December 20, 1864. ] JOUftNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



499 



Chrysanthemums wot Flowering (A Young Amateur). — 'We have little 

 doubt that stopping them so late as the middle of July was the cause, and 

 certainly so if you live in a cold district. 



Vine-grafting (A Subscriber).— Take the scions from the Barbarosea at 

 the time of winter pruning, and select such shoots as have the wood well 

 ripened, the joints short or close together, and moderately strong, or about 

 the thickness of the middle finger, not thicker, nor of smaller size than 

 that. Other sizes and descriptions of wood will of course do, but for 

 a etrong stock wo like the scion strong; but if the stock be young- and 

 small the scion should be of equal size, or rather under than above the thick- 

 ness of the stock. Keep the scions with their lowest ends stuck ia moist 

 soil in a cool house. When the eyes of the stock begin to 

 swell, cut it down to within a few inches of the place desired 

 for the insertion of the graft or scion. Choosing a smooth 

 part of the stock, about 6 inches below the point to which 

 the stock is headed down, with a sharp knife take a slip 

 of wood about an inch and a half long from the side of the 

 stock (6), making a clean cut. Take the scion (a), and cut 

 it from behind an eye downwards, so that the cut m^de may 

 exactly correspond with that on the stock. The cut should 

 be made at the lowest end of scion. Nest make a sloping- 

 downwards cut in the stock, and about three-quarters of 

 an inch in length, and half an inch deep, commencing half 

 an inch from the upper part of the first cut. A sloping cut 

 must now be made in the scion horn the bottom upwards, 

 exactly corresponding to the cleft made in the stock, so 

 that when the scion and stock are joined together they will 

 fit into each other. Insert the scion in the stock after 

 heading the scion down to three eyes, taking care that the 

 two fit bark to bark, or, if the stock be thick, on one side 

 at least. On this the success of the operation depends; 

 therefore particular care must be taken to insure the bark 

 of t-ciou and stock being in contact. The scion being 

 adjusted, bind it closely to the stock, but not too lightly, and 

 he very careful not to displace the s?ion. Matting or 

 Cuba bast is the best for tying. The point of union may 

 then be covered with clay, but if the operation is neatly 

 performed a little sphagnum wrapped round will answer 

 qu^te as well. If the scion take, the matting may be 

 loosened in about six weeks, and removed altogether a 

 fortnight afterwards; and when the graft grows vigorously 

 that part of the stock above the graft should be cut away, 

 which can be done more safely at the summer than at the 

 winter pruning. One shoot only will be required to train 

 up the rafter, so that the strongest being selected alter the 

 scion fairly shoots the other two may be rubbed off. If it 

 be late before the stock is ready for grafting the scion may be stuck in a 

 Potato. The time of grafting will depend on the time of yeur when the 

 stock commences growth. So far as we know the stock has no influence 

 on the flavour of the fruit, and a Barbarossa on a Black Hamburgh will 

 have the ?ame flavour as iF on its own roots, just the same as Peaches on 

 the Plum have no trace of the flavour of Plums. 



Shifting Heaths and Azaleas (A Constant Reader, Dunbar).— When 

 the plants have done blooming and are beginning to grow, is a good season 

 to shift these. March is a good time to shift Heaths ; April, May, and June 

 for Azaleas blooming in the months preceding those named. Mildew on 

 Heaths is chiefly caused through a damp close atmosphere, for which there 

 is no remedy but more efficient ventilation. 



Pyracantha Pruning— Chrysanthemum Cuttings— Ferns Potting — 

 Camelua-buds not Expanding {Hose-bud). — The Pyracamha should be 

 pruned in spring, cutting out or thinning the shoots, so that they may not 

 overgrow each other nor grow too far from the wall. By training-in some 

 young shoots from the bottom between the old, you will probably obtain 

 hemes at the bottom as well as the upper part of the shrub. Pot the 

 cuttings of Chrysanthemums singly in small pots, and place in a gentle heat 

 where they will soon root. When rooted harden off and winter in a cold 

 frame, protecting from severe frost by a covering of mats. Pot in March 

 into 24's, stopping the plants to five leaves ; pot again in May into nine-inch 

 pots, and if large plants are desired, transfer them to 12 or 13-inch pots 

 early in July. A compost of turfy loam and leaf mould, two-thirds of the 

 former to one of the latter, will grow these plants well, adding a little sharp 

 sand if the soil seems deficient of it. The plants may be stopped in Apiil 

 to make them bushy, again in the latter part of May, and for the last time 

 by the middle of July. The most suitable time to pot Maiden-hair Ferns 

 and all Ferns, is before or when they begin to grow, and that time is March 

 or the beginning of April. The Camellia does not expand through an im- 

 perfect root-action, and there is no remedy but to plunge in a mild bottom 

 heat, with a top heat of 50° by night. 



Fruit Trees on an East Wall {Under the Shade).— We have no doubt 

 that Pears would do the best on clay soil in a damp climate. You do not 

 state the height of ihe wall. If it be low (10 feet), one tree will be sufficient; 

 but if more than that height two will be required. By the Duche^se Pear 

 of Jersey, we presume you mean Duchesse d'Angoulerae, a noble-looking 

 Pear, hut with us not first-rate from a wall, though rich und melting from 

 espaliers. We think Marie Louise, in season in October and November, and 

 Glou Morceau, in season in December and January, will suit > ou. It will be 

 a good plan to dig a rather large hole and put in some goud loam or rich 

 compost so as to give them a good start. There is no belter stimulant for 

 Vines in such a position as yours than applications of weak liquid manure 

 once or twice a-week. The Arums died down through the dryness of the 

 situation we shouhi think. 



Grafting Roses on the Manetti Stock^ Subscriber and Lover of 

 Moses). — Prior to grafting your stocks should have been established a year 

 in pots. You may, however, do as you say, pot them now or not until you 

 graft them in February, and then plunge them in a hotbed. You may graft 

 before potting, and you will need no clay, only gratt low enough that the 

 point of uniou can be covered firmly with soil, leaving three or four buds of 

 the graft above the surface. Whip-grafting is the best mode, and that will 

 render it necessary to head down the stock at the time of grafting. Owing 

 to the stocks not being established a year in pots, the plants will only make 

 moderate growths the first season. Except some few of the Hybrid Per- 

 petuate, and these, the dwarf and moderate growers, all do well on the 

 ManetU stock. To give names would only be repeating them from a cata- 

 logue. 



Diseased Peak Trees (Pyrus).— The cracked fruit and blotched leaves 

 indicate that the roots do not supply sufficient sap. Remove the soil from 

 above the roots within a circuit of 4 or 5 feet round each tree, and replace it 

 with fresh soil mixed with well-decomposed stable manure. Mulch over the 

 roots in summer. Your Mosses aro—1, Bryum ligulatum; 2, Hypnum 

 loreum. 



Various [C. E.).— We have carefully read over your two letters. We 

 regret we cannot give you a correct section of the Muscat-house at Enville, 

 as at this distance of time we might make a mistake in some minute matters. 

 We will, however, privately put you in a way for securing what you want. 

 Meanwhile the description given at page 354 of an early vinery would supply 

 much of what you want for an early Muscat -house. In a house 14 feet wide 

 we would have three four-inch pipes for bottom heat, either covered with 

 rubble or, better sull, in a chamber with slate over it, and 6 or 8 inches of 

 rubble over the slate, and then from 20 to 24 inches of open turfy soil. The 

 rubble with openings would secure thorough drainage. One reason why 

 the Vines planted in old Pine-beds in large houses, after all the tan was 

 removed, and suitable soil was put in its place, were more affected with 

 mildew than in the case of Vines planted out of doors, we believe to be 

 owing to the want of drainage, and perhaps the want of heat at the roots. 

 If two four-inch pipes had been placed in the bottom of these old Pine-beds, 

 rough rubble or stout slate placed over them, 6 or 8 inches of rubble above 

 that, with a few little openings in the front wall of the pit to let out extra 

 moisture, and then plenty of piping for atmospheric heating, so as to give 

 plenty of air, we believe that mildew could scarcely be present, or continue 

 long if it did make its appearance. In such circumstances we have seen tine 

 Grapes produced free from all disease, as the roots and tops were completely 

 under control. We have seldom seen a more elegant house for Pines than 

 the section shown at page 355, and commanding more conveniences. Were 

 that house to be used for an early vinery or Muscat-house we would prefer 

 the house to be 1 foot or 15 inches higher at the ridge. We would require 

 no pits, but have a latticed path underneath the ridge, four pipes, as now, 

 in a shallow chamber, rubble above, and then the soil, four pipes in front 

 above the level of the shelf shown, and two at back close to the wall. The 

 Vines to be planted behind the front pipes and in front of the back pipes — 

 say a foot distant in either case. But we feel convinced that in saying this 

 your judgment is quite as much to be relied on as ours. Your present long 

 range of houses facing south-east would be much improved by a hipped 

 roof. So far as we recollect the sash-bars and glazing were old. The 

 heavy rafters and sash-bars gave a great amount of shade. The caping of 

 the rafters might be reduced with advantage, and when fresh sashes were 

 wanted, the glazing with large instead of small squares would be a great 

 adrantage. It is impossible in your climate to have too much sunlight if 

 you have ventilating power to counteract it when necessary. We should 

 approve of your proposed arrangements for such a new range, and a large 

 tubular boiler, or even a saddle-back would answer. If we have any pre- 

 ference for the former it is because it is easier fed with fuel trom the top. 

 If you UBe the whole square for forcing purposes we would prefer having 

 two boilers to use combined or separately— the one as a reserve. It is too 

 much risk to have such a square of forcing-houses depending on one boiler. 

 After seeing much, and experiencing much, and incidentally speaking well 

 of some boilers, our real opinion is that there is but little difference between 

 them when well set and well wrought. As to iron houses, they have the 

 advantage of lightness and durability, and if well painted and carefully 

 glazed— that is, neither tight nor loose, they will answer the purpose quite 

 as well as wood if the sashes are fixed. Houses will ever be more economi- 

 cally managed if the roofs are fixtures, and ihe ventilators placed back and 

 front, independently of the roofs. For general purposes it is a good plan 

 to have the rafters and main supports of iron, aud the sashes of wood. 

 Great lightness will thus be secured, and the houses will require much less 

 firing than if all the bars were also of iron. Paint as you will, iron roofs 

 will cost more for fuel, and require more ventilating power in summer. 

 One great drawback in iron roofs is that if neglected as to painting the drip 

 from them is ruinous to all vegetation beneath them. Wooden houses are 

 now built very light, bat where much was done and fine effect an object, 

 before building it would be worth your whilo to look at the houses of Mr. 

 Bewley, Blackrock, near Dublin, where some arrangements will be found 

 worthy of adoption, or affording hints for our practice. We rejoice to know 

 that the grounds at your ancient place are likely to be laid out so beautifully. 

 You will find some good hints in the *'Vine Manual" published at our 

 office. 



Instruction [A Young TJnder-Gardener).— We should have answered you 

 sooner but your letter was overlooked. We should recommend you to select 

 Trentham. 



British Ferns [ W. W. Densloiv) .—Mr . F. Y. Brocas, of 25, Hart Street, 

 Bloomsbury Square, can supply collections of Ferns as required. Mr. 

 Brocas has for some time been preparing sets of Ferns and other plants for 

 Christmas and New Year's presents. 



Names of Fruits (D. 0. Jt./.—They must be local varieties, for we do 

 not recognise one of them. They probably came from the cider district. 



Names of Mosses (C. P.). — 1, Hypnum alopecurum; 2, Bryum ligu- 

 latum; 3, Marehantia ; 4, Dicranum scoparium (approaching Dicranum. 

 niajus) ; 5, Dicranum scoparium or Dicranum Dillenii; 6, Polystichum 

 undulatum ; 7, Hypnum splendensj 8, Hypnum dendroides. 



Names of Plants {Trevallyn).— \ t Polypodium vulgare, and 2, its var. 

 camhncum ; 3, Blechnum spicant. tC. D., Westmeath).—\, Lastrea dila- 

 tata; 2, Asplenium adiantum-nigrum. (G. L.).~ Calanthe vestita. (A 

 Welshman). — 1, Maxillaria, perhaps aurea-fulva; the specimen is insuffi- 

 cient; 2, Next week; 3, Lomaria borealis; 4, The young barren frond of 

 some Lomaria, perhaps lanceolata; 5, Pteris creticaj 6, Asplenium bulbi- 

 ferum. [M. <?.). — 1, Cyrtomium falcatum ; 2, Adiantum concinnum ; 3, A. re- 

 niforme; 4, Selaginella robusta ; 5, Selaginella sp. (bad specimen) ; 6, As- 

 pidiuin hispidulum ; 7, Selaginella pubescens. (A Welshman).— 2, Sela- 

 ginella Galeottii. (A Lady subscriber) .— 1, Lastrea dilatata; 2, Selaginella 

 pubescens ; 3, Asplenium marinum ; 4, unnameable from such a bad 

 specimen. 



POULTRY, BEE, and HOUSEHOLD CHRONICLE. 



BRAHMA POOTRAS. 

 In discussing the purity of any breed, the defence must 

 depend somewhat on the nature of the attack. The assail- 



