SMALL SAWMILLS, THEIR EQUIPMENT, ETC. 39 



wedge when he needs it. In doing this a gang (if sawyers loses more 

 time each day than is represented by the cost of a set of good steel 

 wedges. If not equipped with a maul, a sawyer will spoil a dollar 

 ax in five minutes trying to drive steel wedges with it. Tying the 

 wedges together with baling wire when not in use will prevent them 

 from being lost. Each gang should have a flat bottle, easily carried 

 in the hip pocket, to hold kerosene with which to spray the saw 

 occasionally. 



CROSSCUT SAV/S. 



Ordinarily a 6-foot saw is best adapted to the size of timber in the 

 inter-mountain country. In some stands, however, a longer saw is 

 necessary. The back of the saw is always somewhat thinner than 

 the gauge of the teeth, and usually about two gauges heavier on the 

 ends, which makes it stiffer and prevents "buckling" when the 

 sawyer pushes a trifle on the back stroke. 



There are two kinds of teeth, viz., the cutting teeth and rakers. 

 Only the points of the cutters actually cut into the fiber; the rakers 

 are meant to plane off the fiber severed by the cutting teeth and to 

 drag the sawdust out of the cut. A curved saw will cut faster and 

 with less exertion than a straight saw. 



A filer's outfit consists of a jointer, a r^iker tooth gauge, files, 

 a raker swage, a set block, and a light hammer. In fitting a saw the 

 teeth should first be jointed or made uniform in length. To do this 

 place a 9-inch file in the jointer and, by means of the large screw, 

 spring it to suit the curve of the saw and pass it lightly over the 

 points of the teeth until it touches the shortest tooth. Then place 

 the tooth gauge over the cleaner drag teeth and file them clown to the 

 gauge, afterwards filing them squarely across to a point as desired. 



If the saw requires setting, place the setting block on a log that 

 has been leveled to receive it, then place the saw upon the setting 

 block so that the point of the tooth to be set projects over the apex 

 of the beveled surface fully one-fourth of an inch. Then give two or 

 three strokes with a light hammer on the side of the tooth over the 

 apex fully one-fourth inch from the point which will usually give 

 the required set. Then move the tooth forward over the bevel or 

 channelling block and strike it a sharp blow directly over the point. 

 This will make a slight depression below the point of the tooth, 

 which serves to keep the cutting edges flush, giving them greater 

 cutting power and relieving the pressure on the back of the tooth. 

 Regulate the set by gauging each tooth with the tooth gauge. Take 

 the gauge in the left hand and place it against the side of the saw. 

 The point on the short end indicates the least set, and the point on 

 the long end indicates a little more set. Experienced saw filers say 

 that setting should never go lower than half the length of the tooth, 



k 



