196 



Garden and Forest. 



[Number 377. 



members of the family. Time is needed to produce a 

 large plant, but, as nothing is lost by winter-killing, the 

 grand result is, upon the whole, favorable when compared 

 with that of M. conspicua, M. Lennei or M. Soulangeana. 

 The plant needs a deep, rich soil, and, after it is well estab- 

 lished, should have plenty of manure. Protect at first with a 

 mulch of leaves in winter, and with evergreen boughs. 

 The mulching of leaves should always be given, as it 

 sometimes serves to retard the time of blooming, which 

 is very desirable in our uncertain northern climate. It 

 is a good plan to water well during the hot July and 

 August weather — not a little sprinkling every day, but 

 water by bucketsful once or twice a week. The propa- 

 gation is by layers and by grafts, the last method pro- 

 ducing the best plants. M. stellata was one of the plants 

 sent to the Parsons' Nurseries twenty-five years ago by 

 Dr. Hall, after whom it is sometimes called M. Halleana. 



TuLiPA SYLVESTRis. — This is the common Wild Tulip and 

 is sometimes called by bulb-dealers Tulipa fragrans and T. 

 Florentina odorata. It is one of the most beautiful and 

 graceful of all the Tulip species, and deserves a place in 

 every garden where herbaceous plants are cherished. It 

 is now in bloom, coming a little later than the so-called 

 earl}'' Tulips, a week or more later than the Due van Tholls. 

 It is a native of Europe, and has been long in cultivation. 

 The flowers are large and bright yellow ; they are fragrant, 

 this quality being sufficiently well marked to have given 

 the plant the synonyms quoted above. The great beauty 

 of the plant is the graceful form of the perianth and the 

 pleasing way in which the flowers are borne on the stalks 

 without any trace of the stiffness which so often mars gar- 

 den Tulips. The segments of the perianth are long and 

 narrow, and the flower buds upon its stem ; occasionally 

 two flowers are produced upon the same peduncle. No 

 difficulty attends its cultivation ; a deep mellow loam, well 

 drained, and plenty of well-rotted manure are the only re- 

 quirements. In fact, it grows so easily that it sometimes 

 establishes itself in gardens as a veritable Wild Tulip, the 

 only care required under these circumstances being not to 

 disturb the bulbs. Omit the annual lifting and curing, and 

 let them grow on with the Crocus and Daffodils, disturbing 

 them only when they become crowded. The bulbs are 

 inexpensive and easily obtainable. 



Triteleia uniflora. — The "Spring Star Flower " is still 

 in bloom, although it begins to flovver with the early hardy 

 bulbs. In ordinary seasons it flowers in this latitude in 

 March, and it is quite a showy plant when grown in mod- 

 erately large clumps. The star-like flowers are for the 

 most part white, with a faint marking round the segments 

 and throat of pale lilac, or they are a delicate lilac as they 

 open and quickly fade to white on the upper surface. The 

 leaves are about si-x inches long and quite narrow. This 

 species is a native of Buenos Ayres, and there is a large- 

 flowered variety of it called Conspicua, which is even 

 prettier than the type. To have the plants in flower as 

 early as possible they should be given, of course, a sunny 

 and well-drained situation. This Triteleia makes a fine 

 pot plant in late winter for a cool house, if about a dozen 

 bulbs are set in a six-inch pot in September and kept in a 

 cold frame until about a fortnight before they are wanted 

 to flower. 



PAPAVfiR Alpinum. — Among all the beautiful plants and 

 flowers of the season there are none more dainty and at- 

 tractive in leaf and flower than the Alpine Poppies. The 

 neat little mound of finely cut glabrous foliage is alone 

 beautiful, but when above this many flowers of dainty 

 tissue spring in air on slender stems the picture is one great 

 charm. The usual colors of Alpine Poppies are yellow, 

 white and light pinks. These are also often in combina- 

 tions, as, for instance, a yellow edging on a white ground. 

 P. nudicaule, which is botanically almost identical with 

 P. Alpinum, has leaves less finely cut, and among these 

 may be found beautiful orange-scarlet flowers, and it seems 

 to be most frequently grown in gardens. The cultivation 

 of Alpine Poppies is very simple. The seed may be sown 



either in seed-beds or in the borders, preferably early in the 

 year. The young plants require some care in transplant- 

 ing, but can be successfully moved at any time. Early- 

 sown seeds will make flowering plants the same season, 

 but will be at their best the second year. While true per- 

 ennials, these plants are apt to go off from excessive flow- 

 ering and dampness. Their requirements are perfectly 

 drained places where no water will lodge at their base and 

 a top-dressing over their roots in early spring, as the frosts 

 sometimes are apt to lift them in the early year. 



Iris rubro-marginata. — The flowering season of the rhi- 

 zomatous Irises commences here in April with the flowering 

 of this little Central Asia Minor Iris. I. rubro-marginata is 

 allied to I. puniila, which is very familiar in gardens as a 

 dwarf border-plant, usually flowering in May. The leaves 

 of this species are falcate, two to four inches high, mar- 

 gined usually with red. The rhizomes are short and short- 

 creeping. The flowers are small, of beautiful compact 

 form, with large standards and of a peculiar vinous color, 

 with metallic reflections. They are borne in profusion, 

 and the plants at flowering-time are quietly, rather than 

 strikingly, handsome. 



Cultural Department. 



Chr3'santhemums for Specimen Plants. 



CHRYSANTHEMUM -PLANTS intended for exhibition 

 should now be well established in six or seven inch pots. 

 If they have been judiciously stopped they will be compact, 

 well-baianced plants. It is important we have a good founda- 

 tion to begin with. Even at tliis stage the practiced eye can 

 pick out those best suited for specimens. A poor plant now 

 will make a poor specimen. We should not, however, judge 

 by size only. As a rule, varieties inclined to be tall and rather 

 coarse, even though they may be the largest plants now, do 

 not make the best specimens. In (lie exhibition height is dis- 

 counted. There are also many novelties received late in the 

 season, which have all the qualities required to make good 

 plants, although they may now be a stage behind. Portia, 

 lora. White Louis Bcehmer and Minerva, novelties of last year, 

 were among the largest and handsomest of specimens at the 

 exliibitions. Among novehies of tliis year which look promis- 

 ing and worth a trial are Burt Eddy, Nellie Elverson, Esther 

 Heacock, Mrs. Henry Rofjinson, Miss Gladys Spaulding, Miss 

 Maggie Blenkiron, Vice-President Calvat, Nemesis, Radiance, 

 Nyanza and Monsieur R. Dean. 



When we look over our plants we shall find that some of 

 the choicest ones have gone prematurely to bloom. This is 

 unsatisfactory. These rarely make good specimens. It is as 

 if they had to start over again. Often, however, they will 

 break out anew, as did Cullingfordii, G. W. Childs, Ivory and 

 Louis Bix-hmer one season. At ihis time these were essential 

 in my collection for color-effect, and, havino; no choice, I had 

 to persevere with them. Whenever I can afford it I always 

 discard such plants, and when I know of this tendency I 

 always fortify myself willi duplicates enougli for choice. 



For large specimens intended for exhibition we use twelve- 

 inch pots. Tliese are really too large ; but as the horticultural 

 societies allow this size, it is not likely that exhibitors will run 

 the risk of losing a premium bystintof pot-room. A specimen 

 plant six feet in diameter, and from eight to nine feet over, is 

 far too unwieldly, and the labor of tying out two dozen of such 

 plants can only be comprehended by those who have tried it. 



Our soil is light and moderately rich. We use about one- 

 fifth wefl-decomposed m:mure ; some of us have profited by 

 the mistake of using more. We prefer to feed the plants later, 

 and stimulants can be applied as needed, much depending 

 upon the condition of the plants with regard to health. Lime 

 in some form should be an ingredient of the soil. Bone-meal, 

 if composted a month, at least, before being used, is probably 

 the best fertilizer. It should not be put in freshly. Lime rub- 

 bish, or even coal-ashes, will answer quite well for present 

 purposes. The drainage must be thorough. We pot lightly 

 to avoid the risk of overwatering — a misfortune that befalls 

 some of the most promising plants in their earlier stages. Two 

 inches or more is left for water, and an additional dressing of 

 good soil later. 



After being potted, our plants are returned to frames for a 

 week or two, and the sashes are kept on — although abundance 

 of air is given — more as a precaution against heavy rain than 

 anything. When nicely rooted in the new soil the plants are 



