October 4, 1S64, ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



277 



planting, turfing, and such operations, and also on account 

 of the busy character of the spring months, which always 

 bring sufficient claims on the most diligent, without the 

 presence of extras of any kind. Remodelling flower-beds, 

 or making new ones, may be carried on after the middle 

 of the month, and where old beds are to be broken up the 

 herbaceous plants already existing should be numbered or 

 named in due time, in order to be able to ascertain the 

 heights, colours, &o. Ornamental shrubs, whether ever- 

 green or deciduous, may be removed with every prospect of 

 success after the second week ; no hesitation need take 

 place as to the kinds, provided the ground is properly pre- 

 pared by trenching, and thoroughly drained if necessary. 

 The broom will now be in constant request, and although 

 the varying tints of autumn are so admirable when con- 

 trasted on the trees, yet they are not so much admired on 

 the lawn or gravel walks. We would now suggest a most 

 liberal use of the roller on all lawns previous to the last 

 mowing, this will leave the surface firm and smooth for the 

 winter. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



In arranging the stock in its winter quarters in these 

 structures beware of overcrowding it. Drawn stock is not 

 endured in these days, it is far better to throw a portion 

 away than to spoil superior specimens. Many of second- 

 rate character which require another season's growth, may 

 be preserved in good dry pits, at least until the middle of 

 December, when if very hard weather occur they may have 

 a chance of removal, perhaps to some of the other structures 

 until the end of January. It cught ever to be a maxim in 

 regular plant-houses that no two plants touch, still we must 

 confess that many who would admit the propriety of the 

 principle are frequently compelled to ignore it in practice 

 through want of sufficient accommodation. See that Epacrises 

 and other winter-blooming plants are placed in a part of the 

 house where they will be fully exposed to the sun , so that 

 the wood may be well ripened and free blooming insured. 

 Examine frequently Heaths and other plants subject to 

 mildew, and apply sulphur as soon as it is perceived. Water 

 to be very carefully given at this season, especially in the 

 case of large specimens, for there is much more danger 

 of over-watering now than when the weather is warmer and 

 the plants more active ; therefore, look over the plants 

 frequently and never water until it is absolutely necessary. 

 Any of the late-growing Heaths which may be in want of 

 more pot room may still be shifted, but do not expose them 

 to cold winds, and water very carefully afterwards, for the 

 roots cannot be expected to progress very rapidly at this 

 season. Let everything requiring it be neatly tied at once. 



STOVE. 



Forcing must be avoided as much as possible, still the 

 cold nights must not be permitted to affect the temperature 

 so as to check materially the declining growth. Fall into 

 winter treatment as quietly and naturally as you can; to 

 accomplish this without sensibly affecting the healthy ap- 

 pearance of your plants is a great desideratum, and with 

 care quite within the reach of the anxious cultivator. 



FORCING-PIT. 



This important and indispensable erection now begins to 

 claim our attention. It may be termed the workshop of 

 decorative horticulture, for it is out of this department that 

 ornament and perfume must be obtained. Greenhouses and 

 conservatories always afford some flowering specimens even 

 in the midst of winter; but aided by this auxiliary they 

 may be stocked at all times during the winter and spring 

 months with suitable subjects in bloom. Take in an ample 

 supply of all kinds of shrubs fit for this purpose. This will 

 apply more particularly to American plants. All kinds of 

 Dutch bulbs must also be immediately potted and plunged 

 in a convenient situation ready to be removed, when wanted, 

 to the forcing-pit. 



PITS AND FRAMES. 



Early-struck cuttings to be removed to shelves in the 

 greenhouse or pits. If cuttings are now taken from Chry- 

 santhemums showing bloom, put three in a 48-sized pot, 

 and placed in a nice heat, they will soon root and bloom 

 beautifully for decorating the front of stages or clumps. — 

 W. Kbane. 



DOINGS OF THE LAST WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



The dry weather having caused Spinach to come up rather 

 late, instead of sowing again we planted a number of rows, 

 taking up patches of from three to five young plants, and 

 putting them in rows some 6 or 7 inches apart. These, 

 supplied with a little clean water, are now doing well. 

 In our stiff soil we do not make a practice of thinning 

 Spinach much, but rather cut out the young plants for use, 

 and leave it on the whole rather thick for winter. We find 

 that we have a better supply from not thinning it much in 

 the rows. In rich, light land we think it would be as well 

 to thin the August sowing in September, to about 4 or 

 6 inches apart. What is the best way to cook Spinach ? 

 The only time we tasted it truly delicious, it was thus 

 managed. The heads and leaves were washed well, and 

 allowed to drop all the water possible from them in an open 

 sieve, then turned into a saucepan and boiled or rather 

 steamed with their own juice. The chief of the cuisine told 

 us that boiling in water spoiled it. Certainly as we tasted 

 it it was delicious. 



Cabbages. — Planted a piece with our forward plants that 

 had previously been pricked out, lifting them with small 

 balls, and setting them in soil which had been well ex- 

 posed to the air after the Onions were taken off, in rows 

 2 feet apart, and 1 foot from plant to plant in the row. 

 This width is necessary if the crop is to stand over the 

 second autumn and winter. A clergyman who is a good 

 gardener told us the other day that he made it a point at 

 one time to pull up a spring Cabbage as soon as he had cut 

 from it, but that now he sees the propriety of leaving the 

 stumps to produce more. From many of our plants, besides 

 the fine one Cabbage in early spring or rather summer, we 

 have had three or four nice Cabbages in summer and au- 

 tumn, and now these plants have each heads consisting of 

 from five to a dozen nice young Coleworts. If thus left, 

 2 feet from row to row is not too much. Did we merely 

 take the first Cabbage, 1 foot from row to row would be 

 enough, and a vast amount of cutting would be obtained in 

 little room. What we said lately on leaving all the old 

 leaves and primings of heads, &c, between the rows, will be 

 found appropriate. In addition to rough hoeing, we would 

 manure-water the whole of the old piece if we could. It is 

 generally a rare fillbasket until the spring, if the winter 

 is not very severe. If thus treated with a little enriching 

 in autumn, they boil as sweet as young Coleworts ; but it 

 is well to encourage both. Coleworts, now heading, were 

 planted about 12 inches apart, and have had in this bright 

 weather a little sewage water. 



Onions. — Sowed a few lines for succession to those sown 

 in August. If the weather in winter should prove open, 

 these will be best for spring transplanting, as the earlier- 

 sown would be too forward. We prefer transplanting for 

 early bulbs to allowing the plants to remain where sown. 

 In stiff heavy land, if the plants remain where the seeds 

 were sown in autumn, the earth should be scraped away 

 from the surface of the bulbs, as otherwise they are apt to 

 come long-necked. Tied up a lot of summer Onions in 

 strings of different sizes, so that larger or smaller onrs may 

 be had at once as wanted. The White Spanish and the Tripoli 

 we like best for autumn sowing. It is only by autumn 

 sowing and transplanting that we can hope to rival the 

 foreign imported Onions. This season the Onions are firm 

 and sound, and fair as to size, but not so large as usual on 

 account of the drought. This second summer after the 

 rains is making all look bright and promising again. 



Caulifloivers. — Pricked out more as previously stated, and 

 watered those bearing, and successional crops, with sewage 

 water. A nice crisp Cauliflower is what we find people 

 never tire of unless presented in too great quantity. 



Mushrooms. — Spawned the first piece in a shallow bed in 

 the Mushroom-house, and just surfaced it with a little fresh 

 droppings. We will allow it to remain a few days before 

 earthing-up. Our beds in the open shady shed are covered, 

 so that we have no need to hunt the pastures, and the 

 home-grown are far more juicy and fleshy than those in 

 the open fields. Before we took to the open shady shed 

 in summer we used to be troubled with thin maggoty 

 Mushrooms in houses in July and August, but we have now 



