FRUIT TREES. Chap. II. 41 



this layer, or upper level of the roots, normally the most vigorous, sometimes dries out. 

 The tree draws little sustenance from the lower roots, already impaired and weakened by 

 the ones above. Instead of producing too many branches, it deteriorates. 2°. The roots 

 may be a little deeper than they had been in the nursery. If they're too deep, they'll die. 

 The tree, needing to generate more of them at a suitable level for it higher up, will decline 

 for a long time during this phase, & it often succumbs. Most trees that are raised in one 

 place have roots that develop flush with the ground, some of them even above the 

 ground. This shows that it's preferable to plant them a bit higher, except for earthing them 

 up during the first years. Keep in mind, however, that in loose soil they should be planted 

 farther down than in firm soil, especially if it's not very deep. 



Article hi. On Distances between Trees. 



The distances apart that trees should be planted depend on the properties of the 

 soil, the species of trees, their size, & the strength that they need to attain. 1°. Pear, apple, 

 and cherry trees in an orchard with average soil will be sufficiently separated if they are 

 eighteen feet apart. Plum and apricot trees &c. can be a little bit closer. So an arpent of 

 nine hundred square fathoms will hold about a hundred trees. But if the ground is of good 

 quality & one wishes to cultivate it as well as to use it for something else, then leave 

 twenty-four feet between each tree. 2°. On an espalier with good soil where there are 

 eight feet or less of wall below the coping, only dwarfs of peach, apricot, and pear trees 

 on their own stocks can be planted, from fifteen to eighteen feet apart. Pear trees on 

 quince stocks 



