346 



Garden and Forest. 



[Number 497. 



and makes a good specimen even in a four-inch pot. While 

 curiosities or monstrosities such as the birds, beasts and rep- 

 tiles formed by the Japanese from the rhizomes of Davallia 

 Mariesii cannot be recommended, grown in a more natural 

 manner this species is useful for the cool fernery, though 

 nearlv or quite deciduous. In fact, the Davallias generally are 

 interesting, and D. bullata, D. Canariensis, D. pentaphylla, D. 

 tenuifolia stricta and D. elegans may all be grown to advantage 

 in a temperate house, either as pot-plants or in baskets. The 

 latter method gives a better opportunity to dispose of the 

 straggling rhizomes by pegging down than in the case of those 

 grown in pots. 



Holmesburg, Pa. U . H. Tap hit. 



Gloxinias. 



SEEDS of Gloxinias are usually sown during autumn, though 

 sowing in spring is becoming more common. One of the 

 chief advantages of autumn sowing is that all the plants come 

 into bloom when a suitably low temperature can be maintained. 

 The flowers are susceptible to flagging, and the blooming period 

 is considerably shortened when it occurs during: the hot, dry- 

 ing summer months. It is also somewhat difficult to prevent 

 the plants from becoming drawn if a heavy shading has to be 

 used. The plants are not so apt to suffer from flagging influ- 

 ences so long as sufficient water is provided, but if neglected 

 in this respect disfigurement of the foliage will quickly follow. 



February is a favorable time for sowing the seed, and the 

 temperature of an ordinary propagating house is sufficiently 

 high for starting them. The seed-pans intended for use must 

 be thoroughly clean and dry, so as to insure against any germs 

 of fungus. If this precaution is not taken the fungus will soon 

 make its appearance on the surface of the soil and cut off the 

 little plants shortly after they have started. Much of what is 

 commonly known as damping can be traced to this source, 

 though this is by no means the only source from which it 

 proceeds, and careless watering will often cause it. We do not 

 water on the surface, but supply the moisture from below by 

 keeping the pan standing in a saucer of water. The dangers 

 of damping may be considerably lessened by pricking out the 

 seedlings into fresh soil while they are as small as they can 

 possibly be handled. A good compost for the seeds is com- 

 posed of finely sifted leaf-mold and silver sand in about equal 

 portions. The same compost may be used for the first 

 pricking out, but for subsequent stuffings less sand will be 

 needed, and for the later pottings well-rotted sod soil should 

 be used with about one-third of the compost. We sift this 

 soil also, as the roots are rather fine. 



After the plants are established in three-inch pots we place 

 them in a cold frame, where they grow more freely than in 

 any other place in which we have tried them. Removable 

 shades must, of course, be provided, and light sprinkling twice 

 daily during bright sunshiny days, to maintain a suitable 

 atmosphere. We usually leave the plants in frames until 

 flowering commences, when they are removed in batches to 

 a house where they can be displayed to the best advantage. 

 We choose the coolest house possible for them and provide 

 suitable shading. The poorer varieties are discarded or set 

 aside as soon as they show their character, to prevent good 

 varieties being crossed by them. We save seeds from our 

 own plants, and this is by no means a troublesome matter, as 

 they are produced freely if the flowers are kept dry. 



Tarrytown, N. Y. William Scott. 



Hardy Perennials. 



NOT a few of the perennial species of Coreopsis are quite 

 hardy, and as they flower very freely during a long season 

 they are specially suited for use as border plants. Probably 

 the best-known species in gardens is C. lanceolata ; it is alto- 

 gether hardy and thrives in any good soil, and the flowers 

 continue from early summer until frost. Full-grown plants 

 range from one to two feet in height. The flower-heads are 

 of a shining yellow color, and on well-grown plants measure 

 from two to three inches across. They are produced on long, 

 naked pedicels which add much to the effectiveness of the 

 plants, and are useful for cutting. This Coreopsis produces 

 an abundance of seeds, and young plants are easily raised 

 from them. Sown early in spring the young plants maybe set 

 out into the ground in the early summer and will provide a 

 good supply of flowers in the fall. 



Another satisfactory species for the garden, though but 

 seldom seen, is Coreopsis delphinifolia. This distinct southern 

 species is quite hardy without protection in this vicinity, and 

 grows luxuriantly. The plants reach a height of two feet, and 

 its upright stems are thickly clothed with deep green leaves 



divided into three sessile leaflets. The yellow flower-heads are 

 not quite as large as those of some of the other perennial kinds, 

 but they are produced plentifully. In a rich sandy soil, where 

 there is abundance of light, this plant makes a good border 

 perennial. 



Coreopsis verticellata has slender upright stems and finely 

 cut foliage, with a neat bushy habit. Its height varies from 

 eighteen inches to two feet, and the stems are set off by dark 

 green and finely cut leaves, which are produced in whorls. 

 The deep yellow flower-heads measure about one inch 

 and a half across and are most plentiful during late summer 

 and early fall. C. senifolia, found from North Carolina to 

 Florida, is quite hardy here. The stout, vigorous plants grow 

 to be three feet tall and bear good-sized leaves, which are 

 divided into three entire sessile divisions. The dull yellow 

 flowers are of medium size. 



Coreopsis grandiflora is the best of the perennial species, 

 and where it will grow and thrive it is one of the showiest of 

 the low-growing composite for the border. I regret that it 

 does not thrive here as well as many of the other species. It 

 does not live and has to be grown from seed frequently. I 

 notice that Dr. Asa Gray, in the Synoptical Flora of North 

 America, says that the root is sometimes annual, and this is 

 possibly the reason for its short existence. It resembles C. 

 lanceolata in many of its parts, but the main distinction for 

 garden purposes is that its flowers are much larger and the 

 ray florets are more deeply cut. Other species grown here 

 that are quite hardy and reliable are C. auriculata, C. pubes- 

 cens, C. tripteris and C. rosea. 



The wild Monkshood, Aconitum uncinatum, when planted 

 in a favorable position, makes a splendid mass of dark blue. 

 It is the best plant bearing blue flowers at this time. Aslightlv 

 shaded spot and rather rich, moist soil here suit it best. The 

 stems of this Monkshood are not very stout, and need staking 

 to keep them erect, so that the flowers can be seen to better 

 advantage. Our plants are from four to five feet high, well 

 covered with dark green leaves, and the dark blue flowers are 

 produced in large showy racemes. 



Statice latifolia is again lending its grace and airiness to the 

 border with its broad, spreading panicles of blue flowers. 

 This is the best hardy perennial species in the genus. Large 

 plants make a striking contrast and pleasing effect among 

 more substantial-looking plants. A deep, rich, somewhat moist 

 soil is necessary, and the plants should not be disturbed often. 

 Another species well worth growing is S. elata. Though 

 hardly as pleasing as S. latifolia, it is, nevertheless, a desirable 

 border plant. It is slightly taller and not as graceful or airy, 

 but it has large showy panicles of small blue flowers, and 

 makes a vigorous plant. Besides the use of these delicate 

 sprays for intermixing with other flowers, they are also some- 

 times dried like the " Everlastings." 



Rudbeckia speciosa makes a rich display in the border when 

 large clumps are planted from six to eight yards apart, and the 

 glowing masses of bloom are showy at a considerable dis- 

 tance. The flower-heads of this Cone-flower are a rich orange- 

 yellow with a showy velvety maroon centre, and measure 

 from three to four inches in diameter. They are borne pro- 

 fusely in dense masses. The compact plants are about two 

 feet in height and thickly covered with ovate lanceolale 

 leaves. It thrives best in an open position in light rich soil. 



Veronica longifolia, var. subsessilis, deserves to be classed 

 among choice garden perennials. Like many more of our 

 showy garden plants, it comes from Japan, and is perfectly 

 hardy here. When well grown it attains a height of from three 

 to four feet and its stems are terminated with large dense 

 spikes of deep purple-blue flowers, which make it effective. 

 V. Virginica is a tall-growing species and a native plant. Well- 

 established plants are conspicuous at this time with their large 

 terminal spikes of white flowers. 



Harvard Botanic Garden, Cambridge, Mass. Robert Cameron. 



Rock Garden Notes. 



ONE of the handsomest plants on the rockery now is the 

 Mexican Hunnemannia fumarisefolia. The large yellow 

 flowers are not unlike the Californian Poppy, but have more 

 substance, and the flowers last several days after being cut. 

 The plants are not entirely hardy here, though they come 

 through some winters in good condition, and some half- 

 decayed leaves thrown over the roots help them to winter 

 over. If seed is started in the fall it should have the benefit 

 of a warm house ; spring-sown seeds delay the flowering 

 period until the beginning of July. 



Owing, I suppose, to the moist season, the varieties of 

 Achimenes have done exceptionally well this summer. Care 



