354 



The rapids are more numerous, and long deep reaches far less seldom met 

 with. The native population in the higher parts of this river is small in 

 number. 



On the sixth day's voyage we left the Rangitikei, and ascended the 

 Moawhanga for half a day's journey, passing through the narrow canon already 

 described. Our canoe voyage then terminated. We ascended the cliff, and 

 walked to a pa called Pawerawera. Here we found no one at home, but made 

 ourselves comfortable for the night, and on the following day proceeded to 

 Papatahi, where we only found two men and some women and children. The 

 inhabitants of the district had gone to Taupo to celebrate the obsequies of Te 

 Herekiekie. From this point Ruahine appeared about fifteen miles distant 

 to the eastward, with the tertiaries lying on its flank at about the same height 

 at which we stood. I had wished to explore into one of its gorges, but found 

 that my supplies woiild be insufficient. I was informed, however, that two 

 days' poling in the Rangitikei, above the junction of the Moawhanga, will 

 bring the traveller to the pa Te Awarua, and that probably from that pa as a 

 base the Ruahine might be most easily explored ; although a traverse 

 from the Napier country would probably prove the easier operation. 



Towards the east, in the direction of Napier, I observed tertiary hills 

 capped with a scarped stratum, evidently limestone. From Papatahi, Ruahine 

 was in sight, bearing N. 55° W., by compass. 



We procured a guide and a baggage horse, and started for Taupo. Our 

 route lay through an open and well grassed country ; but on both sides there 

 was a large extent of forest in sight. We crossed the Moawhanga by a 

 bridge over a vertical chasm, and slept at Pukehiwi. Leaving the valley of 

 the Moawhanga, we traversed that of the Hautapu, the country improving in 

 pastoral qualities. At Turangerere, on the Hautapu, there is a fine waterfall, 

 and a pa of importance, celebrated for an enormous Waatu or store, built 

 by the late chief Te Herekiekie, and called from its size Niu Tirani. 

 We were still travelling over tertiaries, and at the Moawhanga bridge, at 

 Turangarere, found " Venus," and other marine shells. 



Encamped for the night at a pretty place called Poutamurengi, we bade 

 farewell next day to the valley of the Hautapu, and crossing the Waitangi, 

 passed from marine tertiary rocks to the volcanic products of Ruapehu. The 

 ascent, although not very perceptible, was now rapid. We entered the valley 

 of the Wangaehu, and gradually ascended it to its source. During this day I 

 had observed the range of Kaimanawa, as we passed its southern end, rising 

 out of the tertiaries. At a glance I saw it was a range of old slate rocks. On 

 the rest of our way to Taupo it was on our right, a few miles distant. It is a 

 powerful range, rising to an elevation of over 5000 feet. It is not a continua- 

 tion of Ruahine, but lies to the westward of the line of that range, and is the 

 highest part in structure of the North Island. Ruapehu was now on our left. 

 On its eastern flank lies a small glacier, or a neve. Our guide, Tuakau, 

 pointed out to us the marks of the avalanche which fell from this, and 

 ultimately destroyed the bridge of the Wangaehu. The avalanche, after 

 descending the movmtain, was carried by its impetus for some miles across the 

 plain, into the bed of the Wangaehu. The left bank of that river, being the 

 highest, stopped the further progress of the avalanche, which consequently 

 formed a dam. The river ran dry below, and formed a lake above, until the 

 accumulated waters carried the debacle before them to the sea, sweeping away 

 the Wangaehu bridge, some forty or fifty miles below. 



We could perceive distinctly the marks of the progress of the avalanche 

 aci-oss the plain. The ground had been bared, and large patches of bushes 

 swept away. 



As all the rivers from the Whanganui to the Rangitikei, both inclusive, 



