28o 



Garden and Forest. 



[June 12, 1889. 



at the same cost. The corners of the bags are cut off — at the 

 bottom to let out an_v water that may enter, and the tops to 

 facihtate its reaching around the cane. In fact, if the bags 

 were open at the bottom they would probably be quite as 

 efficient. Tlie tighter and more perfect the roof or top of the 

 bag to exclude tlie entrance of the fungus and water from 

 above, the better. I sometimes use three-pound bags, en- 

 closing two clusters in each, which answers very well where 

 the clusters are close and compact, but with looser clusters 

 they are apt to grow into each other. 



Complaint is sometimes made that the bags are not a com- 

 plete protection, as the grapes sometimes rot in the bags. 

 This is true, but in such cases it is fair to presume they were 

 infected before the bags were applied. It is a great mistake 

 to defer bagging too late. The longer it is put off after 

 the grapes are fairly set, the greater the risk of failure. I 

 have demonstrated to my satisfaction that if the grapes are 

 uncontaminated when the bags are applied, they will remain 

 so till maturity if the bag remains perfect. Sometimes small 

 hail-stones will perforate the bags, and the rot spores will thus 

 gain an entrance; and sometimes a manufacturer will use paper 

 of an inferior quality that will not resist the rain-drops, but 

 generally, they will withstand the weather through the season. 

 Some varieties of Grapes having strong, perfect flowers are 

 self-fertilizing, and these can be bagged before they bloom, 

 as they will fertilize perfectly in the bags. In fact, we have 

 good reason to believe that many blossoms are fructified be- 

 fore they open. The Niagara, Cottage, Concord and Clinton 

 are of this class. On the other hand, varieties with imperfect 

 flowers seem to need the pollen of other varieties to enable 

 them to set their fruit. To bag these before blooming would, 

 of course, deprive them of this assistance. Bagging is not 

 only a protection from rot, but from birds also. Bagged fruit is 

 a little later in maturing, and in the case of white grapes a little 

 greener in color, but the bloom and appearance is more per- 

 fect. I have not been able to perceive any tendency to ten- 

 derness of skin as claimed by some, in bagged specimens. 



Does bagging pay is the question universally asked, and I 

 can answer it in both the affirmative and negative. To the 

 amateur who thoroughly appreciates fine, well-grown, perfect 

 clusters that excite the admiration of all beholders, to the pro- 

 fessional grower who competes for the prizes at exhibitions, 

 or who aspires to fancy trade at fancy prices, I say yes. But 

 to the one who cannot command five cents a pound or over 

 for his fruit I say no, emphatically. 



The experiments made during the past two years in this 

 country with preparations of copper-sulphate for the preven- 

 tion of the mildew of the Vine have seemed to indicate that 

 these mixtures were also antidotesfor Black Rot. If further ex- 

 periments should fully establish this fact we can dispense with 

 bags, save the labor, and grow grapes out-of-doors as in for- 

 mer years. I learn the rot has appeared already at Vineland, 

 and this season will perhaps fully demonstrate the efficiency 

 of this treatment. The preparation considered the best is 

 what is known as the Bordeaux mixture, which is made as 

 follows : Dissolve six pounds of sulphate of copper in hot wa- 

 ter, and slake four pounds of fresh lime in sufficient water to 

 make milk of lime ; mix the two together, and add enough 

 water to make twenty-two gallons. This mixture should be 

 sprayed on the vines at intervals of ten days to two weeks 

 during the summer. This can be done with any of the force- 

 pumps with a nozzle that delivers the liquid in the form of 

 mist. The Eureka Sprayer, a modification of the Vermorel 

 machine sent over here from France, is recommended highly 

 by those who have used it. 



Montclair, N. J. 



E. Williams. 



Summer-Flowering Bulbs. 



AN important point to remember in the culture of these bulbs 

 is that their flowering season is the rainy season of their 

 native countries. This is particularly true of the Tigridij and 

 the Gladiolus, which bloom in cool, rainy or winter season, 

 while their jjeriod of rest is in the excessive hot, dry weather 

 peculiar to their home. TheCalla, a native of the Nile, blooms 

 when the roots are a foot under water in the spring, and rests 

 at low water, when their roots are as dry as it is possible to be 

 and live. The same is the case with many of the so-called 

 Cape bulbs. 



The Gladiolus will grow under any conditions, but it will not 

 grow well. A cool, moist atmosphere is the one in which they 

 delight. Climate alone is what makes them succeed so well in 

 England. Last year we had rain in abundance, with low tem- 

 perature, and never before have we had such perfection in 

 Gladiolus flowers. We make a mistake in planting our bulbs 



too early. They should be kept cool and dry, and in a dark 

 room until the ist of July, then chey will come into bloom 

 about the ist of October, throwing up spikes that for number 

 and size of flowers woifld hardly be recognized as the varieties 

 that bloomed in midsummer. If planted early, so as to flower 

 in Jidy and AugList, they should be protected against the heat 

 of the sun by a lattice or light canvas covering, and the bed 

 should have a light mulching of newly-cut grass. This will 

 keep the roots cool, and is not unsightly. The capabilities of 

 the Gladiolus are only known to those who grow them in this 

 manner. The soil makes but little difference with Gladioli. 

 Any soil that will yield good crops of potatoes will be equally 

 good for these plants. If it is heavy, plant shallow, say from 

 one to two inches deep ; if light, from four to six inches will be 

 better. It is best to use ground made very rich for some other 

 crop the previous year, as fresh manure does not suit them. 



Lilies, quite as much as Gladiolus, need a good mulching to 

 keep the roots cool and moist. A bed of Lilies that has been 

 properly mulched a few years will yield enomiously ; more 

 than thrice the number of flowers will be produced, and they 

 will be much larger, with better defined colors and of greater 

 substance. A Lily-bed should be made in a position where it 

 can remain undisturbed for a number of years, and as long as 

 the plants flower well. The Ascension Lily (Z. candidum), the 

 handsomest of all Lilies, should be planted in July or August, 

 while the bulb is resting. They will live when planted at any 

 time, but will flourish only when planted at the proper season. 



Tigridias are Mexican bulbs, and do not endure our north- 

 ern sun. Treat them as Lilies should be treated. In October 

 the flowers remain open nearly the whole day, while in August 

 they close before noon. Give them a moist, cool situation, 

 and they will appreciate the treatment. 



Dahlias are not properly bulbous plants, but they may prop- 

 erly be included in the same list. To be grown well they must 

 have a cool and moist soil, which is usually a heavy one. If 

 the garden does not afford such assist it by heavy mulching. 

 If Dahlias are grown simply for distant eft'ect give them plenty 

 of room to branch out and plenty of plant-food, for they are 

 great feeders. If individual blooms are desired, thin out the 

 smaller branches and disbud. We prefer the foriner treat- 

 ment, and want the plant to occupy all the space it requires, 

 and to produce as many flowers as it hkes. 



Floral Park, N. Y. C. L. Allen, 



Notes on Wild Flowers. 



Viola cuculata, now in flower, has the greatest number of 

 forms of any of our northen Violets. Under cultivation the 

 larger forms attain great size, and the profusion of large, deep 

 green leaves make it a desirable plant. It likes a moist and 

 rich clay loam, but will live in almost any soil. V. pedata 

 (Bird's-Foot Violet) is a showy species, bearing numerous 

 large blue flowers. A moist, loamy soil seems to suit it, yet it 

 will grow in any ordinary soil. Viola Canadensis is the tallest 

 species we have in New England, and it often reaches a height 

 of two feet or more. The white flowers, veined with purple, 

 are borne in great abundance. It is a more difficult plant to 

 grow to perfection than the Violets before named, but if given a 

 moist, rich soil in the shade it will become established. 



Camassia Fraseri, now in flower, has a short, loose spike 

 of blue flowers and grows about eight inches high. It seems 

 to be hardy, having stood the past two winters here in the open 

 ground without protection. C. Cusickii, also in flower, is by 

 far the largest Camassia we have seen. The bulbs are often 

 twice the size of an ordinary hen's egg. The stems attain a 

 height of over two feet, bearing- long spikes, or racemes, of 

 fight blue flowers an inch in diameter, and there are frequently 

 over forty of these to one spike. The plant is not difficult to 

 cultivate, and, if planted deep, ought to be as hardy as most of 

 the Lilies. 



Aplectrum hyemale (Putty root) is not a showy Orchid. Its 

 curious single leaf, which, like that of Calypso and of Tipularia 

 discolor, comes up in autumn, remaining green through the 

 winter until flowering time, then dying down to the bulb, is one 

 of its chief attractions. It may be planted with success at any 

 season, in moist, well-drained soil in the shade. 



Arethusa biclbosa, now in flower, is one of the most charm- 

 ing little Orchids we have, although it is generally considered 

 difficult to grow. It is a bog plant, and needs plenty of mois- 

 ture. The finest plants we have seen were growing naturally 

 in thick beds of Sphagnum moss. Itsomefimes attains a height 

 of fourteen inches, but is oftener not more than six. We have 

 planted it in autumn in a moist clay loam with good success. 

 But the best place for it is in the Sphagnum beds of artificial 

 bogs, where it would be sure to thrive. 



