106 MAINE AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION. 



dwelling. It is very little more work to leave the surface of 

 the ground smooth after -the final grading about the buildings 

 than it is to leave it rough and uneven. Arrange if possible, 

 to have a few inches of good loam on the surface when the grad- 

 ing is completed, and in any case, make a liberal application 

 of well rotted stable manure. After thorough preparation and 

 raking with a hand rake, seed very thickly, using three to five 

 bushels of seed per acre. After the seed is sown, roll and if 

 late in the season or the soil is very dry, mulch with chaff or 

 fine manure or leaf mould. Keep the grass closely clipped 

 during the summer. In this way only can the weeds be kept 

 down and a thick velvety turf be formed. In the latter part of 

 the season it is well to let the grass become longer, for the double 

 purpose of strengthening the roots and of serving as a mulch 

 during the winter. 



The best grasses for a lawn are Kentucky Blue Grass and 

 Red Top, with a slight admixture of White Clover on heavy 

 soils. Rhode Island Bent is also a valuable grass for heavy 

 clay soils. On a sandy loam, Kentucky Blue Grass alone will 

 be found as satisfactory as anything. 



As to the care of the lawn but little need be said. In the 

 spring it is well to rake off dead leaves and roll the ground, but 

 the practice of burning over the lawn is not to be recommended. 

 A lawn mower is necessary to insure good results. A very 

 good machine can be procured for $5, and the labor of mowing 

 in this way is very light. 



On small surfaces a lawn may be formed more quickly and 

 better by turfing than by seeding. For this operation the sur- 

 face should be prepared as for seeding. Then from some well 

 established lawn or from an old pasture procure sods about one 

 and one-half inches thick. These should be as nearly as pos- 

 sible of a uniform width and thickness, and should be cut into 

 strips several feet long rather than in squares. The strips may 

 be made into compact rolls for moving to the desired place. 

 In laying the turf be careful to make good joints and when 

 it is in place beat it thoroughly with a heavy wooden mallet. 



About two years will usually be required to free a newly 

 seeded lawn from weeds. Close clipping will keep most weeds 

 in check but it may be necessary to dig the roots of some, e. g. 

 mallow, fall dandelion, etc. 



