HARDY — ON NOVA SCOTIAN CONIFERS. 129 



still a strong tendency about us to obliterate the evergreen vegetation. 



Such however, happily, is not the exclusive spirit of our age, 

 and I cannot refrain from adducing, as an example, the following 

 letter which appeared recently in the local press, headed " ISTova 

 Scotia Evergreens ": — 



To the Editor of the Sun. 



Sir, — To my fancy, there is not a tree that grows in the woods of Nova 

 Scotia, that looks so graceful and becoming as evergreens near a dwelling 

 house in winter. They refresh the eye, protect the building and small shrub- 

 bery, and give the homestead a snug, social aspect. They also bring up 

 pleasant memories of summer and green fields, and, almost unconsciously to 

 the beholder, promote healthful imagination and a refreshing quiet and repose. 



Those who have tried to beautify their houses with Nova Scotia ever- 

 greens, mostly confess that they have failed in their object. There is not a 

 tree that grows in our forest that is so hard to raise by transplanting as the 

 Black and Red Spruce and the Balsam Fir; and yet, if properly treated, they 

 will grow as freely as any plant of the forest. 



I would say to those who love to see their own native evergreens growing 

 around their dwellings, be not discouraged by any past attempts ; success will 

 be attained if they perform the work according to ray plan and treatment. 



Cultivated soil will not answer for evergreens, unless it is poor, and the 

 subsoil clay or gravel is near the surface. The best soil for black or red 

 .spruce is the common light yellow clay or gravel, free from iron rust, and well 

 mixed with greywacke rock and whinstone. If the clay should be mixed 

 with fragments of iron-stone and blue slate, the White Pine, the Hemlock, 

 and the Balsam Fir should be planted. The limestone sod is more suitable 

 for White Cedar. Peaty or vegetable soil is best for the Larch. 



The last week of April, and the first week of May, is the best time to 

 remove evergreens for transplanting ; then the scdl is very soft, and the young 

 trees easily taken out without fear of bruising their tender roots. Strong 

 young plants can always be found on the outskirts of the woods. The aver- 

 age height of the plants should range from a half to two and a half feet, thick- 

 ly set, with close branches and- free from white moss. The plants should be 

 removed on a dull day ; — put them into bundles of one dozen each, and tie 

 them with a soft string, and if a trench is already prepared, place the trees m 

 just as they are, in bundles, close together, and cover the roots well with the 

 clay ; let them remain there until the tender feeders of the roots grow white. 

 About the 1st of June you can remove the string and transplant them for a 

 hedge or clump around the dwelling house, or elsewhere. They must be well 

 protected from the high winds ; the north-east and easterly winds are more 

 injurious than any other. 



The Balsam Fir or Silver Fir should be planted by themselves. No 

 pruning is required for ten or twelve years, and then sparingly. 



No other class of trees should be planted near the Evergreens, for they 

 always grow more rapid when they are some distance from any other trees. 

 It is labour in vain to transplant Evergreens in the fall of the year. 



Halifax, Nov. 27, 1865. F. McKay. 



Our writer recommends transplanting evergreens in the spring, 



