February 24, 1897.] 



Garden and Forest. 



77 



still a field for the hybridist, all the more enticing that the best 

 kinds now known in gardens are of garden origin. No one 

 seems to have yet taken in hand the crossing of the earlier 

 gigantic L. pendula with the later-flowering kinds. We this 

 season planted a lot of L. pendula late in winter for the express 

 purpose of having it in bloom with L. Nelsoni and L. tricolor, 

 and in this we have succeeded. It only remains to cross them, 

 and we may be able to get an infusion of bright coral-red 

 among the yellows that has not been obtained by earlier 

 operators. 



A few notes of varieties best worth growing may be in 

 place here, though it is preferable to procure them in autumn 

 with the other bulbs, or as soon as they can be had from Hol- 

 land. Lachenaha pendula, before noted, is the first to bloom. 

 Indeed, we use it with the earliest of Roman Hyacinths, with 

 which it is a pleasing contrast in color, while the spikes are equal 

 in vigorous development. The leaves of this species are 

 unspotted, and as large as those of a garden Tulip. There is 

 a variety called Gigantea which we have never yet grown, but 

 hope to next year. L. tricolor, of which there are at least half 

 a dozen varieties, is also one of the best. It is in flower now 

 in best condition, and is useful either in pots or for the flowers 

 when cut. The stems should not be cut, but gently pulled out, 

 as Cyclamen flowers are pulled. This adds length to the stem, 

 and if it is done carefully the bulbs are not injured. L. 

 Nelsoni is the best of all the sorts yet grown. Its color is a 

 bright golden yellow ; it increases readily, and is a great ad- 

 vance over its parents, as indeed are the other garden forms 

 already named. It is safe to assume that if these kinds are 

 tried they will be but a beginning, and such species as L. 

 aurea, L. orchioides, L. Cami and L. quadricolor will be 

 added to the set, for all are beautiful and distinct. There are 

 many more species, some of which bear the reputation of 

 being hard to flower in gardens, but with our bright sunny 

 summer days to ripen the bulbs, and the longer growing sea- 

 son iti autumn, we ought to have a great advantage over 

 European cultivators. 



When one has enough bulbs, there is no prettier way to use 

 them than in baskets. The pendulous spikes show to great 

 advantage in this way, and if moss, with a little bone-meal, is 

 used to grow them in the baskets will not be heavy ; a great 

 amount of water or labor will not be necessary. The great 

 secret of cultivating bulbous plants of whatever nature is to 

 take as much care of the plants after they have flowered as 

 when starting them. The bulb is built up for the next year's 

 work after the blooming time, and on this foundation depends 

 all the returns that will be had a year hence. We often hear 

 complaints that Freesias do not bloom well if home-grown 

 bulbs are planted. This depends wholly upon the after treat- 

 ment that we give them. They should never be disturbed 

 until all signs of growth have disappeared. All the soil should 

 then be shaken off and the bulbs stored in a cool dry place 

 until planting time comes again. 



South Lancaster, Mass. £■• <->■ Urpet. 



Select Dwarf Stove Plants. 



PROMINENT among these are the beautiful little Berto- 

 lonias. The delicate hues and exquisite markings of 

 their foliage make them both showy and interesting and a 

 welcome addition to any plant collection. It is somewhat 

 difficult to bring out their true characteristics under ordinary 

 stove treatment, as they require a more humid atmosphere 

 than can usually be maintained, even in a small house. The 

 additional shelter of a small frame should be provided where 

 the atmospheric conditions will be much more easily regu- 

 lated. A plentiful supply of water at the roots is necessary ; 

 syringing or sprinkling overhead is not advisable. The most 

 convenient method of propagation is by cuttings, which strike 

 readily in a moderately close propagating case filled with 

 sharp clean sand. The pots should be thoroughly clean and 

 well drained, and the compost open and porous. Bertolonia 

 Van Houttei, B. Legrelli, B. superba, B. marmorata and B. 

 punctatissimum are probably the best varieties found in 

 general cultivation. 



The genus Sonerila provides some beautiful species, all of 

 dwarf growth and suited to ordinary stove culture. Sonerila 

 Hendersonii and S. margaritacea are among the best sorts ; 

 they require moderate shade and plenty of moisture, and are 

 easily propagated from cuttings. Rough leaf-mold with a 

 plentiful addition of silver sand is a suitable soil for them. The 

 red-veined Fittonia Verschaffeltii and its silvery-veined variety 

 argyroneura are the two forms most commonly grown, and 

 are among the most easily cultivated of dwarf stove plants. 

 They love shade and moisture and grow freely in a compost 



of equal parts of fibrous loam, leaf-mold and sand. On ac- 

 count of their creeping habit, pans are more suitable for their 

 cultivation than pots. Snails are particularly fond of them, 

 and if not checked will quickly disfigure the plants. 



A most attractive little plant is Tapeionites bicolor. The 

 metallic dark green leaves contrast admirably with the pure 

 white flowers ; the latter are borne two or three on a stem and 

 rise just above the foliage. T. bicolor thrives bestin a peaty soil 

 and is propagated most easily from cuttings. Several of the dwarf 

 forms of Aphelandra may be included in this class. They are 

 beautiful both for their flowers and foliage. The flowers are 

 produced in terminal four-sided spikes. Usually but a few 

 blossoms are open at one time, but a succession of blossoms 

 continues for a considerable length of time. Aphelandra Fasci- 

 nator, A. pumila and A. Roezlii are three of the best dwarf 

 forms. They may be propagated either from cuttings or seeds, 

 and some of the varieties produce seeds freely. A light fibrous 

 soil is the best. They need plentiful watering during their 

 growing season, but when not in active growth should be kept 

 rather dry. They are generally cultivated in pots, but I have 

 seen them growing and flowering admirably planted out in 

 rock-work. 



Higginsia discolor and H. regalis are two lovely dwarf plants. 

 The former grows about six inches high, and the latter to 

 nearly twice that height. Propagated by cuttings they are of 

 easy culture under ordinary stove treatment. The leaves of 

 both species are shining green on the surface and purple- 

 tinted below, H. discolor being the most attractive on account 

 of the rich, satiny gloss of the upper surface. 



A neat and almost continuous flowering little plant is Te- 

 tranema Mexicana, commonly called the Mexican Foxglove. 

 The flowers are borne in clusters on upright stalks about four 

 inches high. The ground-color is purple, the markings of a 

 light violet color. It produces seeds freely and is easily 

 increased by this means. 



Tarrytown, N. Y. William Scott. 



Stasf-horn Ferns. 



/^vWING to the eccentric, but graceful, shapes which their 

 ^-S leaves assume, the Platyceriums, or Stag-horn Ferns, as 

 they are commonly called, are plants of prime importance for 

 decoration, and they are specially useful in the stove and green- 

 house. The species, seven or eight in number, are widely dis- 

 tributed over tropical and temperate countries, and all of them, 

 with the exception of Platycerium alcicorneand its forms, re- 

 quire a fairly warm house for their perfect development. Being 

 epiphytal in their nature, they can be grown in a variety of 

 ways. P. grande can be grown satisfactorily upon large blocks 

 of wood or upon the dead stems of Tree Ferns, which, if large 

 enough, make ideal abiding places for this plant, and with the 

 addition annually of a little coarse fibrous peat it can be 

 kept in first-rate condition for many years. P. alcicorne also 

 thrives in wire baskets ; if it has good porous material for the 

 roots to wander in, the entire surface and sides of the recep- 

 tacle will soon be covered with foliage. For growing in pots 

 P. Hillii, a recently introduced species, is the most satisfactory, 

 as its habit is more upright than that of the others. When 

 grown in pots it is advisable to break off part of one side and 

 then to place the plant on that side so that the surface of the 

 soil will not be entirely covered up with the sterile leaves, and 

 thus make it troublesome to supply the plant with as much 

 water as it needs. Since a considerable portion of the roots 

 will be found layered between the bases of the sterile leaves, 

 it is a good practice to insert between the leaves a little rough 

 peat and moss to absorb water and hold it as long as possible. 

 Platyceriums will thrive in almost any kind of open well- 

 drained soil, but to have the foliage grow to full dimensions 

 and give the best architectural effect the mixture must lie 

 open, so that the roots can penetrate it with perfect freedom, 

 a condition in which they seem to delight. Sphagnum moss, 

 fibrous peat or the coarse root masses of some of the Os- 

 mundas, with lumps of charcoal freely interspersed, are sub- 

 stances suitable for older plants. For young pieces rough 

 leaf-mold and chopped moss answer well enough. Old plants 

 of the species which have round sterile leaves are of such a 

 peculiar growth that it is difficult to furnish them with a proper 

 receptacle, but a piece of ordinary wire netting from twenty- 

 four to thirty inches long and about twelve im hes wide will 

 answer. The ends of this should be brought together and 

 fastened with wire in the shape of a cylinder. If one end is 

 obstructed so that the roll when in an upright position will 

 hold a coarse root mixture, large pieces can either he fastened 

 to it on one side or all about it, and it can be hung up to the 

 roof of the conservatory. P. Hillii, P. alcicorne and its variety 



