FRUIT TREES. Chap. IV. 87 



But sometimes that strengthens the roots, & consequently the branches, even more. In a 

 short time the tree takes on a height & breadth detrimental to its base & to its center. 

 Instead of being low & well filled out, it grows tall & sparse. So this practice is 

 appropriate only for trees that readily put out branches from old wood and that tolerate 

 hard pruning of branches that still are too long after they've been reduced. If a strong 

 branch emerges at the top of the tree, prune it long, cultivate it, & shape a top on it as 

 though it were a second level. It's removed when the lower level, actually the real tree, 

 has settled down & set fruit (it's pruning continues & it's treated according to the rules). 

 This is the safest method. 



M. de la Quintinye suggests disregarding branches cut to a stub, shoots two inches 

 long, or a few big branches, even false wood ones, if they're in places where they won't 

 spoil the shape of the tree, won't cause crowding, & are where they can be removed when 

 the ones from which they originated will have set fruit. This is the same method as the 

 preceding one; but it's hard to find places for these branches on the side without their 

 creating clutter while they're there or gaps when they're cut off. 



Nota. 3°. Prune only next to a healthy bud. Cut close to it so that no stub remains 

 behind. Cut it cleanly & obliquely so that it recovers sooner. Prune next to a bud situated 

 on the side of & not at the front or the rear of the branch, so that the one that emerges 

 from it will be properly oriented. Keep the hand that supports the branch below the cut, to 

 prevent the pruning knife from turning around, &c. Common sense & a little experience 

 are enough to learn these small details. 



The villagers of Montreuil, famous for cultivating fruit trees, especially peach 

 trees, retain 



