October 25, 1864. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



327 



VINES PLANTED INSIDE AND OUTSIDE 

 A VINEEY. 



I have Vines (six in number), planted outside my cold 

 vinery. Inside is a very good border about 2 feet deep. I 

 have been thinking I could plant a few Vines here to fill up 

 the vacancies between the present Vines. The borders are 

 on lime rock and well drained. Do you think the difference 

 of temperature in the borders would prevent their being 

 grown together ? — A Young Beginner. 



[Not at all. The Vines will not interfere with each other, 

 though those planted inside may come a little earlier. You 

 might plant so as to have all the Vines ultimately inside, 

 with means for the roots to go out, and then if disposed 

 you might cut out the outside ones as those inside filled the 

 house ; but planted in both positions the Vines will do well 

 enough.] 



BULBS FOE FLOWER GAEDEN DECOEATION. 



(Continued from page 2S7.) 



RANUNCULUS. 



These are deserving of more extended cultivation. Being 

 symmetrical in form, brilliant in colour, offering almost every 

 hue found in flowers, and the petals converging to the ex- 

 quisite moulding of. the florist's hemispherical outline, the 

 Ranunculus is unequalled by any of our much- vaunted bed- 

 ding plants, and worthy of every care. If we wanted a proof 

 that Ranunculuses are something more than common, it is 

 the attention demanded for then cultivation — not that they 

 axe difficult to grow, but they require something more then 

 ordinary care. 



The essentials to success are — first, a free, rich, deep soil ; 

 second, an open situation, but sheltered from cold cutting 

 winds ; third, though delighting in a moist soil, the Ranun- 

 culus is very impatient of those which are cold and un- 

 drained; fourth, not to bury the roots too deeply in the soil, 

 1 to 1 J inch being sufficient in heavy ground, and 2 inches 

 in light soils; fifth, copious supplies of water when the foliage 

 is advancing and the bloom-buds or flower-knots for min g, 

 also when in flower ; sixth, slight protection from frost. 



The ground in which Ranunculuses are to be planted 

 should be dug deeply, 2 feet is not too deep, and at least 

 3 inches thick of well-rotted manure should be worked into 

 the soil. If the ground is of a light nature cow or sheep 

 dung, because cool, is to be preferred. If the soil where 

 the bed is to be formed is not sufficiently deep, the under- 

 stratum must be taken out to the above depth, and some 

 good, sound, turfy loam put in its place, working the manure 

 in along with the loam to a depth of 20 inches, and on this 

 is laid 4 inches deep of soil in which the bulbs or roots are 

 to be placed. 



If the soil is of a very unsuitable character, the beds may 

 be taken out to the depth of 2 feet, and filled up with a 

 compost of hazelly turfy loam, formed of rotted turves a year 

 old, mixed with one-third of well-decayed manure. The 

 materials employed should be well exposed to the action of 

 frost and air for some time, especially if the soil is heavy. 

 In that case the bed will be prepared in autumn, and left 

 rough, so that frost and exposure may do the work of pul- 

 verisation. 



In soils of a not very wet nature it is preferable to plant 

 in the autumn, though February and March are the usual 

 periods. Autumn planting, however, is preferable on light 

 soils, and not the less on account of the blooming being 

 earlier, and I therefore plant in the beginning of November. 

 On heavy, very damp soils, however, I have occasionally 

 planted in February, but quite as much because the soil 

 was not in a fit state for planting in autumn, as through 

 any fears entertained as to the plants not doing well over 

 winter. In fact, I find more deaths from spring than from 

 autumn planting. The secret in growing Ranunculuses is 

 to plant them at such a time that their fibres may penetrate 

 to a sufficient depth to be proof against the drought of 

 spring, if not there will be a failure in the bloom, many not 

 showing a single flower, or if they do they will not come to 

 perfection, the blooms being small, ill-formed, and of short 

 duration. If only the ground be drained effectually, I have 

 no hesitation in saying that they will bloom earlier, quite 



as well, and often better, if planted from November 1st to 

 December 15th, as when planted in February or March. 



I would recommend planting the Turban Ranunculuses in 

 November, and the Persian, too, if the soil be free of stag- 

 nant water, and not later than the first week in December, 

 in drills 6 inches apart, and 21 inches deep, placing the 

 tubers with their claws downwards, firmly pressing them 

 into the ground, and then covering with 2 inches of soil, but 

 if the latter is wet an inch of sand should be put on first, and 

 then the proper thickness of soil. A little before, or by 

 Christmas, cover the bed with an inch of leaf mould about 

 half decomposed, and during frost carefully look after the 

 beds, pressing in gently with the fingers any roots that may 

 be thrown up to the surface. Some cover the beds with a 

 layer of protecting materials, as tan, litter, &e. ; I have 

 never found it necessary, and if put on at all, it should be 

 removed before the foliage appears, otherwise it will in all 

 probability prove their ruin. On the other hand, the inch of 

 partly decomposed leaves is almost reduced to nothing by 

 spring, and after acting in winter as a protection will serve 

 in spring to retain moisture, and prevent the surface cracking. 



In April and May, the Ranunculus owing to forming its 

 roots near the surface is unable to withstand dryness of the 

 soil : hence it is necessary to water twice a-week, or more or 

 less frequently according to circumstances, a good bloom 

 being dependant on maintaining a uniform degree of mois- 

 ture in the soil in dry periods. After the flower-buds appear, 

 and whilst in bloom, water between the rows every other 

 day ; but when the flowers fade discontinue watering ; after 

 the foliage turns yellow take up, dry, and store in a cool, 

 dry place. In watering give a thorough soaking, surface 

 waterings being worse than useless, for by keeping the sur- 

 face moist under a bro ilin g sun evaporation is excessive, 

 and the temperature lessened, which cannot fail to weaken 

 the plants. It is the fibres that want the moisture, and to 

 reach these it must be given copiously. Dribblings are of 

 no use. Cold, dry air is very injurious to the Ranunculus. 



Of Turban Ranunculus, the best for grouping are — 

 Romano, scarlet ; Turban d'Or, scarlet and gold ; Sera- 

 phique, yellow; Hercules, white; Souci Dore, spotted; Gran- 

 diflora, crimson ; Merveilleuse, yellow ; and Turban Noir, 

 maroon. 



Of Persian, choose Bella Donna, white, spotted purple; 

 Mont Blanc, white ; Nosegay, yellow, brown-spotted, and 

 sweet-scented; (Eil Noir, black; Prince de Galitzin, yellow, 

 brown-spotted; Fireball, bright red; and Commodore Napier, 

 yellow, brown-edged. 



ANEMONES. 



Elegant in foliage, and brilliant in the varied hues of 

 their flowers, these are adapted for producing splendid 

 groups or masses in the flower garden. They delight in 

 an open soil and situation, but will thrive in all soils free 

 of stagnant water. The tubers intended to furnish an early 

 bloom should be planted in October, the ground being pre- 

 viously dug, and a liberal dressing of leaf mould or tho- 

 roughly decomposed manure worked in. Plant if possible 

 during dry weather, about 2 inches deep, and from 6 to 9 

 inches apart, gently pressing them, for the roots are fragile ; 

 and use a little care in placing the right end uppermost. 



In January go over the beds, and after stopping up with 

 dry soil all holes made by the foliage pushing through, or 

 worms, place a couple of inches of half-decayed leaves over 

 the beds, between the foliage, which will act as a protection 

 to the crowns and also to the young foliage springing there- 

 from. 



There is a difference as to the time of planting. Some 

 prefer January to October, but I have found October the best 

 time for planting to exhibit them in bloom in spring, so that 

 they may make way for bedding plants at a later period ; 

 whereas, if they are planted in January or February the 

 blooming is not past until far on in July, and it is then late 

 for planting bedding plants. I therefore advise their being 

 planted hi October or at latest by the beginning of Decem- 

 ber. I do not say I would adopt this treatment with a 

 choice collection ; but, nevertheless, I think that Anemones 

 do not like too long a period of rest, but rather the contrary, 

 it being better to take up rather early to prevent that ten- 

 dency to commence growth immediately after maturity. 

 Nature is in favour of planting the Anemone in October, as 

 that is the time when her influences are at work on the 



