 and vigorous paddlers, some of them well experienced in handling 

 a boat through rapids, and shortly after noon we took our seats 

 amid much merriment and started at racing speed, the men keeping 

 excellent time with a song, or emitting shrill cries in chorus, just 

 as if they were off on some war expedition. The warlike senti- 

 ment is common, and always easily awakened in all these people, 

 for whom war, or, rather, predatory expeditions, are, as it were, 

 a natural instinct, fostered and transmitted from generation to 

 generation. 



The river became more and more majestic as we proceeded. 

 The mass of water it carries is imposing, although it was evident 

 from the nature and look of the escarped and high banks that we 

 saw the stream at its lowest level. Towards evening one of the paddlers 

 directed my attention to some large animals which were grazing 

 on the river bank to our left. These turned out to be a small 

 herd of wild cattle. I at once ordered my men to paddle noise- 

 lessly, and to approach a spot where I could land unperceived. 

 I had with me the excellent gun which had done such good service 



310 



