388 



Garden and Forest. 



[Number 290. 



the stove a special border has been prepared for Crinums. 

 The hot-water pipes inside are close to the wall, so that a con- 

 siderable amount of heat must pass through to theCrinumson 

 the outside. In this border the following species are planted, 

 all of which have survived one or more winters, and many of 

 them flower annually : C. Americanum, southern United 

 States ; C. amabile, Sumatra ; C. Careyanum, Mauritius ; C. 

 latifolium, tropical Asia; C. lineare, Cape; C. Moorei, Natal; 

 C. pratense, India ; C. pedunculatum, Australia ; C. Yemense, 

 C. variabile, Cape ; also the following supposed hybrids : C. 

 Melazzi, C. Meldense and C. grandiflorum Silberi. The first 

 species to flower each year is C. amabile, some of the scapes 

 having fifteen flowers. The last to flower is C. Moorei. C. 

 latifolium had a scape five feet high, and leaves eight feet long 

 and seven inches broad. 



Chrysanthemums. 



THE interest in Chrysanthemums increases as the season 

 advances, and the progress and development of the buds 

 is a study in itself. It is only by noting the condition and de- 

 velopment of the buds of new varieties that we can tell their 

 value, and how to treat them the next season. In old varieties 

 we decide at this time what buds to take and what to discard. 

 The crown-bud, so called because it terminates the growth at 

 a certain stage, differs from all other flower-buds from the fact 

 that it is never subtended by other flower-buds. This latter 

 condition always occurs in " terminals," so designated because, 

 terminating the growth, no more buds develop. The crown- 

 bud is an abortion at best, and would seldom develop if left to 

 itself. It only does so when three or more buds, which develop 

 below it (ultimately becoming terminals), are rem:)ved. This 

 is the process of "taking" the crown-bud. Taking termi- 

 nals merely consists in removing side flower-buds and leav- 

 ing one only. 



Some varieties show a crown-bud early in May. This is the 

 case with W. H. Lincoln. All such buds should be discarded. 

 The August crown-bud is the best to take in certain varieties 

 required for exhibition, and of which we know the time re- 

 quired to develop the buds properly. This is really the only 

 crown-bud to produce a good exhibition flower in some varie- 

 ties, notably E. Molyneux. It is not probable, however, that 

 the process of timing and taking the bud will ever become 

 popular on this side of the Atlantic. It is too slow and requires 

 much calculation ; besides, one is always sure of flowers on 

 terminals. Unless we know how and when to properly take 

 a crown, a terminal is the best bud, and for commercial 

 purposes it is certainly the best. A rule among the commer- 

 cial class of growers, where any attention is paid to the matter, 

 is to take crown-buds on weak varieties and terminal buds on 

 stronger-growing varieties. I generally take a few of each, 

 especially in the case of new varieties, and recommend those 

 who can take time enough to study and follow the matter out 

 in all its practical bearings, to follow this plan, noting whether 

 the buds were taken early or late and the results. 



What we aim at in specimen plants is to develop as many 

 growing shoots as possible before the middle of August, regu- 

 lating them so as to keep the plant well balanced, and tie them 

 out into a shapely specimen by blooming-time. Too often 

 plants are allowed to grow naturally, no attention being paid 

 to outline until a few weeks before exhibition-time. It is im- 

 possible then to get the neat specimens. Generally, all the 

 shoots on a specimen plant are terminals, and bear a number 

 of flower-buds in clusters at the tips. I prefer to leave only 

 one bud, and this treatment is repaid by extra-large flowers. 

 It is difficult, however, to persuade people to leave but one 

 bud. I have noticed the tendency in a few varieties, notably 

 M. J. Delaux, G. Daniels and Amber Gem, to show all crown- 

 buds at taking-time. As this occurs well into September, I 

 always take them ; if these were removed terminals would 

 come, but it is questionable whether, so late in the season, 

 these would be as good. I would advise that all crown-buds 

 appearing on specimen plants in September be taken. 



Feeding should continue until all disbudding is done. One 

 good guide as to whether the material used is beneficial, be- 

 sides noting its visible effects, is to observe whether new roots 

 run over the surface of the soil. The absence of these, taken 

 in connection with a yellowish shade on the leaves, is a sure 

 indication that the plants are out of health, and instead of in- 

 creasing the dose of manure on these plants they should be 

 passed by. If there is room, a light top-dressing of pure loam 

 would benefit them, and I recommend this treatment generally 

 for all that are not doing as well as they should. Too much . 

 water and poor drainage are generally chargeable with an un- 



healthy condition. It is better in such cases to withhold water, 

 giving only enough to keep the plants alive, until signs of re- 

 turning color appear. I have tried this plan with good results. 

 Plants should be moved in early in September and a little fire- 

 heat used — just enough to keep out mildew. ., 



Wellesley, Mass. 1 . D- H. 



Seasonable Vegetable Notes. 



CELERY will need a little finely pulverized earth laid up to it 

 every week or so from this time. We never earth it up 

 much at a time, but bank up a little and often. Before bank- 

 ing all decayed leaves should be removed, and with them a 

 few of the lower hard leaves. If two or three persons can be 

 set to work, one should draw in the leaves as closely as possi- 

 ble, while the others pack the soil firmly about the plants. If 

 one alone must do the work, the plants should be tied up 

 ahead. We generally do our last earthing about the first week 

 in October, and expect to store the celery by the ist of No- 

 vember. 



Onions, excepting the late sown, will now have made their 

 season's growth, and should be drawn and put in a sunny place 

 to dry. It is customary where large quantities are grown to 

 windrow them on the beds ; but, as we grow only a few for 

 home use, we lay them on old boards or shutters, and cover 

 them during bad weather. Carefully dried onions keep better. 



Every year we sun-dry a quantity of Lima beans. It is a slow 

 process, but fully worth the trouble. These beans, steeped for 

 a few hours before cooking, come out for table use as fresh as 

 in summer-time. We find Henderson's Bush Lima an excel- 

 lent kind to grow for this purpose. It is early, and gives us a 

 picking or two before the pole varieties come in, and after that 

 we use them for drying. Our Strawberries are already planted, 

 and the last sowing of Prickly Spinach will now be made for 

 spring use, to be wintered over covered with litter. The time 

 for sowing Lettuce in frames has now arrived. Tomatoes 

 planted late in frames have outgrown their limits, and are be- 

 ing pruned of all but fruit-bearing growth. Frost is liable to 

 strike us at any time during September, and squashes should 

 be gathered, so that they may be covered when there is danger 

 of frost, as also peppers and green tomatoes. 



Watertovvn, Maine. W. D. 



Begonias. — I agree with Mr. Gerard, that tuberous Begonias 

 in the sun are a failure. Under certain conditions they do very 

 well, but to the lover of a trim bed they are not a success. 

 Lately I saw a bed around the trunk of a Beech-tree, well, but 

 not densely, shaded, since the lowest branches were consid- 

 erably above the bed. With a good mulching, and plenty of 

 moisture, a majority of the plants had done well. These plants 

 flourish on the shady side of a hedge, but they seldom succeed 

 along the walls of a dwelling. As your correspondent sug- 

 gested, there are many other Begonias which answer this pur- 

 pose better. I have in mind a very effective bed at the north- 

 ern end of a conservatory belonging to Mr. Simpson, of Sax- 

 onville, Massachusetts, in which Begonias were an important 

 feature. With these there were growing several Ferns, Adi- 

 antums, Nephrolepis and Onychiums and some Dracaenas, 

 Aspidistras and small Palms, altogether making a picturesque 

 effect. The Begonias most available are Bismarck, Semper- 

 florens in variety, Insignis, Guttata, Diademata, Rubella, Ricini- 

 folia and Verschaffeltia. 



Hartford, Conn. -ff. Dale. 



Correspondence. 



Treatment for a Decaying Ash-tree. 

 To the Editor of Garden and Forest : 



Sir, — An Ash-tree here, eight feet in circumference at the 

 base, growing through a gravel walk and showing no signs of 

 decay in branches or foliage, is unexpectedly found to be en- 

 tirely hollow some three feet below, and for about the same 

 distance above, the ground, the 'cavity being partially filled 

 with rotten wood and innumerable yellow ants. The sap-wood 

 seems fairly sound, except for a honeycombed appearance. 

 The hole in the tree is where a large root has decayed and 

 worked upward on the trunk, making a cavity about eighteen 

 inches square. It is impossible to remove the dead wood and 

 the live ants by hand, and it is also impossible to treat the in- 

 side properly if this should be done. The holes in the wood 

 indicate borers, followed by tree-ants. Can tree-ants be de- 

 stroyed by smoking, and can sulphur be used with safety ? 

 Would the heat of burning kerosene injure the tree ? Should 

 the hole in the ground below the tree be filled, and with what ? 

 Should an attempt be made to exclude dampness and air from 



