frequency band width of 0.0117 Hz). 
37. Wave period T, is defined as the period associated with the 
maximum energy band in the spectrum, which is computed using a 3-point running 
average band on the spectrum. The peak period is reported as the reciprocal 
Ob themcentersirequenciys | Gilmer wall uae 1/frequency) of the spectral band with 
the highest energy. A detailed description of the analysis techniques is 
presented in a report by Andrews (1987) .* 
Results 
38. The wave conditions for the year are shown in Figure 9. For all 
four gages, the distributions of wave height for the current year and all 
years combined are presented in Figures 10 and 11, respectively. Distribu- 
tions of wave period are presented in Figure 12. 
39. Multiple-year comparisons of data for Gage 111 actually incorporate 
data for 1985 and 1986 from Gage 640 (a discontinued Waverider buoy previously 
located at the approximate depth and distance offshore of Gage 111) and data 
for 1987 from Gage 141, located 30 m south of Gage 111. 
4O. Refraction, bottom friction, and wave breaking contribute to the 
observed differences in height and period. During the most severe storms when 
the wave heights exceed 3 m at the seaward end of the pier, the surf zone 
(wave breaking) has been observed to extend past the end of the pier and 
occasionally 1 km offshore. This occurrence is a major reason for the dif- 
ferences in the distributions between Gage 630 and the inshore gages. The 
wave height statistics for the staff gage (Gage 645), located at the landward 
end of the pier, were considerably lower than those for the other gages. In 
all but the calmest conditions, this gage is within the breaker zone. Con- 
sequently, these statistics represent a lower energy wave climate. 
41. Summary wave statistics for the current year and all years combined 
are presented for Gage 630 in Table 3. 
* M. E. Andrews. 1987. "Standard Wave Data Anfresis Procedures for Coastal 
Engineering Applications," unpublished report prepared for the US Army 
Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. 
26 
