VARIETIES OF CHEESE: DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. 55 



STEPPES. 



This name is applied to a Russian cheese made from whole milk. The milk 

 after the addition of coloring matter is heated to about 90° F. and treated with 

 sufficient rennet to coagulate it in 40 or 45 minutes. The curd is cut into 

 large cubes, the whey removed slowly, and the curd still further broken up 

 until the particles are uniformly about the size of peas. The curd is then 

 heated gradually to 100° or 104° F., the mass meanwhile being gently agitated. 

 After heating ceases, the stirring is kept up until the curd becomes dry, when 

 it is placed in molds 10 by 5i by 7 inches. After the cheeses are removed 

 from the molds they are turned frequently and five hours later are salted and 

 transferred to the curing cellar, where a temperature of about 55° F. is main- 

 tained. During the process of ripening the cheeses are worked occasionally 

 with salt water and frequently turned. 



STILTON. 



This is a hard, rennet cheese, the best of which is made from cows' milk to 

 which a portion of cream has been added. It was first made near the village 

 of Stilton, Huntingdonshire, England, about the middle of the eighteenth cen- 

 tury. It is now made principally in Leicestershire and western Rutlandshire, 

 though its manufacture has extended to other parts of England. Its manufac- 

 ture has been tried, though without success, in the United States. The cheese is 

 about 7 inches in diameter and 9 inches high and weighs 12 or 15 pounds. It 

 has a very characteristic wrinkled or ridged skin or rind, which is probably 

 caused by the drying of molds and bacteria on the surface. When cut it shows 

 blue or green portions of mold which give its characteristic piquant flavor. The 

 cheese belongs to the same group as the Roquefort of France and the Gorgonzola 

 of Italy. 



The morning's milk is put into a thin vat, the cream from the night's milk is 

 added, and the whole is brought to a temperature of 80° F., when the rennet is 

 added. It is claimed by some cheesemakers that the curd should be softer 

 when broken up or cut than the curd for Cheddar cheese, while by others it is 

 believed that it should become very firm before it is disturbed, allowing one or 

 two hours for setting. When sufficiently firm, the curd is dipped into cloths 

 which are placed in tin strainers. After draining for one hour, the cloths con- 

 taining the curd are packed closely together in a large tub and allowed to re- 

 main for 12 hours, when they are again tightened and packed for 18 hours. The 

 curd is ground up coarse, and salt is added, 1 pound to 60 pounds of curd. It is 

 then put into tin hoops 8 inches in diameter and 10 inches deep. The cheeses 

 remain in the hoops for six days, when they are bandaged for 12 days, or until 

 they become firm, and are then placed in the curing room at 65° F. Ripened 

 Stilton cheese of late is often ground up and put into jars holding from 1 to 2£ 

 pounds. 



STRACCHINO. 



This name is applied to several forms of soft cheeses made in Italy, the best 

 known of which is Stracchino di Gorgonzola, described under the name of Gor- 

 gonzola. A square form 6 or 8 inches on a side and 1£ inches thick is known as 

 Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quadro, or Quartirola. This cheese is prepared 

 similarly to Gorgonzola but is allowed to ripen for only about two months. Very 

 little is exported. Stracchino Crescenza is a very soft and highly colored 

 cheese, usually eaten fresh. The form is similar to that of the Quartirola. It 

 is usually marketed in about eight days and can not be kept long. 



