July 12, 1801. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



33- 



lated by the plants. Cabbage, make another sowing for 

 autumn use. Carrots, make a small sowing if they are in 

 request for drawing young, also a few more Onions for the 

 same purpose. The Tripoli Onion answers best. The au- 

 tumn-sown ones transplanted in the spring will now be 

 attaining their full growth ; as soon as this is perceived lay 

 the tops down with the back of a wooden rake for some time 

 previous to pulling. Celery, the main crops must now be 

 got out without delay. Let the plants be well supplied 

 with water, and shaded for a few days if necessary. The 

 early crops to be liberally supplied with liquid manure, and 

 the soil about them frequently stirred with a fork ; but by 

 no means make any attempt at moulding up until they 

 have nearly attained the desired growth. Peas, continue to 

 earth up and stake, the last sowing of these may now be 

 made. The Early Frame is generally recommended, but 

 Knight's Dwarf Marrow will also succeed if the season prove 

 fine. Potatoes, the spaces between the rows of early Po- 

 tatoes should be deeply forked up, and planted with the 

 latest crop of Brussels Sprouts, Kale, Coleworts, and other 

 winter and spring Greens. They will not interfere with the 

 well-doing of the Potatoes. Scarlet Runners, earth-up and 

 stake the later-sown, unless they are required dwarf, when 

 the tops must be frequently pinched out ; but it is always 

 best to stake them if possible both for neatness and pro- 

 ductiveness. Tomatoes, keep them well thinned out and 

 constantly nailed. Turnips, keep up good successional sow- 

 ings, of which a large breadth may now be got in. Dry 

 wood ashes or charred refuse sprinkled over them when they 

 are wet is a good preventive against the fly. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



Keep the young wood of wall trees constantly nailed in. 

 Spur-in the young,, wood of Gooseberries and Currants, it 

 increases their productiveness, and also the fineness of the 

 fruit. Care will still be required to keep down the ravages 

 of aphides on wall trees by frequently syringing. Straw- 

 berry plantations, that are to stand to bear another crop, to 

 have all the superfluous runners cut away between the rows, 

 and all weeds carefully removed ; but on no account let any 

 of the foliage be cut away at this season. Most kinds of 

 fruit now ripe or ripening, will require the protection of nets 

 to preserve them from birds. Peaches and Nectarines should 

 have their final thinning when the stones in the fruit get 

 firm and hard, as all the risk of dropping during the stoning 

 process will then be over. Vines against walls to be nailed 

 to the wall. Pinch out the points of the current year's 

 •wood (except the leaders), of Figs when they have made five 

 and six joints. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



Shading should be used sparingly, except on bright days, 

 for during dull unsettled weather plants require all the light 

 that conservatories, the roofs of which are partially shaded 

 by twiners, afford, and are greatly benefited by an occasional 

 gleam of sunshine. The beauty of most softwooded plants 

 will be considerably prolonged by the use of weak liquid 

 manure, which should be given frequently. Indeed such 

 things as Achimenes, Clerodendrons, &c, may be had in full 

 beauty from June to October through being liberally sup- 

 plied with manure water ; but this must not be given too 

 strong at first. Keep the atmosphere as moist as can be 

 done ; but avoid damp on cold nights by leaving sufficient 

 air to cause a gentle circulation, and spare no attention to 

 keep the plants clear of insects. Chinese Primulas, especially 

 the double varieties, if at all backward, should be placed in 

 a cold frame and shaded from the sun, where they will make 

 rapid progress, particularly if the pots stand on a slight 

 bottom heat. A thorough revision of plants belonging to 

 the greenhouse should now take place with the view of 

 affording them a final shift for the season, giving, where 

 necessary, support by judicious tying, and repairing irregu- 

 larities of growth. The obvious reason for shifting during 

 the summer is, that before the approach of winter the plants 

 may possess a sufficient mass of roots to support them 

 through that trying season. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



Go over the beds frequently, and keep the young shoots of 

 Verbenas, &c, nicely regulated and pegged down until the 

 ground is fairly covered, after which the shoots may be 

 allowed to grow more at liberty. On poor dry soils two or 



three applications of weak manure water, given at intervals 

 of a few days, and when the ground is moist, will greatly 

 assist in getting the beds covered without loss of time. See 

 that Dahlias, Hollyhocks, &c., are securely staked and 

 properly tied as they advance in growth. Manure water 

 will also be useful to these. Eemove dead flowers and seed 

 from Roses, and give the autumn-flowering varieties plenty 

 of manure water, in order to keep them in vigorous health 

 and secure plenty of wood for blooming in the autumn. Bud- 

 ding should be proceeded with in cloudy weather. Mildew 

 is sometimes very troublesome after this season, and no time 

 should be lost in dusting the infested plants with sulphur. 



PITS AND FRAMES. 



The stock here will now be growing freely, and should be 

 frequently examined individually to see that all is going 

 right, for plants when growing rapidly very speedily suffer 

 through neglect in watering, or from the attacks of insects. 

 Examine young specimens that were potted early in the 

 season, and shift at once such as require more pot room, so 

 as to get the pots moderately well filled with roots before 

 the winter, in which state plants are much more easily carried 

 through the winter than when either over or under-potted. 

 Leschenaultias should be carefully examined for green fly. 

 Chorozemas, Bossireas, &c, must also be frequently examined 

 for red spider and laid upon their sides on a clean mat and 

 thoroughly washed with the syringe, repeating the syringing 

 as often as may be necessary to eradicate the pest. Young 

 specimens of valuable hardwooded plants should be carefully 

 trained, keeping the shoots nicely tied out or pegged down 

 in order to secure close compact specimens. W. Keane. 



DOLNGS OP THE LAST WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



Here our work has been much the same as in previous 

 weeks, with the exception of clearing off our first Cauli- 

 flower, and dunging and trenching the ground for Straw- 

 berries — to be transferred from pots that were forced under 

 glass — and clearing off some early Potatoes, to get in Brus- 

 sels Sprouts and Scotch Cabbaging Kale. Dug down, also, 

 some Strawberry-borders after being cleared of fruit, which, 

 borders are also supplied with dwarf bush Apple trees, and 

 planted thickly with Colewort Cabbage, except for a square 

 of 4 feet or so round the trees. We do not by any means re- 

 commend this hard cropping of fruit-tree borders ; but must- 

 do has a language of its own, as with a small garden, and a 

 continuous supply, there is little use to think of uncropped 

 fruit-borders, however much you may desire them to be so. 

 For all tender fruit the injury done is not so much owing to 

 what the cultivated plants take from such a border as from 

 the shade given, which keeps the soil cold ; and as the surface 

 is apt to become dry from the absorbing properties of the 

 roots of the vegetables, or smaller fruits, as Strawberries, the 

 roots of the trees are naturally inclined to go down deeper 

 after moisture than is good for them. 



Above we have spoken of clearing off the remains of the 

 early Cauliflower, as in the vei y busy days of May and June, 

 when every moment was valuable, heads were frequently 

 cut, and the stumps left remaining until a slacker time 

 could.be obtained for their removal. In general, however, 

 this is a bad, wasteful, slovenly plan — wasteful because the 

 large leaves left on the stump continue to pump up for 

 themselves much of the nourishing properties of the soil, 

 as we found beneath such stumps the ground dry, and 

 thoroughly permeated by roots, at the depth of 30 inches ; 

 wasteful, too, because they thus not only uselessly exhaust 

 the soil, but the nourishment which the decomposed stumps 

 and leaves would give to other crops is so much longer held 

 in abeyance. The plan is slovenly, because, if followed in 

 the case of a Cauliflower, it is apt to be followed in the case 

 of Potato-haulm, Lettuces, &c, it being somewhat easier 

 to cut a Lettuce than to pull it up and leave all that is not 

 wanted for the table to give its nourishing properties to 

 the rubbish-heap, and all such remains left in the garden 

 give it an untidy appearance, conjuring up the ideas of a 

 thorough cleaning-up day ; whilst the prominent ideas in a 

 well-kept garden should be constant tidiness, comfort, and 

 elegance. Why should not a row or a bed of Cauliflower be 



