€ _ to water at Tumbez. 
aan for a very considerable extent 
frontier of Pen. | Returns are mede: i in 
. bark, hides, and cash 
76 
pensate for the sombre monotony of the 
former. The transparent atmosphere re- 
flects a vivid light on the calm surface of 
the bay, where ships lie as on the bosom 
of an inland lake. The white line of surf, 
breaking heavily on the beach, reminds us 
however of the ocean's power, even when 
in repose, as the movement of a paw might 
indicate the strength of a slumbering lion. 
The appearance of the town is s anything 
thatched roofs, and brown walls form no 
relief to the colour of the soil, with which 
it harmonizes so well that it seems almost 
to have grown out of the cliff by a process 
of nature. There are two principal streets, 
not very wide, and the rest are mere lanes 
and passages. The greater part of the 
houses are mere Indian huts, but those of i 
the principal merchants are commodious 
residences and the new buildings which 
are springing up like a crop of mushrooms, 
are all in a style of superior architecture 
and accommodation. I have seen in no 
part of South America, such marks of 
rapid improvement, as on this barren 
_ Strand, which a few years ago was occupied 
merely by fishermen, and may be said to 
possess neither land nor water: for the 
latter, as I have observed, is brought 
from Colon and Arnotape, and the land 
produces absolutely nothing either for 
pleasure or profit; yet provisions are cheap 
and abundant. The certainty of a sale 
collects them from all the surrounding 
country. One naturally enquires the causes 
of this prosperity. One of them is doubt- 
less its commodious harbour, which is 
resorted to by all the whale ships of the 
Pacific. Here they purchase Onions, Ca- 
metes and fresh meat, before they proceed 
It is also a port of 
mountain country of Loxa and northern 
NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY TO PAYTA, 
ever would but imperfectly account for 
prosperity of Payta, the chief cause is, the 
freedom enjoyed by commerce, we may s 
more from the indifference, than dire 
permission of the government. As long 
the trade was considered of little import- t] 
ance, it was left to be managed as the. 
inhabitants thought fit; this was sufficient 
to give it its present increase, and an easy 
attempts of the government to interfe 
n 
so well systematized, that the import duties | 
diminish much in the same ratio as the $ 
trade increases. 2 
Another circumstance has contributed. 
: it is the abolition, since t 
downfall of the Spanish system, of t 
monopoly enjoyed by the Capital. 
plan of concentration was agreeable to a- 
form of government, the object of whic 
was rather to overlook and restrain, than 
extend the commerce of its colonies ; 
pendence of the country, but have nearly 
annihilated it altogether. I was hospitabl 
received in Payta by Mr. James Tabora, — 
the principal native merchant of the town, 
and had the pleasure of meeting Gener 
Illingret, as well as several Englishme 
and North Americans, settled there 
commercial objects, whose society was th 
more agreeable after the dull monotony of 
my existence in Tumbez. 
ever finds but few resources in a tow 
devoted to commercial pursuits. 
