September 28, 1892.] 



Garden and Forest. 



463 



folium, because its flowers are of the same bright orange-red, 

 and there are many on a stem varying in number with vigor 

 of the plant. The flowers appear early, too, and are pleas- 

 antly fragrant. L. croceum is the old-fashioned orange Lily, 

 and is a good kind to plant wliere a permanent group is wanted. 

 It is usually about three feet high when in bloom with umbels 

 of erect orange-red flowers. L. elegans is similar in habit 

 but not so tall when fully developed; the flowers are similar 

 in color but vary in different varieties, of which there are many 

 in catalogues, but the mixed bulbs, as grown by the Dutch, 

 give a pleasing range of color and are exceedingly cheap — in 

 Holland. It should be stated that L. elegans is often grown 

 under the name of L. Thunbergianum, but L. elegans is the 

 older name. The dwarf habit of this species makes it valu- 

 able for margins of Lily-beds or borders where shrubs are 

 planted. All are familiar with L. candidum, the IVIadonna 

 Lily ; it is perfectly hardy, but we grow it in pots, the same 

 bulbs year after year, for piazza decoration in summer, and the 

 bulbs improve in size. They are rested after flowering and 

 repotted in July, just before growth commences, for in fall this 

 species has green leaves all winter. L. Harrisii, the Easter 

 Lily, and L. longiflorum are both hardy in sheltered situations 

 with a covering of leaves in winter. The tendency with these 

 two kinds is to start to grow the first year in fall, but after a 

 year or two they forget all 



about it and come on 



naturally in spring. The 

 Tiger Lilies are well known 

 as hardy, but the older va- 

 riety should only be grown 

 to complete a collection, 

 as the kind known as L. 

 tigrinum spiendens is so 

 much superior to it. The 

 double variety is good for 

 its durability when in 

 bloom, though many do 

 not admire the double 

 flowers. L. excelsum of 

 catalogues, more correctly 

 L. testaceum, has flowers 

 of a different color from 

 that of any other Lily. This 

 is a light brown or buff, 

 and it is very distinct and 

 ornamental. This Lily 

 should always be planted 

 in a collection, though it 

 sometimes deteriorates in 

 rich soil. In habit the plant 

 resembles L. candidum. 

 L. Chalcedonicum, the 

 scarlet Turk's-cap Lily, is 

 a native of Greece and is 

 somewhat tender, but in 

 favored localities it should 

 succeed and produce its 

 brisfht scarlet flowers freely 

 enough. 



Of the Japan Lilies, L. au- 

 ratum is, perhaps, the best 



^'t?- 79.— Cypripedium Daisyse. — See page 460. 



flowers similar in shape to L. Harrisii, but larger, white inside, 

 and purplish brown outside the petals. It is exceedingly fra- 

 grant, hardy, but rather expensive, but when once planted in 

 suitable soil does not die out. L. Krameri is a species pos- 

 sessing a refined beauty peculiar to itself, the flowers being of 

 a delicate rosy pink, and borne usually one on a slender stalk. 

 This kind requires careful nursing to induce it to do well, but 

 it is possible to grow and flower it in sheltered positions. 



Lilium pardalinum is the only native western Lily that will 

 thrive in the east, but it grows so cheerfully and luxuriantly 

 that it really seems to be making an honest effort to atone for 

 the bad behavior of its companions of the Sierra Nevada. 

 With us it is as free as L. superbum, which it resembles 

 strongly, although it flowers earlier. All of the species found in 

 the eastern states, L. Canadense and its varieties, Rubrum 

 and Flavum, L. superbum and L. Philadelphicum thrive well 

 when planted in tlie garden, but the last-named should be 

 planted in a dry soil not more than three inches deep. When 

 planted the usual depth L. Philadelphicum will surely perish. 

 Of the noble Himalayan L. giganteum, I cannot record any 

 ■success, and have never seen it in bloom, but Mr. EUwanger's 

 experience with it, as recorded in Garden and Forest, ought 

 to encourage others, now that we know it can be grown. The 

 bulbs are very large, and often remain dormant a year after 



planting, but should start 

 to grow the second year, 

 although with me they did 

 not. Ofanother East Indian 

 Lily, L. Wallichianum su- 

 perbum, usually consid- 

 ered tender, it is worthy 

 of remark that last June, 

 in Mr. Hunnewell's gar- 

 dens at Wellesley, I saw a 

 clump that had been out- 

 doors in the open ground 

 all winter, and the growth 

 was vigorous, and prom- 

 ised well for bloom. If 

 Wallich's Lily proves hardy 

 it will be a great addition 

 to the Lily-border, for, un- 

 der pot-culture, it usually 

 languishes. This and its 

 first cost has had much to 

 do with its rarity in gar- 

 dens. 



Lilies generally do not 

 require a rich soil, in the 

 usual acceptation of the 

 phrase, but a soil rich in 

 decayed vegetable matter 

 is eminently suitable. 

 Hence a compost of good 

 loam and decaj'ed leaf- 

 mould made porous is 

 what is desired. There are 

 some kinds, such as L. 

 tigrinum, L. speciosum, L. 

 candidum and L. Harrisii, 

 that like manure both in 



known, and little needs to be said of it except that I never 

 knew any one to grow the same bulbs long in such health and 

 strength as we receive them in from Japan. The bulbs are 

 cheap, however, and are sure to pay for themselves the first 

 year after planting. There are many varieties of L. speciosum 

 (often called L. lancifolium), but the best kind is that known 

 as Rubrum, which we get from Japan direct, the Dutch va- 

 riety being much inferior to it in color, and may be considered 

 as being the typical L. speciosum. Of white-flowered forms. 

 Album praecox is the best, because it always flowers early. The 

 old white kind flowers later, and is sometimes killed by frost 

 while in bud. This section of the Lily family includes varieties 

 among the handsomest of the genus. They are perfectly 

 hardy, increase under cultivation, and are indispensable to the 

 hardy-flower garden. There are other varieties of L. speciosum 

 which are but slight variations from the two named, which are 

 the best of the section. L. Batemannae should be named in 

 connection with L. tigrinum, which it resembles closely, ex- 

 cept that the flowers are not spotted, but are of a clear apricot 

 color, and desirable for that reason. The dwarf L. Wallacei 

 has also flowers of a similar color, but does not exceed eighteen 

 inches in height. By some it is considered but a variety of L. 

 elegans. The bulbs are always small, but they usually flower 

 freely and increase rapidly. L. Browni is a rare variety, with 



the soil and in the water given, but these are the most 

 vigorous of all Lilies, and the same would not suit any 

 of the more delicate species. The depth to plant Lilies 

 should vary with the size of the matured bulbs. All the' 

 larger kinds may be planted the depth of the spade, 

 about nine or ten inches, bearing in mind that the roots 

 that do the most of the work are produced up the stalk 

 between the bulb and surface of the sod, and if the bulb rests 

 on the subsoil it does not matter, so long as the top soil is 

 right. When manure is applied to the soil the bulbs should 

 first be covered with soil free from it, or decay may be brought 

 on by contact. The richer soil should be used for the stem- 

 roots to feed upon. The ideal position for a Lily-bed is among 

 Rhododendrons. Where these will thrive the Lilies will, the 

 taller kinds being used to come up through them, and the 

 dwarfer ones near the margin of the beds. The leaves used to 

 mulch the Rhododendrons in winter are a fine protection for 

 the Lily-bulbs, and afford when decayed all the needful fer- 

 tilizer, while the shrubs shade the surface of the soil and keep 

 it cool and moist in summer, which is a great advantage. A 

 bare surface soil, which radiates heat in hot weather, turns 

 many of the leaves of Lilies yellow, and causes premature 

 ripening of the stems. In common with all other cultivated 

 plants, the Lily has a disease of its own. Some collections, to 



