February 15, 1893.] 



Garden and Forest. 



79 



The accompanying illustration is from a photograph of a 

 turnip, natural size. The lower portion of tiie original root 

 had rotted off, warts had formed, and new roots were sent out 

 to get nourishment for the starving plant. Precautionary 

 measures are the only effective ones, for when the fungus has 

 got a hold there seems to be no help. The germs, as the tissue 

 of the host decays, are set free in the soil. How long they may 

 survive there without the appropriate feeding plants is not 

 known. It is certain, however, that Cabbage planted to suc- 

 ceed a badly infested crop, is attacked by an increased develop- 

 ment of the fungus. Turnips should not be grown after an 

 infested crop, as they will share the same fate. Radishes will 

 also take the club-root under these conditions. It is possible 

 that this fungus lives upon the roots of weeds of the same 



-«*. 



Fig. 14.— Club-root Fungus (Plasmodiophora Brassicae). — See page 78. 



family as the three crops named. These include the Shep- 

 herd's-purse, all kinds of Mustards, Pepper-grasses and the like. 

 If the trouble begins in the hot-bed, all club-rooted plants 

 should be discarded at setting-time. New soil should be used 

 for seed-growing the next year. The rubbish left after a crop 

 of cabbage or turnips is harvested should be burned. 

 Rutgers College. ByroH D. Halsted: 



Water-lilies from Seed. 



'T'O raise flowering plants of any kind from seed requires 

 -'- patience and enthusiasm, but it is always a fascinating and 

 interesting pursuit. Though the general characteristics of 

 plants raised from seed are similar, they vary greatly in vigor, 

 size of leaves and in the color and markings of the leaves and 

 flowers. Raising Water-lilies from seed is quite a new idea 

 with general flower-growers. Those familiar with our native 

 Water-lily know that it is readily propagated by the root, which 

 is perennial; but there are exotic Water-lilies which differ, 

 notonly in the color of the flowers, but also in their leavesand 

 roots. Most of these do not have fleshy or rhizomatous roots, 

 like our native Nymphaea odorata, but reproduce themselves 

 by seed. Of course, a Lily from the tropics will not succeed 

 under exactly the same conditions as our northern varieties. 

 The tropical kinds, with their gorgeous coloring, are now 

 indispensable, and all. of these produce a tuberous root and 

 flower from a crown. Some of these tubers are very difficult 



to winter over. On the other hand, they produce seed very 

 freely and can be treated as annuals, but seedlings must be 

 started early in the season if good flowers are to be had in 

 plenty. It takes from three to four months to raise plants fit 

 to set out at the beginning to the middle of June, but where 

 temperature above seventy degrees cannot be secured a still 

 longer time will be required. Seed may also be sown in fall, 

 and young seedlings successfully carried through the winter 

 season in a lower temperature than that necessary for germi- 

 nating seed at this season. 



Seeds of Water-lilies differ but little from other flower-seeds, 

 and the same method must be observed in having suitable 

 pots or pans for sowing the seed ; a four-inch pot will hold a 

 good number of seedlings of any one variety. Finely sifted soil, 

 not too rich or light, should be used, the pots compactly filled 

 to within an inch of the rim and leveled off so as to leave a 

 smooth surface. The seed should be scattered evenly and 

 covered with clean sand. After sowing, stand the pots in a 

 vessel of water at a temperature of seventy degrees. A shal- 

 low tub will be found very useful for this purpose. Do not 

 cover the soil in the pot with water for a few hours, as the dry 

 seeds would rise to the surface, and if there is more than one 

 variety would easily get mixed, if not lost. After the pots have 

 thus soaked for about two days they should be covered with 

 water to the depth of an inch. Should they be lower than this 

 from the rim of the tub they may be raised with blocks to the 

 proper height. The tub must be full of water so that any scum 

 can be taken off without disturbing the pots or plants. At first 

 appearance the seedlings look more like blades of grass of a 

 brownish color, but very soon the small green leaves are seen. 

 As soon as the second or third leaf appears the seedlings 

 should be singled out and the strongest pricked into pots. 

 When they attain strength and size they should be potted 

 singly in three-and-a-half-inch pots. When pricking off the seed- 

 lings the young plants can more readily be taken hold of under 

 water. As the plants advance in size they will require deeper 

 water. The soil for plants in three-and-a-half-inch pots and 

 larger may be used in a rougher state than for seed-pots. Good 

 maiden loam, with thoroughly rotted manure, or soil that is 

 good for Roses, with an addition of about one-third more 

 manure, will answer for the purpose. Cover the tops of all 

 seed pans and pots of various sizes with clean sand when 

 fresh potted, to keep the surface clean and the soil from ris- 

 ing. When plants in three-and-a-half-inch pots require re- 

 potting they may be potted into five or six inch pots or planted 

 three in a tub. But if strong plants are desired they should be 

 set singly in six-inch pots, and after that planted into tubs for 

 summer blooming, using the same kind of soil in a rough 

 state, but thoroughly mixed. If kerosene barrels or other large- 

 sized casks are sawed into tubs for use there should not be 

 more than two or two and a half inches of wood left above the 

 top hoop, or the staves will open and the tubs will not keep full of 

 water ; besides, they will be found too heavy to move, if that 

 should be necessary. 



Dongan Hills, N. Y. yvm. Tricker. 



Decorative Species of Asparagus. 



UNDER this heading are included some of the most elegant 

 of decorative plants, their slender branches reminding 

 one of Fern-fronds, which they surpass in their longer 

 endurance when cut. For conservatory decoration, and 

 even in the window-garden, some species of Asparagus 

 are excellent; a very high temperature is not necessary, 

 and no special culture is needed to insure a satisfactory 

 growth. Good loam, preferably of a light character, is the 

 best soil for these plants, and proper attention should be paid 

 to the drainage of the pots ; for while an ample supply of water 

 is needed at all times for Asparagus, stagnant moisture will 

 soon cause the roots to decay. 



Propagation of some of the species can readily be effected 

 by means of cuttings, but with others there is much difficulty 

 in inducing the cuttings to root, and consequently either di- 

 vision of the roots or seeds must be depended on. Among the 

 specially desirable species is A. plumosus and its variety 

 nanus, the type being a stronger grower and more scandent in 

 habit than tiie variety, growths fifteen to eighteen feet in 

 length not being uncommon on strong, well-established plants. 

 A. plumosus nanus is better suited for pot-culture than the 

 type, its growths being more slender ; in habit it is tufled, and 

 the color of the foliage is dark green. The Fern-like branch- 

 lets of these plants are almost invaluable for mingling with 

 cut flowers, and may be used repeatedly with fresh flowers, 

 the Asparagus keeping in good condition for two or three 

 weeks in water. 



