2IO A MONOGRAPH OF THE PHEASANTS 



receptacle must be thoroughly cleaned and the lining of algae or "scum" which 

 accumulates removed. 



BREEDING 



Only the strongest and most vigorous birds should be chosen when selecting the 

 breeders. Most rearers consider that two-year-old females lay the most eggs and 

 produce the healthiest young. Of course, hens three years old or even more will do 

 well as breeders, and so will yearlings, but it seems probable that two-year-olds will 

 average better. 



The females of most of the species which are likely to be found in captivity lay 

 during their second summer, that is, when they are a year old, although they generally 

 deposit fewer eggs than more fully adult birds. Late hatched or poorly developed 

 individuals often will not lay at all until two years old. 



In mating pheasants, where one has a choice of birds it is customary to mate young 

 cocks to old hens and vice versa. This is a common practice among breeders of live- 

 stock of all kinds, and probably is justified by results, although no thorough investiga- 

 tion of the matter seems to have been made. At any rate, the cock must be a strong 

 and vigorous bird, especially if he is to be mated with more than one female. 



Pheasants lay during the spring months, the earliest usually being the Elliot, 

 which often commences early in March. Some species, such as the Peacock Pheasants, 

 lay but two eggs, while the common Ring-neck often lays forty or more. This is 

 doubtless due to long cultivation in confinement, wild birds laying much smaller 

 clutches. The daily collecting of the eggs also serves as a stimulus to further laying. 



Most females seem to lay late in the evening, rather than early in the morning, as 

 is the habit of domestic fowls. This fact often puzzles the tyro, who expects the birds 

 to follow the custom of their more domestic relatives. Nests are not provided for 

 pheasants as with domestic poultry. If plenty of shrubbery is provided, the hen will 

 scoop out a hollow in some secluded corner, where her eggs will be deposited. If a 

 suitable nesting-place cannot be found, the eggs are dropped about promiscuously. The 

 eggs should be searched for and removed daily, although it is well to place a "dummy"- 

 in the nest to encourage the bird's return. If eggs are allowed to lie about, they are 

 very apt to be broken, thus leading to the vicious habit of egg-eating. When birds in 

 close confinement once form this habit it seems impossible to break it. The instant the 

 female has deposited an egg, her fellows, and often she herself, will break and eat it. 

 Cocks are more apt than hens to form this habit. Many plans have been tried to 

 prevent egg-eating, but none as yet has proved successful. Eggshells have been filled 

 with every manner of nauseous mess— carbon disulphide, ammonia, mustard, etc. — to no 

 effect. Many even go so far as to trim the bills of the offending birds until they are too 

 tender for egg-breaking, but this cure is as bad as the habit. If china eggs are scattered 

 about, they may divert attention from the real one until it can be collected. The safest 

 method is to confine the hen which is expected to lay in a small, dark coop towards 

 evening, when the egg can generally be secured. 



After collection, the eggs should be stored in a cool, dry place, carefully packed in 

 bran, sawdust or some other loose material. They should be set on end (which one is 

 immaterial) and turned daily. When treated thus, they will hatch perfectly after two or 



