October 25, 1864. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



339 



Advice (J. A.).— Tou appear to Bee the difficulties so thoroughly yourself 

 as to stand in little need of advice. As to the vineries, we think it almost a 

 pity to meddle with them ; but dividing the range into three, instead of two, 

 would enable you to have an early house nest the boiler, with less consump- 

 tion of fuel than you would need for a larger house. Secondly, As the range 

 of vineries is only 61 feet, we think that taking out part of the glass in the 

 centre, and forming a span-roof there from north to south, would involve 

 considerable labour and expense, and do much to imrair the usefulness of 

 the vineries, and also to mar the symmetry which your employer values so 

 much. Thirdly, On the west side of the vineries there is an open space, with 

 apit in front of it in line with the outside Vine-border, and west of the open 

 space is an orchard-house and we certainly would recommend you to have 

 a house in that open space if it were not so wide as the orchard-house. 

 This would be much better than interfering with the general outline of the 

 vineries, such as having a span-roof in the centre of them, as we have fre- 

 quently proved that putting up a new house is often an easier and less ex- 

 pensive affair than cutting, changing, and altering the appearance of an old 

 one. Fourth, This plan would give you symmetry, as the pit you now have, 

 with the new house behind it, would form the centre, the orchard-houses 

 the west wing, and the vineries the east wing. Fifth, If you choose to 

 increase your houses eastward, we do not see that, though the ground and 

 the wall drop there, the new houses, being on a different level, would 

 do away with symmetry. If so disposed on this lower level, making the 

 vineries the centre, you might hare the pit and house behind it, and an 

 orchard -house as on* the west side. Sixth, We question if you will heat 

 much cheaper by one boiler, unless you choose to alter the position of the 

 boiler— that is, on the supposition that you do not go farther eastward, and 

 also on the supposition that the new house, pit, and vineries, are on a similar 

 level. If so, if the late vinery were changed into an early one, you could 

 easily heat it and the pit from a boiler placed at the back of the vinery, and 

 without heating any other part, unless yon liked. If the piping in the pit 

 is on a much lower level, then, but for the un sightliness of the present 

 stokehole in the path, that would be the best place for your one boiler. But, 

 seventhly, If you contemplate having a house or a pit at the east end of a 

 vinery, and perhaps a house without heat farther east stili, tben it would be 

 desirable to have the houses needing most heat at that end, and to place 

 your boilsr at the lowest part ; and the simplest plan then would be to take 

 a flow and return from the boiler to the farthest point you wished to heat, 

 and then take flow and return from these to every house you wished to heat 

 separately. By this means you would always have a little heat from the 

 pipes in all the houses, but the flow and return need not be more than 

 3 inches, and when you did not want the heat you could give a little more 

 air. This would be the simplest plan. If you increased the number of 

 houses, however, you would require to have two boilers near together, in 

 case you should have an accident with one. "With eight or nine places it is 

 a risk to depend entirely on one boiler. For such work we would prefer 

 upright tubular or conical boilers. The lowering of the top lights of the 

 vinery, and making a hip instead, would so far lessen the length of the 

 rafters. We see no advantage in doing so. We do not see how you could 

 have the lights now at top, for what would you form the hip with? Surely 

 not with an opaque hip— that would be worse still. We are obliged by 

 your experience of Cloth of Gold. It has varied much this season. Perhaps 

 Golden Chain has never done better than this year. 



Thorn Hedges Thin at the Bottom (A Five-years Subscriber). —If they 

 are too thin for a fence to prevent the intrusion of cattle, and you can dis- 

 pense with them as such for a year or two, you may cut them down to 1 foot 

 from the ground, and this any time from that at which the quicks are leafless 

 to the middle of March, but the earlier the better. If the fences cannot be 

 dispensed with for a year or two it would be preferable to lay the Thorns, 

 cutting each stem 9 inches from the ground about three-parts through, and 

 bringing the top down in an oblique direction, so that a fence 2 feet 6 inches 

 or 3 feet high may be formed, crossing the smaller branches, so as to secure 

 them in the position in which they are placed. In this way the hedge will 

 become close at the bottom by the production of shoots below the cut part; 

 but if the top be taken clean off a much better fence will be the result. 

 There is no fear of frost injuring the quicks if they be cut in autumn. 



Moving Common Hardy Ferns (Rusticus).— If it be the common Bracken 

 (Pteris aquilina), it is rather difficult of transplantation. To succeed at 

 all with it select that which is growing the least, and dig it up in patches 

 now, or from this time up to the appearance of young growths in spring, 

 going so deep as to secure the underground creeping steuis, taking up with 

 the earth entire about them, and planting in the places desired. All 

 other kinds of common Ferns may be taken up now with a ball of earth to 

 them, or it may be deferred until March. If care be taken not to stub them 

 up, but to preserve a nice ball to each plant, they will move safely and make 

 quite a show in the first year, especially if they be planted in a little leaf 

 mould, and have a good watering after planting if the weather be dry. If 

 planted now they will not require watering. 



Hoya carnosa Culture— Pruning Climbing Roses ( Hoya). — The Hoya 

 does well m a compost of turfy light loam, leaf mould, and peat, in equal 

 parts, with about one-sixth of broken potsherds, or pieces of charcoal the 

 size of a Walnut, added, using besides a like proportion of silver or other 

 sharp sand. The drainage should be perfect, and occupy at least one-third 

 the depth of the pot. It requires but little water in winter, and at other 

 times about half the quantity given to ordinary greenhouse plants, aa 

 Fuchsias, &c. If an ornamental-foliaged climber is wanted, there is 

 nothing handsomer than the well-known Cissus discolor, and it likes a little 

 shade ; but if there is no shade from plants overhead, Passiflora Decaisneana, 

 or Stephanotis floribunda, are quick-growing and fine climbers. "Sour 

 management of the climbing Roses is quite right, and we cannot improve 

 on your practice, except it be that if the old shoots are worn out they would 

 be better displaced by younger shoots. In that case the strong shoots 

 springing from the base of the trees should be allowed to grow trained in 

 to the wall, and the old shoots cut away to make room for them, and 

 eventually entirely removed. Our "Garden Manual" contains directions 

 for the cultivation of the plants named, and may be had from our office free 

 by post for twenty stamps. 



Peaches (Persica).— For late varieties procure Walburton Admirable and 

 Gregory's Late. We believe that Mr. Osborne, nurseryman, Fulham, has 

 Rust's Thames Bank Peach. 



Tritonia adrea in a Pot Done Blooming (J. Z0- — Pot it now, and 

 cut down the foliage to the surface when it decays. Keep dry, but not dust 

 dry, during the winter, and shelter in a pit or cold greenhouse, from which 

 frost is barely excluded. 



Seedling Pansy {An Old Subscriber).— It is quite equal to many other 

 varieties, but far inferior to the best now in our florists' lists. 



Moving Hollies— Plants Under Yew Trees (TV.).— Hollies which have 

 not been transplanted frequently will not move safely at any season, and we 

 fear a worse time could not be selected than the present. Wet showery 

 weather in April and May is the most suitable time. We know of no tree 

 or plants that will grow under the shade of a Yew tree, except the different 

 varieties of Vinca or Periwinkle, both green and variegated. 



Constructing a Vinbry (A Novice).— You had better have the back wall 

 18 or 20 feet in height, as the front is 2£ feet. On that space of ground, 

 50 feet wide and 160 feet long, you could have about four houses, or five, 

 according to the height. Thus supposing the first at the north end to be 

 13 feet in height, 20 feet in 'front of that, you might have one 14 or 15 feet in 

 height at back, and as you decrease the height you lessen the shade from 

 the one in front. Your best plan is to erect poles of the proposed height of 

 back and front, with a diagonal line representing the glass between them, 

 and place these in a line from north to south, and see how the one does shade 

 or not the slopes or glass of the house behind it. We could calculate this 

 very nicely for you, and at much trouble might show how the house would 

 be influenced by the shade in the different months of the year, but the sticks 

 w ill show you all you want, and it is part of our system not to do for our 

 friends what they can better do for themselves. Be assured that what the 

 nurseryman told you i3 all nonsense. Of course, it is not to be understood 

 that you are to force the Vines the first season ; but the glass will warm the 

 soil as well as the atmosphere, and provided you give enough of air, plant 

 with the glass on by all means, as it will help not only to give you better 

 growth, but to ripen that growth sufficiently. 



Clarke's Gas and Hot-wates Apparatus (Yorkshire).— The manufac- 

 turer is Mr. T. C Clarke, Eagle Iron Foundry, 25, Seel Street, Liverpool. 



Dwarf Plum Trees {An Amateur Horticulturist).— Plum trees may be 

 grown successfully as bushes ; but, as no dwarfing stock like the quince for 

 the Pear, or the paradise apple for the Apple, has been discovered for Plums, 

 they are apt to grow too vigorously, even when their young shoots are pinched 

 in to three or four leaves ail the summer. This may, however, be remedied by 

 taking up the trees biennially in November and replanting them. The 

 central branches of your Apple trees may be shortenpd to half their length 

 without, injuring the trees. No injury can result from rain to the cut sur- 

 face. The month of February is, on the whole, the best month for winter 

 pruning fruit trees. 



Planting Vine From a Pot (B. T. JS.).— The Vine turned out from a 

 pot into a " curate's vinery" will do very well, but it depends upon the 

 growth it has made this season whether it will produce a crop next year. 



Budded Roses (J. P., Ellington).— Remove the bandages. Early in next 

 dpring cut off the shoot at two joints above the inserted bud, and when the 

 shoot from this bud is about 4 inches long stop it. During May the two 

 joints of the stock shoot may be pruned off close to the inserted bud. 



Book (Revd. J. M. F.).— Mc'Intosli's "Greenhouse, Hothouse, and 

 1 Stove" may suit you, but we believe the " Cottage Gardeners' Dictionary " 

 is more easy for reference. 



Names op Fruit [J. J. T.).— Pears.— 1, Uvedale's St. Germain; 4, Ne 

 Plus Meuris ; 5, Beurre* d'Aremberg ; 6, Bern-re" de Ranee ; 7, Beurre" 

 d'Aremberg; 8, Beurre de Capiaumont ; 9, Easter Bent-re - ; 10, Swan's 

 Egg. Apples.— 2, Warner's King; 3, Dutch Codlin ; 4, Ribston Pippin; 

 5, Rotten; 6, Golden Winter Pearmaia : 7, 8, and 9, Ribston Pippin; 

 10, Lewis's Incomparable; 13, Dutch Codlin; 16, Herefordshire Pearmain; 



15, Lincolnshire Reinette; 19, Yorkshire Greening; 33, White Costin. 

 Others not recognised. It is really unconscionable to send so many. 

 {if. H. J.).— 2, Fearn's Pippin ; 3, Trumpington ; 5, Devoushire Quarren- 

 don; 6, Manks Codlin; 7, Yellow Ingestrie ; 11, Golden Harvey; 14, Passe 

 Colmar; 15, Doyenne* Boussoch ; 16, Bezi Vaet ; 18, Brown Beurre^ 

 1 9, Rotten ; 20, Bella Apres Noel ; 22, Forelle ; 23, Beurre* Diel ; 24, Berga- 

 motte Cadette. Others not recognised. (C. R.).— l, Beurre Diel; 2, Beurre" 

 de Ranee; 3, Duchesse d'Angouleme. [Old Sitbscriber).— 3, Hacon's In- 

 comparable; 4, Beurre* Diel; 5, Ne Plus Meuris; 7, Beurre* de Ranee; 

 8, Suffolk Thorn; 9, Gendesheim; 11, Emperor Alexander ; 12, ApiRose; 

 13, Golden Nonpareil; 14, Franklin's Golden Pippin; 15, Golden Knob; 



16, Tower of Glammis ; 17, Gloria Mundi ; 18, Dumelow's Seedling; 

 19, Borovltski. Others not recognised. The specimens were very fine. 

 ( <?. J?.).— 1, Chaumontel ; 2, Flemish Beauty ; 3, Chaumontel; 4, Beurre* de 

 Ranee ; 5, Beurre d'Aremberg ; 7, Ne Plus Meuris ; S, Beurre* Diel. ( W. G.).^ 

 2, Adams's Pearmain; 4, Golden Reinette; 5, Graveustein ; 8, Wyken r 

 Pippin; 11, Hughes' Golden Pippin; 13, Fearn's Pippin; 14, Reinette da 

 Canada The Pear is Doyenne* Blanc. Others not recognised. ( W. O. R.). 

 — 1, Trebbiano; 2, Prolific Sweetwater. The first requires more heat than 

 the Black Hamburgh. 



Names of Plants (A Nairnshire Subscriber).— -It is Stenocarpus Cun- 

 ningham:. Its flowers are most beautiful, in candelabrum-like umbels, 

 clothed with most vivid orange scarlet down. It does not bloom until it 

 has attained a height of 15 or more feet ; requires a greenhouse and abund- 

 ance of light; is evergreen, and a native of Moreton Bay. (Constant 

 Reader). — Your lemon-scented plant is Dictamnus fraxinella. (Stockport). 

 — 1, Hieracium crocatum ; 2, Jasione montana ; 3, Too young to be named; 

 4, Thrincia hirta (R. H.).—l, Sericographis Ghiesbregtiana ; 2, Cannot be 

 named as sent; 3, Deedalacanthus nervosus; 4, Peristrophe speciosa. 

 (.4. L. Melville). — Agapanthus umbellatu3, var. foliis vanegatis, sometimes 

 called Agapanthus variegatns in gardens. 



POULTRY, BEE. and HOUSEHOLD CHRONICLE. 



POULTRY SHOWS IN THE SOUTH. 



We recollect the building of the Burlington Arcade. As 

 it approached completion there were crowds at each end, 

 and among them men of all callings, admiring and con- 

 demning, as the case might be. A butcher heard all that 

 was said, and at once declared it was fit for one thing only 

 — it would make a first-rate butchers' market. He saw it 

 only as connected with his trade. We are apt to view all 



