386 



Garden and Forest. 



[Number 44S. 



southern Arkansas, where it is sometimes forty feet high, 

 with a trunk two feet in diameter. It is usually a smaller, 

 closely branched, spreading tree with smooth, close, gray 

 bark and a stem that is fluted and furrowed in a picturesque 

 way. The leaves are dark bluish green in summer, and 

 turn to orange and scarlet late in autumn. Altogether, this 

 Hornbeam, with its airy and graceful crown, is one of the 

 best of the trees of its size for use in our parks and gardens. 

 Like many American trees, it has been neglected by plant- 

 ers, and the European Hornbeam, Carpinus Betula, was 

 more commonly planted twenty-five years ago, but our 

 native tree is now obtainable in any good nursery. An 

 Asiatic variety, C. Duinensis, has been occasionally grown 

 here, and some distinct and beautiful species in Japan, 

 notably C. cordata, have been figured in this journal (see 

 vol. viii., p. 295, and vol. vi., p. 365). 



Cultural Department. 

 Shrubs with Ornamental Fruit. 



I NEVER saw the shrubs which are valuable for their orna- 

 mental fruit more beautiful here than they are this season. 

 The bush Honeysuckles all summer long have been excep- 

 tionally pleasing, and hundreds of people who drive by them 

 stop to express their admiration. Among the best were Loni- 

 cera orientalis, with black and blue fruit ; L. chrysantha, from 

 the mountains of Pekin, with fruit as red as coral ; L. Mor- 

 rowi, with deep purplish crimson fruit ; L. Bella rosea, with 

 fruit cherry-red, and the different varieties of L. Tatarica, with 

 fruit violet, yellow and other shades of color that it will be 

 hard to describe. 



Of the Viburnums the first to ripen fruit was V. Lantana 

 and its variety macrophylla, with berries at first green, then 

 turning into a light rosy pink, and through cherry-red to a true 

 black when fully ripe. The plant has an ever-varying charm 

 which gives it singular value from its flowering season until 

 the end. V. acerifolium is also now conspicuous with its pur- 

 plish fruit ; V. Opulus, with its brilliant orange and scarlet 

 fruit according to its age ; V. dilatatum, from Japan, with large 

 corymbs of dark red fruit, which later becomes scarlet ; V. 

 dentatum, with blue fruit ; V. molle, with much larger fruit 

 and also bright blue, and V. Lentago, with fruit blue-black. 



Of the Cotoneasters, C. latiflora has brilliant scarlet fruit ; 

 that of C. vulgaris is nearly black, while C. acuminata has deep 

 purple fruit. The white-fruited varieties of Symphoricarpus 

 are now in their prime, and 1 think the species called S. mollis 

 much finer than S. racemosa. The berries are clear white, 

 but more abundant and larger, while the plant is more grace- 

 ful in its habit. The Spice-bush is now a striking shrub with 

 its scarlet fruit and its leaves changing to yellow. The variety 

 obovatus of Evonymus Americanus was never as handsome as 

 it is this year. It is a low shrub, planted here on a bank which 

 is somewhat shaded, and being of a trailing habit it has cov- 

 ered the ground, and it now bears much scarlet and orange 

 fruit, which makes a very pretty combination (see p. 385). 



The Cornuses are all fruiting well. C. candidissima was 

 especially beautiful with its scattering bunches of pure white 

 fruit ; C. mascula is just dropping its brilliant cherry-red fruit ; 

 C. sericea is covered with its fruits, now blue, then white, 

 while C. stolonifera and C. Baileyi have clustered fruits of 

 pearly white. Of the climbing Honeysuckles, Lonicera Sulli- 

 vantii and L. hirsuta are the finest, the fruit of the latter being 

 purplish red, while the former is a brilliant scarlet. Ilex 

 laevigata ripens its fruit early, which is of a brilliant scarlet, 

 showing particularly well among the shining leaves. This, 

 certainly, is a plant which should be more frequently cultivated 

 in parks or gardens, as it is beautiful at all seasons. 



Arnold Arboretum. Jackson DtZWSOll. 



Seasonable Work. 



THE housing of tender plants now demands attention, for a 

 severe chill is almost as injurious to plants of this charac- 

 ter as actual exposure to frost. Among the first to suffer are 

 plants of Poinsettia pulcherrtma that have flourished outdoors 

 during the summer, their growth being stunted and lower 

 leaves likely to dropoff if once chilled. While this injury may 

 not entirely prevent the formation of their brilliant bracts, it 

 will do much toward ruining their usefulness for conservatory 

 decoration. Cyclamens also are affected by chilly nights when 

 growing in cold frames, and are much more under control in 



a light greenhouse in which a temperature of fifty-five degrees 

 can be maintained. Aphides are likely to be troublesome on 

 Cyclamens at this time, unless the precaution is taken tospread 

 chopped tobacco-stems among the pots. This method dis- 

 poses of these pests quite as effectually as smoking, and with 

 less risk of injury to the foliage or flower-buds. 



Bouvardias, Stevias and Eupatoriums should also be indoors 

 by this time. Nothing is gained by keeping them out later, 

 and their flowers will soon be needed to keep up a regular 

 supply, Begonias that have been grown outside in readiness 

 for winter flowering in the greenhouse should also be brought 

 under cover soon after September 1st. These are, almost 

 without exception, heat-loving plants, and are liable to lose 

 some of their roots from a chill. If one is limited in the 

 choice of Begonias, three of the most useful species are B. 

 incarnata, B. Saundersii and B. corallina, all of which are easy 

 to manage and extremely free in flowering. 



The main crop of Carnations in many establishments has, 

 doubtless, been housed before this time, but there is usually 

 some surplus stock after the first selection has been made, 

 and if space can be spared for these in a protected frame, they 

 can be held in reserve until later in the season, when, as pot 

 plants, they will prove useful in filling up spaces formerly 

 occupied by Chrysanthemums. 



Crotons that have been bedded out (and it may here be noted 

 that their use in this capacity in the vicinity of Philadelphia 

 has again proved highly satisfactory) should soon be lifted, 

 and may be repotted into as small pots as their abundant roots 

 will permit. After becoming established in the greenhouse, 

 they will provide a crop of highly colored cuttings that will 

 make first-rate stock for the following spring. 



The various bulbs for winter and spring forcing are arriv- 

 ing now, and these bulbs should be got under ground as soon 

 as possible after they are received, for many of them suffer 

 considerably from over-exposure to the air and light. The 

 earliest, Lilium Harrisii, have probably been potted more than 

 a month, and should now be well-rooted and showing their 

 growths above the soil. For Easter decoration I prefer Lilium 

 longiflorum, but this variety does not like hard forcing, and, 

 therefore, L. Harrisii is preferable for early work. If the Lilies 

 are not required to bloom before spring they can be kept in a 

 cold frame having plenty of ventilation, until October 1st at 

 least, and a stouter and stocky growth is thus secured. 



A special point to be borne in mind in the treatment of all 

 plants that have recently been brought in from outdoors, is 

 that they still need plenty of fresh air, and, therefore, more or 

 less ventilation should be given during the night as well as 

 the day, in order to avoid a soft and spindling growth. 



Holmesburg, Pa. I V. H. Taplin. 



Chrysanthemums. 



/CHRYSANTHEMUMS for specimen plants are now in 

 ^ shape, and the earliest varieties will soon show their 

 flower-buds. Some additional tying will be necessary now. 

 All stray shoots should be pulled into place, so that nearly a 

 globular shape is secured. It is not an easy matter to do this 

 work when the shoots begin to ripen and buds appear, for the 

 reasons that they are less pliable and there is danger of injury 

 to the tips of the shoots. No matter how careful one may be, 

 some of the soft tips are sure to be broken when there is not 

 sufficient time to replace them. A few finishing touches will 

 be necessary a week or so before the exhibitions, but as little 

 as possible should be left until then. 



Plants in the open ground should be taken up at once. Cul- 

 tivation in the open implies more or less naturally grown 

 plants. It will be impossible to get such plants into shape for 

 exhibition purposes, and no matter how carefully the work is 

 done they will lack the trim appearance of continuously 

 trained specimens. But naturally grown plants have a charm 

 all their own. Severely trained specimens impress many per- 

 sons in the same way as pattern flower-beds. They are too 

 "artistic" or artificial. Unfortunately, untrained specimens, 

 however natural they may look, are usually poorly grown. As 

 much skill is required to grow natural plants as trained ones. 

 They need watching during the whole season. Superfluous 

 growth must be thinned out and light and air let in to the 

 centre of the plant to avoid a skeleton-like appearance, the 

 result of crowded growth smothering the life out of the lower 

 foliage. Attention to the details just noted will secure short, 

 healthy growth and plenty of good foliage down to the ground. 

 Before potting plants from the open ground a piece of string 

 should be put about them, to hold the branches together until 

 the work is done. It is better to stake them into shape at once, 

 so that when they recover they will do so in good order. If 



