1 86 



Garden and Forest. 



[Number 428. 



recorded ninety degrees in the shade on one occasion and on 

 several days reached eighty or eighty-five degrees. Such 

 forcing weather brought things forward with a rush, and 

 although Peas, Onions and similar crops were sown from ten 

 days to a fortnight laterthan in 1895, they are at this time more 

 forward than they were a year ago. Now we are having a cold 

 dry spell, with frost almost nightly, and vegetation is making 

 slow progress. A more perfect season for seed-sowing could 

 not be desired. There have been but two showers so far 

 during this month. With warmer nights and more moisture 

 crops will make rapid growth. The tropical weather in the 

 middle of the month tempted many to plant large patches of 

 Sweet Corn and Beans in this locality. Each year some of 

 these crops are sown at this time, and they are always cut to 

 the ground by frost by the middle of May. Last year there was 

 a killing frost on May 17th, when all tender crops were de- 

 stroyed. In this part of New England it is not really safe to 

 plant out such vegetables, as Tomatoes, Peppers and Egg- 

 plants, before May 20th. We prefer to have good stocky 

 plants in cold frames until that date, and there we feel they are 

 safe, whereas by planting out a week earlier there is uncer- 

 tainty about their safety whenever the night turns chilly and 

 the weather-vane points north or north-east. 



Our early sowings of Peas have recently been earthed up a 

 little and pea-brush placed among them ; the ground will re- 

 quire frequent stirring with the hoe or cultivator to loosen the 

 surface and keep down weeds. An iron rake drawn over the 

 ground between rows of seeds when they first appear will stir 

 the ground nicely and destroy multitudes of almost invisible 

 weeds. Occasional sowings of such kinds as Stratagem, 

 Heroine, Champion of England and Shropshire Hero have 

 recently been made, the seed of these being covered more 

 deeply'than at our earliest sowing. Peas do much better sown 

 while the ground is comparatively cool, as they naturally prefer 

 a cool and moist climate. Later batches sown after hot dry 

 weather sets in never give such good returns as those planted 

 earlier. For sowings made after this time we choose our 

 moistest ground, and it is helpful to mulch between the rows 

 with grass or meadow hay. Mulching serves a twofold pur- 

 pose in keeping the ground moist and cool. Where seaweed 

 is obtainable it is one of the best things to use for this pur- 

 pose, and it is also excellent for protecting Celery kept in 

 trenches during the winter. A friend sent us on April 15th 

 some fine heads of Boston Market Celery grown on Cape Cod 

 and preserved in this way. 



We find it risky to sow any Sweet Corn or String Beans be- 

 fore May 10th. Sowings made much earlier have come 

 through all right, but the later-sown ones give better returns. 

 Our earliest batch of String Beans in frames is now showing 

 flower. A later sowing made in sashes from which Violets 

 were taken are in second leaf. The sashes are thrown off 

 these during the daytime, but it will be necessary to cover 

 them at night for some time. Our earliest batch of forcing 

 Erfurt Cauliflower is now giving some nice heads for cutting. 

 These and, indeed, all vegetables in frames require plenty of 

 water and stimulants. The ground will require occasional 

 stirring among Lettuce, Carrot, Beet and other crops in frames, 

 and weeds must be allowed no foothold. Artificial pollination 

 will make early Cucumber set better and swell faster. We 

 make our first sowing of these and of Melons in the open about 

 May 6th, scooping out a hollow space for the seeds, which we 

 cover with a sixteen by twenty-four sheet of glass. This is 

 kept on until the plants are well established, ventilation and 

 water being afforded as required. To those who do not pos- 

 sess hand sashes or other protecting appliances this will be 

 found a cheap and useful method, and the plants do decidedly 

 better than it started in pots or turf in heat and then trans- 

 planted. 



Onions raised in boxes have recently been planted out in 

 rows eighteen inches apart, allowing six to eight inches be- 

 tween the plants, according to the variety. Onions do so much 

 better pricked out that we purpose relying on this method 

 exclusively in future. Not one-fourth of the seed necessary to 

 sow the rows is required, and, although a little time is needed 

 to set out the plants, it is more than counterbalanced by that 

 saved in thinning and weeding those treated in the regulation 

 way. Some persons object to large-sized onions, and where 

 this is the case it is best to stick to the old method. Onions 

 like the ground pretty well primed, but on no account should 

 it be allowed to become baked. The hoe must be kept con- 

 stantly used in the cultivation of these and all other vegetable 

 crops at this season, before weeds make any headway. 



Our first batch of Celery was pricked off into boxes some 

 time ago, and is now ready to transfer to a frame, from whence 

 it will be planted in the open about the end of May. We have 



recently made a sowing of Boston Market, Giant Pascal and 

 Kalamazoo for a winter crop. The ground now occupied by 

 early Peas will be utilized for this Celery later in the season. A 

 sowing of Golden Self-blanching Celery made now will give 

 some fine heads in the fall. This variety rusts very badly 

 during hot weather if not kept well watered. Sown now it will 

 give good solid heads until Christmas. This is a suitable time 

 to make sowings of Sweet and Pot Herbs, Brussels Sprouts, 

 Savoy and Drumhead Cabbage, Leeks and Okra. Martynia we 

 sow about the end of May. Successional sowings of Beet, Let- 

 tuce, Radish and Turnip may be made, and if Parsley has been 

 forgotten in the spring rush, a row of it may be sown now. 



Tomatoes for the earliest outdoor crop have just been shifted 

 into six inch pots, and fruit will be set on these before they are 

 planted outside, insuring an early crop. The plants for the 

 main crop are now in boxes in a frame. It is better to thin or 

 pot off the plants if they get crowded and are in danger of be- 

 coming spindling. Short stiff plants are best. A long lanky 

 plant which needs a stake to support it before it is many inches 

 high cannot be expected to give satisfactory returns. Plants 

 now fruiting indoors require at this season an abundance of 

 water, and we give liquid stimulants three times a week, in 

 addition to scattering a handful of sheep-manure on the top of 

 each pot once a week. The plants require looking over at 

 least once in ten days, when superfluous growths, decaying 

 foliage and necessary tying can be attended to. Our latest 

 batch indoors has recently been placed in fruiting-pots, and 

 fruit is just commencing to set on these. These plants, with 

 others still bearing heavy crops, will furnish us with plenty of 

 tomatoes until the middle of July, after which an outdoor 

 supply can be relied upon until the middle of October. 



Taunton, Mass. W. N. Craig. 



Seasonable Work. 



THE removal of many bedding plants to outdoor frames at 

 this season relieves the overcrowded condition of the 

 greenhouse, and affords the opportunity to harden off the 

 plants before placing them in the open ground. The various 

 cool-house plants grown for this purpose, for example, Gera- 

 niums, Verbenas, Ageratums, Alyssum, Sedums, Phlox Drum- 

 mondii and many others of like hardiness, will be in better 

 condition if placed out in a frame before this time, and from 

 May 1st more tender plants may also be put in similar quar- 

 ters. These will naturally require more care in ventilation for 

 the first few days, so that they may not receive any check. 



This partial clearance of the greenhouse will make it possi- 

 ble to shift on and spread various summer-blooming plants 

 required for the conservatory next season. Among plants 

 deserving special attention in this particular none are more 

 prominent than the tuberous Begonias and Gloxinias, for while 

 tuberous Begonias are valuable as bedding plants in some 

 favored sections in this country, in the main they are more 

 satisfactory for indoor decoration. Considerable space and 

 light are needed for their full development, although some 

 protection from full sunlight is also necessary when they are 

 grown under glass. The young plants should be potted on 

 before they become badly starved, for once stunted they sel- 

 dom fully recover. The large-flowered garden varieties of the 

 tuberous Begonias are not the only ones of value to the private 

 grower, and well-grown specimens of Begonia Boliviensis, 

 B. Chelsonii, B. Weltoniensis and B. Froebelii add much to 

 the beauty and interest of a collection. The latter species is 

 particularly striking, with its boid foliage and strong spikes of 

 brilliant red flowers. Most of the Gloxinias should now be 

 ready for their final shift to the pots in which they are to 

 bloom, six-inch pots being generally large enough for this 

 purpose. About the time these plants show bloom they will 

 be benefited by an occasional watering with weak liquid- 

 manure. Gesneraceous plants in general are shade lovers, 

 and Gloxinias are no exception to the rule. In watering, the 

 foliage should not be wet to any great extent, or the leaves 

 become rusty. 



Various relatives of the Gloxinias also demand attention at 

 this season, among others Achimenes and Tydaea, both genera 

 including many beautiful forms well adapted for conser- 

 vatory decoration during the summer months. Large baskets 

 filled with Achimenes would be a revelation of beauty to those 

 not familiar with them, and they are not really difficult to cul- 

 tivate. Thrifty young plants should be used for this purpose, 

 and should be planted all around a wire basket of large mesh, 

 the basket being lined with moss to retain the soil. Thorough 

 watering is required by the Achimenes while in growth, and 

 the basket should be hung in a partially shaded location and 

 not exposed to strong draughts. 



