Insects. 2839 



strange sights, a walk through the streets of Para is the greatest pos- 

 sible treat to me." 



"Para, October 19, 1848. 

 " Since I wrote to you 1 have been travelling a good deal : we staid 

 in the neighbourhood of Para till August 26, then forwarded a large 

 chest of insects, 3635 specimens, twelve chests of plants, &c, to 

 England, and proceeded with an American, who was going for cedar, 

 on a voyage up the river Tocantins. We hired an old canoe with 

 two sails, and manned by three Indians, two of whom deserted and 

 left us in great difficulty ; we had to hire men as we could. The jour- 

 ney took five weeks, and we reached about the fourth degree south 

 latitude, where very few Europeans had been before ; and only one 

 Englishman, Mr. Burchell. At different places we stopped to collect; 

 but of course slept most of our time on the water under a cover 

 of palm thatch arched over the boat ; and living on dried fish 

 and biscuits, or turtle, fresh fish, lizard or monkey ; just what turned 

 up. We passed out of the flat, swampy, muddy region, which forms 

 the Delta of the Amazons, and reached the mountainous region of the 

 interior. With all the difficulties I thoroughly enjoyed the voyage: we 

 had fine weather and good health ; had a boat to go on shore, to 

 shoot, &c. ; and landed besides generally during adverse tides. The 

 river and forest scenery, though monotonous, was very beautiful ; the 

 water dark, and clear as crystal, with sandy bottom and shores ; mag- 

 nificent forests, and undulating lands ; groves of the Bertholletia 

 excelsa. The river for one hundred and fifty miles is thickly studded 

 with islands; the width at the mouth, six to eight miles; about two 

 hundred and fifty miles up, only one mile. The reason of its being so 

 little known, is from its being unnavigable higher up from rapids and 

 falls, caused by its bed being choked up with rocks : at the extreme 

 point to which we reached, we were obliged to travel in an open boat 

 for two days-; the river for miles being full of intricate channels, falls, 

 roaring rapids and whirlpools : it was most exciting shooting the ra- 

 pids, amidst the yells of our Indian pilot. What struck me most in 

 this journey, was the scarcity of animal life; whether it is really so, 

 or whether owing to its being diffused over such an enormous extent 

 of forest, I cannot say. Of quadrupeds, I only saw about half a dozen 

 monkeys and one rodent animal during the whole voyage ; birds 

 were more abundant, but it was difficult to shoot more than five or six 

 in a morning worth having : on the rocks, sandy islets, and shores, 

 were always a few herons, Ibises, sand-pipers, and plovers ; the two 



