FRUIT TREES. Chap. III. 59 



Holes are made in the wall with a cold chisel or with the point of a hammer. The hooks 

 are fastened into them with plaster & small tile shards, or with mortar of lime & sand, as 

 long as there's enough time for it to dry out well. The other type of hook is no longer than 

 four to five inches, round or square, shaped like a large tenterhook, and pointed on the 

 end that is inserted into the wall. Large pegs of oak or other durable wood are forced 

 between the stones, & the hooks are driven in at those points. While attaching the hooks 

 or driving them in, a piece of wood a little thicker than the trellis laths is placed between 

 their curved part & the wall to ensure that the laths that are to rest on the hooks will go on 

 them easily. 



Supporting a trellis requires several rows of hooks parallel to the coping. Three 

 rows are sufficient on a wall of six to nine feet below the coping; four rows are needed on 

 a wall often to twelve feet. The hooks in the same row are placed three feet apart. The 

 space between the rows varies according to the height of the wall. The first row of hooks 

 is placed under the next-to-the-top lattice squares, the last row underneath the last or 

 next-to-last lattice squares from the bottom. The other row or rows should be spaced 

 equally between the top & bottom rows. 



Suppose that one wants the lattice spaces of the trellis to be nine by eight inches, 

 including the widths of the laths, i.e. that the horizontal laths are spaced at nine inch 

 intervals & the vertical ones every eight-inches - a suitable proportion for the stability of 

 the trellis & for training the trees properly. A vertical line is drawn from the top of the 

 wall to the base with a plumb-line or by other means. Eleven inches below the coping, 

 a point is marked on the line where the first row of hooks 



