IN BORNEAN FORESTS [chap. 



be rich in game, for I saw deer time after time on the river banks, 

 but always out of range. 



The same day we found coal in big seams on the left bank of the 

 river. At dusk we selected a dry spot on the bank to cook our 

 dinner and to pass the night. The Punans cook their sago in earthern 

 pots, which they make themselves. Both they and the Kayans 

 with me were afraid of the Ketibas Dyaks, and kept a strict watch 

 through the night. A heavy storm, too, helped to keep us awake, 

 and we could very well have done without it, for we were camped 

 in a most awkward place. 



At 7 a.m. on the 29th we were once more paddling rapidly on 

 our way. Two kidjans (Tragulus), and then two fine white-tailed 

 pheasants, very probably the beautiful species subsequently des- 

 cribed as Lobiophasis bulweri, were seen on the edge of the jungle, 

 but we were going too fast for me to fire at them ; besides, the river 

 was very wide. Wild boars were also seen, but they proved very 

 shy, and turned back into the jungle as soon as they sighted us. 

 Two darters (Plotus) had captured and carried ashore a large fish, 

 which certainly must have weighed seven or eight pounds. We 

 secured it, and it was an opportune addition to my breakfast, and 

 to that of several of my men. This bird may well be considered 

 as the most rapacious of its kind, a true web-footed bird of prey. 

 It appears to grasp the fish with its feet, and to despatch it with its 

 sharp-pointed bill. The big fish which we took from the two birds 

 had evidently slipped from their claws on account of its great 

 weight. Its head was quite riddled with holes made by the 

 birds' bills. 



We had now reached the most dangerous part of the river, for 

 there are here three rapids at no great distance apart which have to 

 be passed. The waters were then low and the rocks numerous, 

 threatening no little danger to the boats. When the water is high, 

 navigation is less difficult, for the difference of level in the rapids 

 becomes much less, and the danger of being driven on rocks is also 

 greatly diminished. The increasing roar caused by the falling 

 water warned us of the close proximity of the rapid, though we had 

 heard it a long way back. At the first big fall we unloaded our 

 boat, carrying everything on the men's shoulders along the shore 

 beyond the dangerous part ; but we all returned to the boat to 

 make our dash through the foaming waters. For me it was 

 quite a new sensation ; and, indeed, I felt it was quite possible 

 I might never have the opportunity of narrating it. I had 

 full faith in my Kayans, however, and especially in the expert 

 who wielded the steering paddle at the stern. Drawn up to his 

 fullest height, he looked eagerly for the best passage. This was no 

 easy task, for not only has the steersman to avoid the rocks which 

 are above water, but those just covered by it, which are still more 



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