32 



BULLETIN 540, U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. 



7 



- sSVS-7-+^ 



LESSON 80. 



Problem. — To draft the gown. 



Points to be brought out. — Simplicity of the drafting and the 

 advantage of adapting it to the individual figure. 



Reference. — Any good book givmg direc- 

 tions for drafting underwear. 



Correlation. — Arithmetic: Keep accurate 

 account of the time spent on drafting and 

 making the different parts of the gown. 



LESSON 81. 



Problem. — To sew up the seams and hem 

 the gown. 



Points to be brought out. — Neatness and care- 

 ful machine work are essential for beautiful 

 underwear. In the gown the French seam 

 gives the neatest finish. This should be 

 pinned and basted to insure evenness. After 

 some practice the seaming may be accom- 

 plished without the preliminary basting, but 

 this should not be allowed until a certain de- 

 gree of proficiency has been attained. The 

 hem should be turned and basted, then 

 stitched on the machine on the right side. 



Reference. — Handy and Pract. Farm Libr. 

 [Missouri],Mo.Bul.,13(1915),No.2,pp.64-78. 



LESSON 82. 



Problem. — To make cornstarch pudding. 

 Substitute other forms of starch for the corn- 

 starch and notice carefully any difference in 

 the resulting flavor and consistency. Deter- 

 mine whether or not flour could be used and 

 how much would be necessary to give the 

 desired consistency. 



Points to be brought out. — Cooking at the- 

 temperature of boiling water renders starch 

 palatable, and probably slightly more digest- 

 ible. On this account the pudding is best 

 cooked at least part of the time directly over 



Fig.I. — Kimono nightgown. Meas- 

 urements: Length of front— from 

 highest point of shoulder to floor; 

 length of underarm seam; bust 

 measure, loose. No drafting on 

 paper is necessary. Material— at 

 least a yard wide, and as long as 

 twice length of front plus twice 

 width of hem. Fold in half cross- 

 wise (line AB). Fold in half 

 lengthwise (line AC). Measure 

 down from line AB to bust line 

 (about 8 inches). Draw D F par- 

 allel to AB = one-fourth bust plus 

 2 inches. HE (continuation of 

 DF. FH=2 inches) forms sleeve 

 seam. Bisect distance from sleeve 

 to bottom of material (point G). 

 Draw line from F to G. Cut out 

 triangle and use to piece out bot- 

 tom ( G KL), sewing straight sides 

 together. Measure GL equal to 

 underarm seam. Curve- bottom. 

 Draw neck as desired. Remember 

 that the back of the neck should 

 be 3 inches higher than the front. 



the fire. The cooking may then be finished 

 in the upper part of the double boiler, where stirring is unnecessary. 



References.— U. S. Dept. Agr., Office Expt. Stas. Bui. 202; a good 

 recipe book. 



( 'm relation. — English : Discuss the different sources of starch used 

 as food. 



