1 68 



Garden and Forest. 



[April 2, 1890, 



Some Hardy Trees and Shrubs. 



I HAVE just read the notes of Mr. Jack, under the heading 

 of "Exotic Shrubs in Canada," and wish to say that the 

 shrubs found hardy near Montreal are equally hardy in our 

 dry interior climate. The Yellow-wood (Cladraslis httea) we 

 are surprised to find a true iron-clad during our recent trying 

 seasons. This is remarkable, as we have found no other tree 

 or shrub from the south truly hardy here, and even the forest- 

 trees and shrubs of the New England States fail to endure our 

 hot, dry summers and cold winters. Rosa rugosa is perfect 

 here, but this is not strange, as I believe it to be indigenous to 

 extreme east Europe and north-central Asia. We have varie- 

 ties of it from east-central Russia that do not differ materially 

 from those we have from China and Japan, and we have nearly 

 double varieties which we were told originated long ago in 

 west Asia. One of these has quite large, dark purple, fragrant 

 Mowers, with an average of over forty petals. All the Cara- 

 ganas are perfect here, and C. arborescens is decidedly tree- 

 like in habit. Some of the large-flowering dwarf species, 

 top-worked on C. arborescens, make very desirable minia- 

 ture trees for lawns. We have some specimens that attract 

 more attention than any trees on the grounds. 



The many varieties of the Bush Honeysuckles from east 

 Europe and north-central Asia are perfect here, and the same 

 is true of all the species and varieties of Philadelphus except 

 those from south Europe and south Asia. 



Of the Forsythias we find F. suspensa the hardiest, and, if 

 properly trained on a trellis, by far the most ornamental. 

 Etionymtts nanus is a native of the north slopes of the Cau- 

 casus range and of the steppes north of it, and it proves per- 

 fectly at home on our prairies. Aside from the conifers, it is 

 the only plant that holds its leaves with perfect color during 

 the whole winter. It fruits with us very abundantly, which, I 

 believe, it does not do in south Europe, and I suspect not 

 very perfectly at Boston or Montreal. 



Hydrangea paniculata is perfect in plant and flower with us, 

 and I suspect its original home was north-central Asia. 



Tamarix tetranda we have not tried; but T. Amurensis is 

 hardy with us, and a far better plant than T. Germanica, 

 which is tender. 



Ames, Iowa. /. L. Blldd. 



Chrysanthemums in Pots. — I. 



AS between planting out Chrysanthemums and growing 

 them continuously in pots, opinions vary. Those who 

 plant, argue that less attention is required and larger plants 

 are obtained. My experience is, that for all purposes con- 

 tinuously pot-grown plants are preferable, and especially is 

 this true of those required for specimen plants ; while with 

 pot-grown plants for specimen blooms more substance and 

 better color are obtained. 



The methods of growers vary. Some use elaborate compo- 

 sitions of soil, mixed with almost chemical exactness ; others 

 are satisfied with any ordinary rich loam, believing, as I do, 

 that it is the after-treatment that counts. Some give as many 

 as three changes, or shifts, before the final potting, which they 

 make in June ; others only two, and make the final shift in 

 May. Some rigorously remove all suckers as they appear ; 

 others vary their practice with different varieties. 



The soil used from the first shift onward should be com- 

 posed of some good, light, fibrous loam, being turf laid up 

 the fall previously, alternately layered with cow-manure and 

 road-scrapings. If heavy loam only be available, horse-ma- 

 nure had better be substituted. A little lime might be benefi- 

 cial, but is not essential. What is important, is to have good 

 loam in a moderately dry state and to pack it firmly, leaving 

 the feeding of the plants until later in the season. 



Presuming plants are well established in three or four-inch 

 pots by the first week in April, I would shift at once into six- 

 inch pots if intended ultimately for tens, and into seven-inch 

 pots if intended for twelves. The plants should have been 

 stopped once, but if this has not been done, the work should 

 be delayed for a week, until they are somewhat established. 

 Unless there be good light and facilities for airing in the green- 

 house, the plants should be moved into a cold frame by the 

 second week in April, plunged in sand and protected at night 

 until all danger of frost is past. The final potting may then 

 begin and it may extend over two weeks, beginning with the 

 earlier and stronger varieties intended for ten-inch pots, giv- 

 ing the weaker-growing varieties and those intended for the 

 largest pots a little more time. I take particular pains to have 

 the pots clean, inside as well as out, and well drained. The 

 soil is packed quite firmly, leaving about two inches for water- 

 ing or a top dressing, if it should seem necessary. Water 



should be given sparingly for a week or ten days, unless the 

 weather be very dry. I would rather return them to the frames 

 so as to be able to lay over a few sashes during heavy rains. 

 This is more important than it may seem, as a heavy soaking 

 before new roots have developed is really injurious. 



We plunge the pots in the ground nearly to the rims, three 

 feet apart and four between the rows. Last year a potter 

 made for us circular disks of earthenware, six inches in diam- 

 eter by one thick, with a bore in the centre two inches wide £ 

 these are set into the ground and the pots are placed upon them. 

 This contrivance, simple as it is, keeps the drainage free, as it 

 effectually prevents worms from entering the pots from the 

 ground. The clogging of the drainage in pots by worms has 

 always been a great obstacle to growing plants in pots, espe- 

 cially during the feeding season, when free passage of water 

 is essential. 



I hose my plants freely after bright days during June and 

 July — a practice which keeps the plants clean, and which 

 seems beneficial in other ways which I cannot explain. 



Wellesley, Mass. T. D. Hatfield. 



Easter Plants. 



'THE use of flowering plants in special decorations for 

 -*■ Easter observances is increasing, and not only in decora- 

 tions, for it seems in many instances that a Lily or some other 

 plant in flower is preferred to the elaborate Easter card of ■ 

 previous seasons. 



' The increase of these pleasant customs is, of course, a profit- 

 able thing for the florist, though with the extended demand 

 there has also been a great increase in the supply; in fact, the 

 supply may be too abundant, and in consequence lower prices 

 may prevail. But while this class of business counts as an 

 important item in many commercial establishments, it requires 

 much care on the part of the grower. For instance, one may 

 be preparing a large lot of Lilium longifiorum, and if so it will 

 be found practically impossible to induce all the plants in a 

 thousand or more bulbs to grow at the same rate, even though 

 under apparently the same conditions, and in consequence the 

 more forward plants must be sorted out and placed in a cooler 

 temperature so as to allow the remainder of the lot to catch 

 up with them ; or the slow growers must be hurried by in- 

 creased heat and feeding. In fact, this sorting operation may 

 have to be gone through several times, so as to bring the 

 entire lot into an even condition by the week before Easter. 



There still exists a considerable difference of opinion as to- 

 the respective claims of Lilium Harrisii and Lilium lojigi- 

 florum for Easter work. Of course it is admitted that for early 

 forcing L. Harrisii is superior, and in size of flower it also 

 takes the lead, but for actual beauty and for lasting qualities 

 L. longiflorum still- holds its own, and its flowers not being 

 pendant the plants can be packed much more readily for 

 transportation. 



The Ascension Lily, as it is sometimes called {Lilium 

 candidum), is also grown in quantity in some localities for 

 Easter use, and while not so showy as the preceding sorts, is- 

 very beautiful, and especially useful for cutting. 



Lilium candidum will not bear hard forcing, and conse- 

 quently should be started into growth so early that it may be 

 kept in a cool house, because when exposed to too high a 

 temperature the loss of the lower leaves Usually follows, and 

 thus the full beauty of the plant is lost. 



Next in importance to the Liliums among Easter plants may- 

 be mentioned the' Hydrangeas, the forcing of which has at- 

 tained large proportions of late years, though the prevalence 

 of cloudy, dark weather during the present season, together 

 with an early Easter, has somewhat upset the calculations of 

 producers. Still, among so large a number of growers near 

 the various floral centres, it is scarcely likely that there will be 

 a Hydrangea famine this year. 



As to varieties for forcing, H. hortensis and H. Thomas Hogg; 

 take the lead and in the order named, though the latter is 

 purer in color than the former, and where white is essential,, 

 of course it takes first place. Azalea Indica in variety is in- 

 dispensable at this season, large quantities being annually im- 

 ported from Belgium for this purpose, in addition to the- 

 multitude of home-grown plants used in the same way. 



The plants imported last fall have not, however, beeru 

 entirely satisfactory, many of them having been nipped by 

 frost before shipment, and thereby lost their buds. 



For early work the favorite varieties are among the follow- 

 ing : Deutsche Perle, double white; Fielder's White; Madame 

 Van der Cruyssen, deep rose, and one of the best of its color:; 

 Eugene Mazel, red with dark blotch; and for cut-flower work 

 Indica alba must not be omitted. 



