10 



JOURNAL OF HOETICULTTTBE AND COTTAGE GAEDENER. 



[ July 5, 1861 



same time be so strong as to impound them. This requires 

 greater strength than is needed for the red spider. 



I think the trees require syringing two or three times, as 



a single leaf missed is sufficient to stock the tree with^those 



pests again. — T. G. ^,.£3 



P.S. — It is not effectual for the aphis. ". ZiosvM 



MORE FIRE THAN NEEDFUL TO HEAT THE WATER CERCTJLATED. 



Last autumn I put up a small house (No. 1) chiefly for 

 propagating purposes, a semi-span, on Hereman's Paxtoman 

 principle, 20 feet by 10 feet. It was heated as shown in the 

 plan. I soon found that I had not enough water for my 

 heat, for no sooner does the fire burn up than it boils. At 

 first I had a half-inch gas-pipe led through the glass roof at j, 

 for the escape of the steam; but this was quite insufficient. 

 Then I had a tube of zinc made 6 inches in diameter, secured \ 

 over the pipe junction, and carried through the roof, and 

 then covered with a perforated lid — the whole shown atj, 

 in the section L. But this scarcely mends the matter, for 

 the space enclosed in this six-inch pipe is insufficient to hold 

 the swollen water at boiling point; and so, ever and anon, 



it rushes and roars up, throws off the lid, and pours in 

 streams upon the glass roof, penetrating down to the plants 

 beneath, scalding them, and filling the house with steam. 

 This is difficulty the first. 



Now, as a remedy, it has been suggested that I have a 

 parallel-sided cistern made of zinc or sheet iron, to hold 

 about twenty-four gallons, and put this instead of the 

 present steam-pipe, soldering it over the open junction, as 

 shown by the section (m), dotted in section L. This would 

 have a moveable lid, for supply, and it is thought that the 

 increased contents would both leave ample room for swell- 

 ing under heat, and also by the increased body of water 

 obviate the tendency to too ready boiling. 



BACK WALL. 



;?SSs$S^Si '. ""■. . : 



HOUSE No. 2. 



AT PEESENT TJXHEATET>. 



a, Walled pit, filled with tan, for plunging. 

 b t c, Flow and return four-inch pipe for bottom heat, 



d, Tap at end of ditto. *4z- ' 



e. Flow and return four-inch pipefor atmospheric heat. 

 /, Boiler. 



g, Fireplace. 



A, Stokehole, under a shed. 



Please to give me your opinion on this, and if you approve, 

 say -whether the proposed cistern should be of zinc or sheet 

 iron. 



Now then for difficulty the second. I want to put a 

 little heat into house No. 2, and think that my boiler (/) is 

 adequate to the work. The distance from house to house is 

 about 9 feet, and it is proposed to carry one-inch connection- 

 pipes from the flow and return at j, to similar flow and 

 return four-inch pipes to be placed in house No. 2. The 

 proposed connections and pipes are indicated by the 

 lines (n). But the space between the houses is occupied by 

 the garden walk (£'), which cannot be removed. May the 

 connection-pipes dip beneath the gravel, and rise again to 



t, Front shelf. 



j\ Steam-escape pipe. 



k, Garden walk. 



L, Section of front shelf at j, on larger scale. 



m. Proposed waste-cistern. * 



n, Proposed continuation of pipes to House 2. 



their proper level within the house, No. 2? since'; their 

 level, even when so buried, would not descend nearly so low 

 as the point at which each pipe respectively issues from or 

 rejoins the boiler. Please to tell whether such a dip is 

 practicable. 



I have omitted to say that as the heating of house No. 2 

 will only be occasional, while the heating of No. 1 is con- 

 stant, the pipes (n) must each have a valve or stop ; but 

 this will present no difficulty, I presume. — Orcbtdophtxtts. 



[The primary cause of your trouble is having too much 

 fire for the body of water to be heated, which causes the 

 water to boil, and very likely to form steam next the 

 boiler, the force of which throws the water up the six-inch 



