2IO MAINE AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION. I904. 



of the top is not removed in any one year. Cut off about one- 

 third of the top the first year and insert cions on stubs not more 

 than two or three inches in diameter. The next year remove 

 more of the top and insert other cions, and the following - year 

 complete the work. 



It is not advisable to plant a solid block of 100 trees of one 

 variety unless there are other trees in the immediate vicinity. 

 Some varieties are self-fertile and will give satisfactory results 

 if planted alone ; but it is always safer to provide for cross fertili- 

 zation. In large orchards every third or fourth row should be 

 of a different variety. Two or three varieties are enough for 

 a commercial orchard, however, and it is seldom advisable to 

 plant more. 



MULCHING FOR APPLES TREES AND GOOSE- 

 BERRIES. 



A correspondent recently sent to the Maine Agricultural 

 Experiment Station the following questions which were 

 answered by Professor W. M. Munson, as below : 



"Is the waste from shingle mills ("shingle hair") a better 

 mulch for apple trees than sawdust? Is there any objection to 

 pine needles as a mulch for gooseberry bushes ?" 



Shingle edgings ("shingle hair") are excellent for mulching 

 either apple trees or strawberry plants. As in the case of saw- 

 dust, it is better to use material that is not quite fresh; or take 

 precautions so as to keep it from packing closely about the base 

 of the tree. Sawdust is the most satisfactory material ever used 

 at the Station as a winter protection and summer mulch for 

 strawberries. It conserves the moisture effectively and is free 

 from weeds. 



The best mulch for gooseberries, as for other small fruits, is a 

 fine dust cover provided by thorough cultivation. If for any 

 reason this can not be given, I see no objection to the use of 

 pine needles or the "shingle hair," referred to above. 



