VARIETIES OF CHEESE: DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. 19 



and cooked to 100° F., salted in the granular state, and pressed for 12 hours. 

 A cheese is 10 or 20 inches in diameter and 3 or 4 inches in thickness. Ripening 

 requires about one month at a temperature of 75° F. 



EMMENTAL. 



This is a hard, rennet cheese made from cows' milk, unskimmed, and has a 

 mild, somewhat sweetish flavor. It is characterized by holes or eyes which 

 develop to about the size of a cent in typical cheeses and are from 1 to 3 inches 

 apart. Cheese of the same kind made in the United States is known as Domes- 

 tic Swiss, and that made in the region of Lake Constance is called Algau Em- 

 mental. Other local names are Bellunese, Formaggio Dolce, Fontine d'Aosta, 

 and Thraanen. 



Emmental cheese originated in Canton Bern, Valley of Emmental, Switzer- 

 land, and is a very old variety. In the middle of the fifteenth century a cheese 

 probably of this type was manufactured in the Canton of Emmental. In the 

 middle of the seventeenth century the industry was well developed, and genuine 

 Emmental cheese was exported. In 1722 its manufacture under the name of 

 Gruyere is recorded in France, two cooperative societies having been organized 

 for the purpose. 



Emmental cheese is now manufactured in every civilized country. In the 

 United States there are many factories, principally in Wisconsin, New York, and 

 Ohio. In Switzerland the greater part of the milk produced is made into this 

 product, and large districts in France and northern Italy are devoted to its 

 manufacture. The best of the product made in Switzerland is exported, about 

 5,000.000 pounds confirm to the United States annually. The imported cheese 

 sells in this country at about 25 cents a pound wholesale, and the domestic 

 cheese sells at about 14 cents. Practically as good cheese can be manufactured 

 in the United States as in Switzerland, but prejudice, combined with the fact 

 that much of the domestic product is sold as imported, has held the price at a 

 low level. 



There is a slight difference in manipulation of the milk in making Emmental 

 cheese in this country as compared with Switzerland. In the latter country the 

 evening's and morning's milk are made up together, while in the U/nited States 

 it is popularly believed that the evening's milk must be made into cheese im- 

 mediately after milking, as is done with the morning's milk. 



In making the cheese in Switzerland the evening's milk is skimmed ; the fresh 

 morning's milk is heated to 108° or 110° F., and the cream from the evening's 

 milk is added and well stirred in. The evening's milk cooled with a little saf- 

 fron to color it, is then added, and the whole is mixed. The milk is then brought 

 to a temperature of 90° F. in summer and 95° F. in winter, and sufficient rennet 

 is added to coagulate the milk in 30 or 40 minutes. The whole process is carried 

 through in a huge copper kettle holding 300 gallons. The rennet used is the 

 calf's stomach soaked in whey for 24 hours. When the milk has thickened to 

 almost the desired point for cutting, which is practically the same as for ordi- 

 nary American or Cheddar cheese, the thin surface layer is scooped off and 

 turned wrong side up. This is supposed to aid in incorporating the layer of 

 ■ cream with the cheese. The curd is then cut very coarse by means of a so-called 

 harp. The cheesemaker, with a wooden scoop in each hand, then draws the 

 mass of curd toward him, that lying on the bottom of the kettle being brought 

 to the surface. At this point the cheesemaker and an assistant commence 

 stirring the curd with the harp, a breaker having first been fitted to the inside 

 of the kettle to interrupt the current of the whey and curd. The harps are given 



