26 TREATISE ON 



that the stocks usually put out both above & below the grafts. But this cutting should not 

 be severe on very strong stocks; it's preferable to cut only some of the branches & just to 

 twist the others to keep them from taking over until the grafts become vigorous enough to 

 consume all of the sap. 



Nota. 1°. Shoots from which one wishes to lift immediately developing bud grafts 

 should be cut in mid-February or shortly thereafter & the large end planted with a 

 northern exposure, protected from the sun, to a depth of only two inches, because buds 

 that have been in the ground won't succeed as well as the others. Bud grafts whose buds 

 have been unable to develop can be taken from these shoots and grafted in the spring, 

 when the stocks are full of sap, and the buds have enough sap in them for the bark to be 

 detached easily. 



2°. Some make the bud grafts quite large (nine or ten lignes [see translator's note, 

 p. 0053] long, three or four lignes wide); others make them barely two lignes wide & five 

 or six long. The latter are easier to lift, and they are just as sure to be successful as are the 

 larger ones. So the size doesn't matter much. Nevertheless, when bud grafts are made on 

 stocks from which they come off easily, like the apricot tree onto an almond tree, a cherry 

 tree on the small black fruit wild cherry tree, &c, it's an advantage to make the bud graft 

 as large as possible, so that by covering & including a larger surface of the stock, its 

 attachment will be more stable. 



3°. When the graft is made on the current year's wood, & the sap is running well, 

 the edges of the vertical incision can be opened only at the point where it intersects the 

 horizontal one, & only enough to insert the point of the bud shield graft. Moving it 

 downward will be enough to detach the bark. That way the viscous material won't be 

 damaged at all, and the graft won't dislodge the bark any more than is necessary for it to 

 be set; 



